In Bury St Edmunds: the loop to the west

June 28, 2022

We’re ending up getting a well-rounded view of the land around Bury St Edmunds. For the past few days we’ve been riding through the low chalk uplands to the south and east, and when we leave here tomorrow we’ll head north dropping into the fens just a few miles out of town. Today we’re heading west toward Cambridge, only 30 miles away by the most direct way. We’re not going as far as Cambridge of course but have plotted a loop that turns back just short of Newmarket, famed as the birthplace and global center of thoroughbred horse racing.

The first ten miles west of town have a similar feel to the east and south - rolling hills, modest grades, wide views, minimal traffic as long as you pick your routes carefully. Toward the far end of the today’s loop as it nears Newmarket there’s a change though. There the landscape is dominated by large horse pastures and stud farms and the character of the villages seems different and less full of surprises - the housing is generally newer, everything is well maintained, and it all feels more prosperous than further west. We’re less than 20 miles from Cambridge here and between that and the thoroughbred industry I imagine there’s a lot of money floating around.

A very nice outing - how can one complain about forty miles of nice views, quiet roads and modest gradients- but it’s just a bit tame. If we lived here I’m pretty sure I’d spend more time in the other directions.

On rides like this it’s pretty easy to let the mind wander with not as much to distract you; and by the time I’m heading back to Bury work is on my mind and I start keeping an eye out for a pub so I can get on with my research project.

Leaving town to the west. We’ve only been on the road a couple of miles and already we’re out in the country.

We’re riding NCN 51 today, the long distance route that runs from Felixstowe on the coast west through Ipswitch, Bury St Edmonds, Cambridge, and on to Oxford. This is at least the third of our rides that’s ridden parts of this route.

We’ve only got Rachael with us for the first half of the ride today. Not long after leaving home I hear an unrepeatable oath from behind me. She’s forgotten to bring her next antibiotic dose with her, so after ten miles she turns back so she’ll keep on schedule.

Another beautiful day. Still windy and partly cloudy, but without the threat of rain.

The All Saints Church of Gazely dates to the early 14th century. So many of the old churches we’ve passed in Suffolk have this same appearance with a squarish tower that looks like a fortification.

In Dullingham, at the westernmost point in the ride. Even the oldest houses like this are generally well maintained and have newish thatched roofs. I imagine there are a lot of restoration projects like the one we saw yesterday here so close to Cambridge.

A lot of the land near Newmarket looks like this with large pastures, wooden fences, and horses off at the far end of the field. None seem interested in apples, or are even very approachable because almost everywhere there’s a tall hedge hiding the property from the road.

Here’s a newer church cut from a different template: Our Lady & St Philip Neri Church, in Kirtling.

Eastward bound again, the ride gets more interesting with every mile. Another castle-like Saint Mary’s rises ahead, this one in Lidgate.

And then there’s this spectacular oddity: St Nicolas Church in Little Saxham. It’s the first we’ve seen like this, but there are quite a few round tower churches here in East Anglia - by far the greatest concentration of them in England.

An offering from Greene King, the brewery in Bury only a few blocks from our apartment. Seems like I should test them out before leaving town.

We end the day by walking over to Rustico, a new Italian restaurant in town in a decidedly un-Italian setting.

We enjoy a fine meal at Rustico. In addition to this excellent antipasti plate our mains (sea bass and oxtail pappardelle) were both excellent.

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Ride stats today: 42 miles, 2,100’; for the tour: 466miles, 20,400’

Today's ride: 42 miles (68 km)
Total: 466 miles (750 km)

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Jen RahnHi you two!

I've been a slacker keeping up with your journal and had missed Rachael's sinus infection.

Hope you're feeling better!
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2 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Jen RahnThanks for checking in, Jen. Hope the Grumby clan are all healthy and happy. Is Ron off on his bike bike adventure yet?
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2 years ago

Jen RahnThanks for asking!

Motorcycle adventure begins 7/12 and goes through 7/27 or so.

After that, he and I will take our bicycles with us on a camping trip to Gifford Pinchot and then Ron and Bruce have Oregon Outback penciled in on the calendar for September.
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2 years ago