In Bridport: the Jurassic Coast

September 3, 2022

The weather really does look like it’s taking a hard turn for the worse. Today should stay overcast but dry, but with a 15-20 mph south wind blowing in off the channel. Beyond that though, every day until we catch the ferry for France promises rain and 15-30 mph winds, as well as several days of threatened thunderstorms.

We discussed this over dinner last night, and this morning seeing that nothing had changed overnight we came to two decisions. First, it doesn’t sound appealing to bike through this. I stewed on this off and on during a restless night: the Friday night crowds on the street beneath our window didn’t finally quiesce until after 1:30, and by 4:30 the sea gulls woke up and woke me along with them. I discussed my thoughts with Rachael, we adjusted our bookings, and the upshot is that our bicycle tour of Britain essentially ends here instead of in Plymouth. Details to come.

Second, if we only end up with one dry day this week and aren’t going to be biking along the coast after all, we should be taking a hike today instead of the bike ride I had mapped out. Rachael, who’s coming to enjoy hiking nearly as much as biking lately quickly agreed, so I mapped out a walk for us - an out and back to the coast and then a walk east along the coast on the South West Coast Path.

I mapped the route out to the highest point along the coast within reasonable walking distance - roughly 12 miles. It was only later that I realized that we were hiking to Golden Cap, a National Trust property that at 191 meters is the highest point on England’s southern coastline; and was reminded that this stretch of coastline is part of the famously beautiful Jurassic Coast, England’s only natural World Heritage Site.

As a brief thumbnail description of the hike: it begins with a flat two mile walk from Bridport to West Bay, a fishing/resort village on the coast at the mouth of the small River Brit. From there we walk northeast along the South West Coast Path. It’s a roller coaster, starting with a hill climb/descent to Eype Beach at the mouth of the small River Eype. Then, another hill climb, this one twice as high and three times as steep before dropping to Seatown Beach at the mouth of the small Rver Winniford. Finally, a third climb, half again as high as the second, to the crown of Golden Cap.

Then walk back the other way.

Or, an even briefer summary: five steep climbs, followed by five steep descents. Hard on the knees, in case you have knee issues.

On the way back, we stopped in West Bay for refreshments (one half of the team had a pale ale, the other sparkling water) as a way to recover somewhat and to kill some time before walking back to town where we had dinner at Mercato’s, an Italian market that also serves up nice pizzas, salads, and wine.

By the time we made it back to the hotel we’d put in 15 miles, the longest hike I’ve taken in since forever. The first 12 miles were fine but by the time we made it back to the room I felt like I was on a death march, barely shuffling one foot in front of the other. Rachael was kind enough to say she was plenty tired too, but then this is really only a few miles longer than many of her walks.

At the end of the day, three things are true. First, we made the best use of the day. We’re both so glad that we decided on a hike, a decision we made only this morning.

Secondly, today at least I think I’ve just seen about the prettiest coastline of my lifetime. It’s an astonishing area for its sheer geographic beauty as well as for its raw, elemental feel. As tired and achy as I feel tonight and expect to feel in the morning, I wouldn’t trade today’s experience for much of anything.

And third, I’m exhausted. I’ll throw in a few captions for context, but mostly I’ll leave it as a photo gallery to help us remember and relive this exceptional day.

We were slow to get out of town because we had to wade through the crowds here to celebrate and participate in the Bridport Hat Festival. I’ve never seen such an absurdly flamboyant collection of hats walking around.

Starting the first climb, from West Bay. That’s Rachael ahead, stepping out. We’ll meet at the top, or when she picks me up on her way back if I don’t make it that far.

Oh, wait. She held up long enough to take a shot of me before moving ahead.

The view inland to Bridport. Too far away to see all the funny hats.

Dropping down from the first climb to Eype Beach, and looking ahead to the day’s second climb, up Doghouse Hill.

Looking forward to the very steep climb up Doghouse Hill. Note the suspended fence that has lost its footing. We’ve passed signs all along warning us to keep well back from the cliffs.

Know your sheep! This is an easy one because its colors are so distinctive: the Badger-faced Welsh Mountain Sheep. There are two varieties. This is Torddu, distinguished by its white fleece and black belly and facial markings. The other, Torwen, has the color pattern reversed.

Looking down to Seatown and up to the Golden Cap.

The climb up Golden Cap begins with a walk through a bracken forest.

Still climbing Golden Cap. The summit is on the other side of the scrubby oak woods ahead.

The English Channel. It’s a dry but wild day, with 15-25 mile winds testing our balance all day long.

The view west from the summit of Golden Cap. Views in all directions are enormous and breathtaking. The 20+ mph winds contributed to the effect.

Looking inland across Dorset, an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.

We got a bit of sun on the way back, so a whole new set of photos was called for.

Chesil Beach again. The protruding pier is at West Bay, where we’ll turn inland if we make it that far.

There’s that hanging fence again. I couldn’t decide which perspective I liked best so I included them both.

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Hiking stats today: 15 miles, 2,500’

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Gregory GarceauI've always believed a little hiking makes for a more well-rounded bike tour. This hike proves my point--to the extreme. Holy mackerel, that's beautiful.
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2 years ago

Graham FinchI lived in Dorset for a while in my thrities and loved cycling in that wonderful part of the UK around Bournemouth. You seem to have skirted my regular ride - a short ferry ride from Sandbanks, then south to Swanage and beyond... sometimes to Durdle Door.
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2 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Graham FinchOh, then I’ll bet you’ve seen Puddletown too then, you dog! You’ve probably even taken a pint there. I’m so envious.

I’ve been keeping a mental list of places I’d like to make it back to if we return some year. Dorset’s high on it.
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2 years ago