Leeds to Castleford

April 29, 2022

on path beside the River Aire

It's another early start and I'm wheeling my bike outside into bright sunshine at 7:00 and just as I do so another guest walks out and asks about my tour. It turns out that thirtysomething Nathan is about to embark on a round-the-world trip on wheels himself.

After a few minutes, we agree to get a coffee and he leads me to his neighborhood, just over the river. He's letting out his apartment while away (anticipated to be three years) and has to meet his tenant and hand over the keys. There's a cafe there that he frequents.

We have to wait outside the arcade cafe for 10 minutes while the staff get things in order, then at 8:00 we get a couple of seats in the window and have brekkie and a decent coffee. Nathan has got his route planned out and I advise that three years is a long time to be riding. I've found that after a few months things can become a bit stale, with the constant routine of moving on undermining any sense of adventure. He'll just have to work it out himself.

From the cafe it's just a short stroll to get on the riverside path that leads southeast, following the River Aire as it wiggles towards Yorkshire's coast. The sun is out for a change, but my jacket stays on as I pedal along the flat path, slowly leaving the urban sights of swanky apartments and old warehouse walls covered in graffiti. A few people are on their way to work, but soon enough it's all very leafy and there's just me.

Remnants of Yorkshire's incredible industrial heritage are evident here and there. I pass red brick Thwaites Mill and stop to take a snap. Access to what is now a museum is across the river and it doesn't look to be open just yet.

There are trails either side of the River Aire and at times it's not clear which one is be best. I follow one sign for a bike path, but it takes me along a grassy bank, while across the river I can see it's nicely paved route. At least the mud track is exposed to the sun and is dry.

Crossing over the River Aire on Skelton Grange Bridge

At a set of locks I cross back over the Aire and get talking to Jack... I should say he starts talking to me. He's a volunteer armed with a bunch of pamphlets with the aim of raising awareness and funds for the commercial waterways and tow paths that have been left neglected - the group being Canal & River Trust. He's got a wi-fi connected device and I donate a fiver. I can't imagine he's raised too much today as there is hardly anyone around.

The day heats up and my jacket comes off as the path veers along rough tracks, some smoother than others, until I end up on a busy road leading to Castleford. When planning I knew getting into the town was going to prove a problem as it was hard to find the exact route of a path. It just disappeared.

After crossing over the river I head to the east side of town as that's where there are a few buildings that look interesting.

Castleford

One building is now a private children's nursery, but it was built as a first school. The front elevation has two tiled panels that I really like - the matt glaze being that archetypal green that was popular in the 1930s. The tiles were made by Poole Pottery down on the south coast and designed by sculptor John Skeaping, who also did various animal figures for Wedgewood, as well as Poole. There doesn't appear to be anyone taking any notice, so I pose in front of them after setting up my tripod.

Designed by Oliver Hill, the building might not look much now, but it has elements that were modern at the time, such as metal windows and a flat, curved roof that follows the gentle line of the rear elevation.

I keep riding east, then have a small climb to get to a group of buildings that C. F. A. Voysey designed between 1904 and 1907. A row of 19 homes got built first and a year later came a Miners' Institute, which soon got turned in a pub, named The Rising Sun. At the back is memorial Hall that has become a restaurant. As I take a snap of the latter, a youngster walking along with her mother asks why I'm taking a photo of it. It doesn't look very special now, with the general surroundings looking need of some TLC, but I tell her it's a beautiful thing.

Across the road is a popular chippy and the smell is too good, so I order a portion of fish and chips and eat them sat in the sun on a bench.

(former) Three Lanes End First School (1939-40) with Poole tiles designed by John Skeaping

One of 19 homes on Whitewood Terrace designed by C. F. A. Voysey (1904)

Yet another cheap charity shop shirt that I buy

I make my way into town, cycling past a Burberry factory that comes as a surprise - I thought the British icon's manufacturing had all gone to China.

Castleford centre is basically just one pedestrian street and it's a busy place on a sunny, Friday afternoon. There are a couple of charity shops and a summer shirt with pineapples printed on it is cheap, so it goes in my pannier.

I sit outside a cafe in the sunshine and enjoy a coffee as the world goes by. It gives me time to ponder my next move. From here the plan is to cycle south-ish, but there's no obvious cycle path to ride along and the road didn't appear to be great when i looked on Street View. My early start this morning hits me and tiredness gets a firm grip and taking a train home strikes me as a great idea. It's not very far to the local station.

Using my Senior Railcard, the ticket costs me 33 quid - it's a return, as I reckon I can use the return section in the near future and the price is only an extra couple of quid.

Once on the train, I call Dave to let him know I'm on my way back and agree to meet him at the pub in Lincoln around 5:30. It's best to quit while you're ahead.

Today's ride: 30 km (19 miles)
Total: 180 km (112 miles)

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