Semur-en-Auxois to Avallon: King Arthur's home town?

October 16, 2011

WEATHER: Sunny and warm

After a light breakfast at the hotel, we picked up some small quiches at a nearby boulangerie to take along for emergency rations. Since many restaurants are closed on Sunday, we weren't sure whether we would find a place to get lunch enroute to Avallon in the tiny villages we would pass through. The roads were quiet, not too hilly and not too flat, and the scenery was very pleasant--mostly rolling pastureland and still no vineyards. We were not yet in the grape growing regions of Burgundy.

The small village of Maison-Dieu was supposed to have a restaurant, but as we cycled the single street, it did not appear, and the place was completely deserted on this sunny Sunday. We found a stone bench in a strange miniscule graveled 'park' near the town hall and ate our quiches in the sunshine accompanied by several friendly pigeons.

After traversing more rolling terrain, we arrived in Avallon about 2:00, checked into our hotel, and then set off on foot to see the city and find a snack that would hold us until dinnertime. The old town is quite picturesque with cobbled pedestrianized streets and traditional stone buildings. It was a beautiful afternoon, and we sat outside on a cafe terrace happily eating ice cream and watching the weekend activity. It felt so right to be cycling in France again, and so far Burgundy had exceeded our expectations. Afterwards we walked to the other end of the old town passing through the 11th century Tour d'Horloge and out onto the ramparts above the meandering river Cousin where we would be cycling the next day.

Looking up at the old part of Avallon from the valley of Le Cousin.

We were lucky to find the restaurant Chez Manu for dinner. They made a point of being open on Sunday and Monday nights, when most other places were closed. Their four course menu was an excellent value: tomato tatin to start, well-sauced fish and vegetables for the plat, three good cheeses, and a superior tarte aux pommes for dessert. We tried a white burgundy with dinner--Macon Villages chardonnay--and were very satisfied.

Today's ride: 43 km (27 miles)
Total: 167 km (104 miles)

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