October 25, 2011
Pierrelatte to Vaison-la-Romaine: ancient history
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WEATHER: rain (but not as much as predicted), wind, some sun
Once again we woke up to rain pouring down, but luckily it diminished to showers just after we started off on the bikes. Getting out of Pierrelatte proved to be strangely difficult due to one-way streets and unexpected dead ends. We eventually found our way across the rail line and proceeded rapidly to the bridge over the Rhone, where we encountered a 'route barrée' sign. Apparently the bridge was completely closed for repairs, even for velos. Several workers kindly suggested that we could make our way north on a rough, unpaved track along the river, under a TGV bridge, and eventually to another bridge several kilometres to the north. This and a series of very minor roads brought us back to meet our original route.
Because of the delay due to the detour along the river, our only lunch option was the tiny village of Suze la Rousse, where the only game in town turned out to be a bar with a few tables in the back. Their menu du jour was fine, and we enjoyed watching a family with two well-behaved young girls at the table next to us. It was obviously a treat for the girls to be taken out to lunch, and they shared a first course of charcuterie with enthusiasm, before tucking into their main course of pork with mashed potatoes. The girls were out of school during this holiday period leading up to All Saints Day (La Toussaint) on November 1.
After lunch the route was more hilly, but there were sunny breaks in the clouds to compensate. The last five kilometres were generally uphill, and we were glad to reach our lovely chambre d'hote, Les Tilleuls d'Elisée, perfectly located in Vaison-la-Romaine, where we would stay for two nights. (http://www.vaisonchambres.info) We were greeted warmly, and Les Tilleuls turned out to be one of the nicest places we stayed on our trip. Our room had a sitting area with two large windows, one looking out on Mont Ventoux and the other with a view of the medieval village and the ruined chateau at the top of the hill.
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Vaison-la-Romaine is an amazing place, with some of the most extensive 2000 year old Roman ruins in Europe on one side of the river, and a 1000 year old medieval village meandering up the hill on the other side. Our chambre d'hote was only a short walk away from the Roman ruins and then a bit further along to the newer centre-ville, which we set off to explore in the late afternoon sunshine.
We passed the impressive ruins, which we planned to visit the following day, and right on the main square found an organic restaurant, O'Natur'elles, run by a charming mother and daughter team. In our experience organic restaurants are rare in France, and we are always curious to try them. Our meal was excellent. After an amuse bouche of brocolli foam, and a first course of layered omelet and vegetables, Al had duck breast à l'orange and Eva had salmon in parchment for the main course. Dessert was tarte aux pommes for Al and chestnut fondant for Eva. The demi-pichet of Côtes du Rhone was also organic.
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As we exited the restaurant, Al remarked that they must have washed down the square since it was wet. After we left the shelter of the awning, we realized that it was in fact raining lightly. Within half a block the heavens opened and we scampered almost a kilometre through an increasing downpour and growing puddles back to the chambre d'hote. Since it had been sunny when we had gone out, we had neglected to bring along jackets and umbrellas and we got thoroughly soaked.
Today's ride: 54 km (34 miles)
Total: 484 km (301 miles)
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