Chazelle-l'Echo to Arnay le Duc: salt and pepper

October 19, 2011

WEATHER: Cloudy, cooler

It was raining when we woke up, but by the time we finished breakfast and were ready to go, the rain had stopped and there was no more for the whole day. Our ride today was only 30 kilometres through gently rolling countryside-much shorter and easier than the day before. We immediately passed through the tiny village of Chazelle l'Echo and then a series of other very small villages and reached Arnay le Duc by lunchtime. Arnay le Duc, with a population of only 1600 people, is yet another picturesque destination in Burgundy, with historic buildings dating back to the middle ages.

It seemed like all the cattle looked at us carefully, but not all of the sheep did.

We cycled up the quiet narrow main street of the town looking for a lunch spot, and a friendly local directed us to Le Dauphiné down from the main street and situated on a busier road. It was just after 12:00 and there were still tables available in the large dining room. By 12:30 every place was taken and the two waitresses were actually running. This was obviously a local crowd, office staff along with highway crews and construction workers. While we enjoyed our menu du jour, we noticed a continuous stream of large trucks zooming past the windows fronting the busy road. We couldn't figure it out because this road was not a highway; it just bypassed the centre of town. We asked the waitress and she told us that the trucks regularly take this road in order to avoid paying a toll on the nearby autoroute. When we reached the cheese course, the waitress wheeled over a cart with about a dozen cheeses of which we could choose four, and a couple of men at the next table volubly advised us which ones were the best.

We found our chambre d'hote, Closerie de Lavigne (http://atelierdelacloserie.com/) in a 17th century building on the main street, and were welcomed by the owner, Francine Lavigne. Our room was colourful and comfortable and the brand new white bathroom was lovely. Francine and her husband, Jean-Pierre, had retired from high-powered jobs in Paris, and she had embarked on a second career as a raku potter. They had fallen in love with this house in Arnay le Duc, and she took us around the corner to her charming studio, converted from a garage, with a small garden and plenty of room to park our bikes. We enjoyed touring the studio and having a look at her attractive and creative pieces. Unfortunately, it would have been impossible to manage any of them on our bicycles!

12th century Tour de la Motte Forte in the old part of Arnay-le-Duc.

Afterwards, we went to the nearby museum, Maison Régionale des Arts de la Table, housed in a 17th century hospital building and the only tableware museum in France. This month they featured condiment containers through the centuries, more different types of salt and pepper shakers than anyone could possibly imagine--mustard pots, vinegar and oil cruets etc.--a curious and quirky display. We then walked up the main road past the Tour de la Motte Forte from the 12th century as well as the chateau des princes de Condé and the church of St. Laurent, built in 1092 and enlarged in 1288. There was a lot of history in this small town!

The variety of shapes used for salt and pepper shakers was...curious.

Assuming that this style was wildly popular at one time...well, what can you say...

That evening we went back to Le Dauphiné for dinner, and in contrast to lunchtime, we were the only people in the dining room. The trucks were still booming by every minute or two on the busy road.

Today's ride: 30 km (19 miles)
Total: 296 km (184 miles)

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