November 13, 2011
Around Aigues-Mortes: no cycling
WEATHER: SUNNY!
We woke up to completely clear sunny skies, perfect for a day of exploration and photography in Aigues-Mortes. Our room at Hermitage de Saint-Antoin was small, but bright and cheerful, with one window looking out at the rampart walls and another in the glass door leading to a tiny terrace above the inner courtyard garden. Breakfast downstairs was a treat: a huge plateful of cut-up fruit and a selection of interesting breads, including some delicious whole grain varieties, along with locally made jams and preserves. Our host was an Australian who had lived in France for many years, and was strangely enough, a Bike Friday enthusiast. He had researched them thoroughly and was just about to buy one for himself, so he had been quite excited to see our bikes when we arrived yesterday afternoon. After some pleasant cycle-touring conversation at breakfast, we headed off to see the sights and walk the ramparts.
The walls surrounding the rectangular centre of Aigues-Mortes are about a mile (1.6 km) in length with several gates topped with towers. Since the fortifications were never attacked, the walls are in pristine condition almost eight centuries after they were constructed. This settlement was built by King Louis IX (St. Louis) at a time when the kingdom of France had only this one swampy, malarial, silty access to the Mediterranean. It was the port from which two crusades were launched, but the canal leading to deep water was continually silted up from run-off from the Rhone river and had to be dredged out constantly. Nothing much grew here to feed the townspeople, but the salt (fleur de sel) still harvested nearby, was an important trade commodity. About 150 years after the fortifications were completed, the kingdom of France annexed Marseilles, which became the Mediterranean port, and Aigues-Mortes (literally 'dead waters') was forgotten. Nobody else wanted it, so the fort was never attacked.
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In perfect sunny conditions, we spent several hours, with audioguides, leisurely touring the entire perimeter along the top of the wall and going through the many different towers. Even on a Sunday of a long weekend, it was not crowded at all. From the top of the wall we had spectacular views in all directions, including down into the walled gardens of the houses in the centre. All around, the countryside was completely flat--the Camargue extended to the east and south as far as the eye could see. Our impression was that this site was as impressive in its own way as the larger walled city of Carcassonne, but not nearly so well known.
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We did find crowds as soon as we descended in search of lunch. Every restaurant around the sunny central square was full of people, who apparently come for the day from Montpellier and Nimes only to eat. We found a small place on a side street with an empty table, and one waitress who was literally running to cover about thirty tables inside and outside along the lane. We didn't mind waiting, and had a good lunch of grilled red peppers to start, and then filet of fish with basil sauce and ratatouille.
After lunch we walked outside the walls through the part of Aigues-Mortes that stretches to the north and east along the surrounding canals. It was a very pleasant afternoon for a stroll in the warm sunshine. There was no wind and we had to keep reminding ourselves that it was November 13!
In the evening we walked back to the square for dinner, and everything looked completely different. The town was deserted, and most of the restaurants were closed. The day-trippers were all gone. We had a mediocre meal with indifferent service at one of the few places that were open.
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