To San Miniato - The Tuscan sun when it's in our faces really shows ...... - CycleBlaze

May 16, 2023

To San Miniato

It is all part of the game but not the best part. Once again, the weather forecast was unsettled rainy  conditions and unfortunately it was raining as we began to arrange our departure from Pistoia. We looked at forecasts and  at the skies for inspiration but in the end  getting  wet riding our bikes is something we really do not enjoy. Having subjected ourselves to these conditions in the past - we know - for us they are best avoided. We will happily accept the fact that we are fair weather tourers.

Scott put his  transportation logistical brain to use and we organized a revised routing plan to our next stop of San Miniato.  Really, using the train system in Italy is easy as there is usually a trainline nearby that can get you within striking distance of your destination. Today our train took us to San Miniato Basso - a mere four kilometres from San Miniato.

A small vegetable market has set up in the small piazza beside our hotel. The weather is likely not the best for business.
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Waiting out a passing shower under cover.
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The train station in Pistoia. Look at the blue sky! A sucker hole? - an appropriate term that I learned on Cycleblaze.
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ann and steve maher-wearyNever heard of this expression but I like it! Thanks
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1 year ago
Rachael AndersonWhat an appropriate term for it. We actually got lucky yesterday and we’re able to get our ride in during a break in the weather since there were no good train options. I agree with you about riding in the rain.
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1 year ago

We held off departing from our hotel while waiting for a rain shower to pass before cycling to the station only to sees patches of blue skies!?!?  Did we make the right call? San Miniato is only about 40 kilometres to the south of us but to get there  we had to take a train  east to a station outside Florence and then connect to a train taking us back west. The route is a big ¨V¨ shape. Each trip was about 30 minutes long. The trains were older style regional cars with only one car available for bikes. We did not discover this until our second connection when an attendant asked us leave the car and go to the back of the train. Here we found a  dingy car with a bike symbol on the door. Inside, there was a separate compartment with two steps up that had a bike rack not really suitable for our small wheel bikes or those with panniers. There was also a single bench seat that was already taken by another passenger without a bike but who seemed to want to be by himself. We used a bungie cord to secure our bikes and stood near our bikes for the short trip.

Arriving in  Miniato Basso, the sun was shining but dark clouds were on the horizon. We rode the final kilometres up a steep uphill to San Miniato  and settle into a cafe with outdoor seating under a canopy in the town square. We were early for our hotel check-in and this was a fine spot to enjoy our coffee and watch the traffic go by. Almost immediately  the rain began again.  We watched a tour group of a half dozen roadies go by and we were happy to be here  and dry.  

Looking north toward our planned cycle route through the hills.
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The small piazza in San Miniato looking up toward the defensive observation tower.
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A group roadies that appeared to be on a tour braved the damp conditions.
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Oratorio dei Santi Sebastiano e Rocco is a very small church built in 1524. It is located in the centre of San Miniato right across from where we stopped for coffee.
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Upon entering the church, this elderly woman grabbed Pat by the arm and led her to a small room at the back of the church. She spoke to Pat in rapid Italian and of course we had no idea what would happen next.
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She wanted Pat to ring the church bell!
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Our hotel was just a bit further up the road.  After storing our bikes, we bundled up for the unseasonably cool temperatures and headed out to see this important historical center.

An information sign about San Miniato states that, ¨The City of San Miniato is located in the heart of Tuscany is also known as the city of XX (20 in roman numerals) miles  since it is located within this radius from all the most important Tuscan cities.¨ The city dates back to 713 and thrived as a medieval bastion where Frederick II built his castle in 1218. It now has a number of large churches and is an important stage on the Via Franigena pilgrim route.

The fort and church roof (Chiesa della Santissima Annunziata) in San Miniato.
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The front façade of Chiesa della Santissima Annunziata built in the mid 1500`s.
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Inside the church looking up at the dome and alter.
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The Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta e San Genesio, the cathedral of San Miniato, was built in the 12th century,
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The ceiling is very intricate and survived bombing during the war.
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Another picture of the center section.
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The defensive tower was built in the early 1200`s and was part of a complex defensive system at the highest part of San Miniato. It was destroyed by the Germans in 1944 and rebuilt in 1958 to the exact historic specifications.
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The views from the tower base looking down on San Miniato and surrounding area.
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Looking in another direction and thinking how great this would look with some sun!
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Having completed a nice tour of San Miniato we headed out for dinner to the highly reviewed  Trattoria  Canapone in the town`s piazza. Our host Pablo also suggested that it was a great place - but then he is biased as the restaurant is part of his family`s business. It was excellent. We sat alone inside where there were only a few tables available.  Soon after, a couple from Florida joined us and we had an evening of great food, wine and conversation. It was also a special celebration for Scott. Lucky guy!

Pat`s Potato ravioli with salmon and asparagus.
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Rachael AndersonThat looks delicious!
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1 year ago
KAREN JONESHappy belated birthday, Scott!
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1 year ago
Scott`s Scamerita escalope on mixed vegetables. Chianti reduction with caramelized onions.
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Scott AndersonLooks like a perfect ride plan for a wet day. Better luck tomorrow!
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1 year ago

Today's ride: 4 km (2 miles)
Total: 290 km (180 miles)

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Scott AndersonI remember San Miniato! It’s the only time I’ve ever been doored. The guy that opened it right in front of me claimed it wasn’t his fault because he couldn’t see me, pointing at his broken rear view mirror.
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1 year ago