Yesterday was our day to be tourists and take our time exploring the road up to Tubac. Today is all about the miles. We have a metric century on tap with a good amount of climbing. It should be good training for some more big climbs we might do.
With that much ground to cover, you'd think one would want to get an early start, but by the time we get it together it's after 10:00, per usual. That big bed was way too comfortable.
The route starts with a nice easy warm-up starting out on the Rio Rico bike path and Pendleton Drive. We make a critical right turn on East Ruby Road to cross the railroad tracks. Thanks to Kelly Iniguez for the intel here. I was planning to continue straight towards Patagonia Lake until she clued me in about the ride she did with our friend Hank Holz here two years ago. Hank rode the way I was going to go for 10 miles until it faded to a rough dirt track and he had to turn back. Another routing gaffe like that would not be good for marital harmony.
View of the mountains in Mexico from the bike path
Keith AdamsNothing like the voice of experience to help you through unfamiliar territory, is there? Reply to this comment 1 year ago
Janice BranhamTo Keith AdamsFor sure Keith. It's one of the wonderful things I appreciate about CB, the way folks take the time to share that experience. Reply to this comment 1 year ago
At Beyerville we turn northeast on Arizona 82 and the fun starts as we begin climbing up towards Patagonia. Traffic is moderate and almost all of the drivers are patient and generous with space when the shoulder narrows. It's more comfortable sharing the road here compared to some of the roads we've ridden in Tucson. Kinney Road comes to mind.
Then there's the one guy who lays on his horn as he pulls around us. My friend Karen Karabell who teaches the Cycling Savvy course has a philosophy about cranky drivers that I find helpful. As she told Kea Wilson for her article for Strong Towns about How to Bike on a Stroad, “Think of them as barking dogs. It’s territorial. But you’re far more likely to get hurt by a driver who doesn’t notice you."
At the site of the historic John Ward ranch three miles south of Patagonia, the Telles Family created a shrine to pray for their sons who were in the military in World War II. The sons survived, and the townspeople of Patagonia still keep the candles lit.
Patagonia is a charming town with a history of mining and ranching since before the Civil War. It's small, with a population of 793 as of 2021, but has plenty of services - two markets, several restaurants, a bakery, library, museum, dispensary, and a hotel. The Paton Center for Hummingbirds is a big draw for birders. We stop by there briefly but I guess it's too early in the afternoon to see the hummers. Also, I'm not all that patient a birdwatcher and we're antsy to keep going.
The Stage Stop Inn sits on the site of the old station for the 1858 Butterfield Overland Mail route that extended from Tipton Missouri to San Francisco.
The New Mexico and Arizona Railroad that connected the Southern Pacific line from Benson AZ to Nogales Mexico came through Patagonia in the 1880s. By the turn of the century the mining in Patagonia was so successful that the railroad made three stops a day here.
Just north of town we turn east on Harshaw Road. Thanks to Scott Anderson for the advice on this one. It's a lovely quiet road that moves in and out of Coronado National Forest, interspersed with stretches of private ranch lands. Where the pavement ends, the dirt road is still pretty good and we press on.
Harshaw Road is all up, a good chunk of our climbing for today. The grade is moderate and the scenery is worth the work.
While we take a break for lunch a couple of riders pass us on gravel bikes. I would love to keep going and explore what's further on up the road. Just based on the Meetup ride posts I've seen from the Greater Arizona Bicycling Association, there is a lot of interesting territory we could cover here on low traffic unpaved roads. Whenever we come back to Tucson, I'm bringing my gravel bike.
The ride back down is glorious. As we've gazed at Mount Wrightson from different angles all day I imagine how native peoples, missionaries, Spanish officers and colonists have steered by this same landmark over the centuries.
Shady spot to sit for a while and break out the sandwiches
Bill ShaneyfeltNeat how the sycamore trees are so ghostly white this time of year!
http://southwestdesertflora.com/WebsiteFolders/All_Species/Platanaceae/Platanus%20wrightii,%20Arizona%20Sycamore.html Reply to this comment 1 year ago
Janice BranhamTo Bill ShaneyfeltThey were positively glowing in the light. Thanks for the reference Bill. It was interesting to read about the wildlife this tree supports. Reply to this comment 1 year ago
Back on Arizona 82 as we continue mostly downhill back to the Bnb, I can see Barry is itching to open it up and encourage him to take off. Ride your own ride, baby.
Enjoying the towering cliffs while coasting back down the highway.
At the turn a half-mile from the end, I calculate my total mileage will be 63.5 by the time I get there. Hmmm, that's less than two miles short of my age. I can't let the opportunity pass by to hit that mark so early in the year.
Whoop whoop! I pedaled past the metric century mark to another milestone for the year.
We check off one more Santa Cruz County town with dinner at Ragazzi Italian restaurant in Nogales AZ, just north of the border. It's the only not-Mexican and not-fast food place open on a Tuesday night and I don't have high expectations but its excellent - wonderful service and food.
