September 5, 2021
Day Ten - Inverness to Fort William
Racing to beat the rain (I didn't)
Reader, I must apologise, this entry is being written almost a month in the future! Hopefully photos taken and my memory won't fail me too badly in recalling what happened.
By the looks of things I did pretty well getting up that morning, as my kit was mostly packed and ready to go by 8AM. I'd decided I would listen to another BBC "You're Dead To Me" comedy/history hybrid sort of podcast. Learning how bizarre the UK electoral system centuries ago, including different voting rights per borough, while riding was interesting. I still think it could be vastly improved mind.
According to Strava I managed to set off by 8:20AM. My earliest departure on this trip yet?
I quickly got out of Inverness and on to the road running parallel to Loch Ness which was to my right. This is the road I'd previously travelled on in the opposite direction with friends back in 2019. There was a cycle track to my left but it seemed like the sort that would slow me down, so I didn't bother. The views of Loch Ness were picturesque, despite the looming grey clouds.
At one point I stopped and enjoyed the silence surrounding me. There's probably a case to be made for not listening to podcasts and music at least on part of this trip!
I eventually got to the top of the climb (it's mostly uphill from Inverness), there were a few steep sections but the most part it was pretty easy going. I of course took some photos at the top. It was pretty similar to the last time I was there, rather bleak but appealing views, lots of clouds, and a strong wind. I was actually afraid the bike might get blown over whilst leant against a road sign! Unlikely given the weight, but still.
Before the main descent started, there was some relatively flat riding which was enjoyable with the small lochs to my right. I even saw someone flying a drone around there. Last time I was around these parts I was carrying a drone myself.
The descent in to Fort Augustus was not fun. That experience days ago on the descent from Bealach na Ba with the flat tyre had not aided my riding confidence. I had several what I'd call "Phantom loss of traction" moments. Essentially on the descent, there's a split second where you question whether you've still got traction, despite little if any inidication that that is actually case. Maybe Scottish roads need to be less smooth! I think that happened two or three times on what was a rather steep descent. Given what had happened previously with the rim tape overheating and given I was still on medical tape being used as rim tape I decided it was prudent to stop a few times to let the rims cool down. I got down the descent without incident, fortunately. I then saw a couple about to make the climb in the other direction - I wished them good luck, it's rather steep going that way!
Once I arrived in Fort Augustus I couldn't help but drop in to the holiday park I'd stayed at two years ago. Their sign at the front of the premesis still had a sign with a picture of a tent, yet their site claimed they no longer allowed camping. I probably should have just kept going but I passed right by and was curious if they could explain to me in person the reasoning for this change of business. Ventured in to their land a little bit but then gave up when I couldn't find anyone after a minute or so.
I then proceeded to cycle down the main street of Fort Augustus...there wasn't that much to see really but I thought I'd at least remind myself what it looks like before I left. I considered popping in to one of the shops but didn't really need anything.
I then joined the canal towpath. It's much better than the one I'm used to in Leighton Buzzard. Not quite tarmac but not quite rough enough to be considered gravel. I doubt it slowed me down at all actually. I briefly stopped to have a look at one of the canal locks, and then continued on.
It was great to see lots of couple, families, children, pets, all sorts enjoying the space. Anyone who knows me well enough tell you I bang on about this sort of thing far too much, but I really wish this sort of space (for walking and cycling safely, not the canal itself!) was easily accessible to all. It makes such a difference to quality of life.
Along the way I came across at least one gate that was discriminatory towards disabled cyclists and anyone with a cargo bike or trailer. Annoying. Minor inconvenience for me picking my laden bike up, showstopper for others. Frustrating.
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Eventually I arrived at Laggan Lochs, which is where Katie, Wout, Laura, Emma and I had our lunch on our cycling trip in 2019. This time I broke out both my chair and table and then took in the view while eating lunch and talking to my mum over video call. Probably the most scenic video call I've ever had! My home (campsite)-made avacado, bacon, tomato, chicken and lettuce panini was tasty. I should have that more often...but it is a bit decadent.
It was from here that I had to had to join the A82. Throughout this trip I'd been again pleased with the vast majority of drivers being very considerate. That said, considerate drivers wasn't enough to put me entirely at ease on this road. It's pretty much the main road between Inverness and Fort William, so it's rather busy. I did at one point witness a driver overtake me well, pull back in and then overshoot pulling back in and end up on the grass verge briefly. That was a bit scary. Beyond that it was pretty uneventful. Had I cycled further from Fort William I would have been on more roads like this...not something that was particularly appealing.
It didn't surprise me when I was releived to turn off this main road and then rejoin the canal path again. The canal path does not run along the section of Ceann Loch, so my options were either a fire road or the actual road. As much as I disliked the busy road, I think I would have disliked the fire road even more, especially with rain forecast. I didn't like the idea of getting stranded on the fire road, even if I did have everything I needed to bed down for the night.
Before rejoining the canal path I had a quick stop at a commando monument, that was interesting, however with the impending rain I did not hang around too much. I think it actually started raining while I was still on the road to the canal path. By the time I got to the campsite it was a downpour! I guess if it had to rain while riding on my trip, the last twenty minutes of the last day's riding isn't such a bad time for it to happen. I took some photos of the boats moored up near Fort William and the campsite before I turned left towards the campsite.
Setting up the tent at the campsite was a bit rubbish - the inside of the tent was damp, so I decided to let it air out. There was a Vango Banshee 200 nearby my tent, which was my original cycle touring tent. Smaller than my current tent, I was happy to not be using it that day especially given the rain.
I then pondered what to do that evening. I wanted to go to a pub that also had a restaurant on a top floor, serving Mexican food. The problem was that it was forecast to rain for the rest of the day. Ideally I would have put on dry clothes and cycled in to the centre...that would not have worked very well though as I would have been wet by the time I got there anyway. In the end I cycled in to the town in my soggy lycra. I had planned to go to the supermarket first but I really wanted to get out of my wet clothes as soon as possible, and it turned out the restaurant was quite busy too. I decided I'd just go straight to the pub.
Helpfully they pointed out to me where the disabled toilet was so I could get changed. I was much happier once I was in dry clothes again.
Pretty quickly I got a table upstairs and ordered my meal. Nachos for starter and enchiladas for main course. Tasty! I used my laptop while waiting for the courses, which sped along the experience. It was a shame I couldn't share the experience with my sister for example who also loves mexican food, but alas, at least I was there to experience it at all.
Once I'd finished eating (I didn't bother with dessert) I went back downstairs to the pub area to essentially loiter for an hour or so. I didn't want to go to bed yet, knew it was still a bit damp outside, and the pub was the best place to be to use my laptop. Yeah, I'm a creature of habit.
Not much else happened that day. Putting on my wet cycling lycra wasn't much fun. Getting back to the campsite was easy. It was nice to get in my cosy sleeping bag at the end of the day.
Today's ride: 63 miles (101 km)
Total: 543 miles (874 km)
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