September 2, 2021
Day Seven - Torridon to Lochcarron
Drama!
Thursday started off fairly peaceful, soon after I woke up the sun rose between the two munroes, which was rather picturesque. Had another chat with Tom before I left, can't remember what about...wished him well anyway and said it was good to meet him. Broke camp and was ready to leave by 8:45. Much better than 10:30!
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I was in high spirits again, it's difficult not to be when the sun is shining and I'm riding my bike somewhere new and interesting. Still didn't have any signal on my phone, however I stil had the dregs of some BBC 6 Music radio shows so I listened to those while I awaited some mobile internet signal to reappear. At least I had emergency signal, but hopefully would not be needing that.
I did also start to wonder whether my PC at home was still crypto mining like I had left it. Why was I thinking about this? "Ooh, I do hope my PC is earning $30 a week while I'm riding this holiday with perfect weather". It was a bit fustrating that I was even thinking of this while the sun was beaming down on me and I should have been appreciating the view. I was enjoying the view (I took lots of photos after all) but I was just a bit peeved that such a trivial matter was on my mind. That said, I tend to think of all sorts of nonsense when riding my bike. On long rides I often fantasise towards the end of the ride about the evening's meal (you wondered where I was going with that didn't you?).
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At the top of a short sharp climb I happened to look at my phone and found I did have some signal, so I replied to mum's most recent messsage and checked the world hadn't gone to pot since I'd last had contact with the rest of it. Same old rubbish. On with the ride.
Then met Tess (maybe Tessa) and Josh who were riding the route the normal direction, clockwise. Should have really asked them if they wanted me to take a photo for them really, oops. They hadn't managed to get a huge amount of time off but they were going to see how far they could get in the time they had, cycling about 40 miles a day. I think where I met them was where the best views were. Layers upon layers of munroes on the horizon, the haze giving them each a different shade of grey. Rather beautiful.
After having left the rolling (but steep!) hills beside Loch Torridon, I followed the road around heading south, still on the coast, with views of Skye and before that Raasay to my right. The weather was still fantastic, I don't think there was a cloud in the sky. I did end up seing a submarine to my right. I'm not sure how I noticed it, perhaps just the fact that it was all black and had an odd shape on the horizon. Apparently there's some sort of military base nearby, so that would explain it. Probably the closest I've ever been to a nuclear warhead! (Actually, after doing further research on this, UK does have some subs without nuclear warheads)
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Towards the end of this straight with good sightlines, there was a little descent to the beach followed by another climb. At this point I checked my phone - "I wonder when the shop I'm going to closes, presumably 5PM" I thought. Brought up Google Maps (purveyor of often dated information)...12:30PM! I was about 6 miles away with my usual laden average speed about 10-11mph it wasn't going to happen. Phoned them up...they close at 17:00 after all. Crisis averted.
Back on the bike, a few more climbs and then a long steady descent around Applecross Bay, and then on to Applecross itself. As I was on the last part of the descent to the bay I saw a woman eating her lunch who was clearly on a similar trip to me. Perhaps I could ask what sort of trip she's on and such. Gave it some more thought. I was still freewheeling at probably 15-20mph or so. Jamming on the brakes, rocking up and saying "Hi my name's Tom, what sort of trip are you on?"...probably a touch too much. Onwards to the shop.
Annoyingly it was quite some distance from the turning for the big hill, but at least I got to see some views that few other cyclists holidaying there presumably see. Arrived at the shop, assuming to find some premade sandwiches...nope, the woman who makes them is on holiday. Fair enough. Bought everything I needed (inc. lots of chocolates for fuel) and went back to the tourist-y part of the village near the turn for the big climb. No sandwich/lunch like options in sight, I went for fish and chips. I still planned to eat a cooked meal that evening too, deciding that if I deserved two cooked meals on part of this holiday it'd be this day. Turned out it'd be for more than one reason.
I spoke to Ed who was riding in the opposite direction to me, so he had already done the big climb. He'd tried to get friends to join him on his trip but that hadn't worked out, and he'd also considered filming his adventure, but pointed out it's more effort when there's only one of you. Yeah, I got that impression too. Then there's the editing of the footage and so-on. Much easier to write a journal (he says, writing this entry four days later).
Finished my lunch, used the facilities, and on to the climb. It was actually quite steady going at first. Frustratingly I did have to stop a couple of times for traffic. OK, I didn't have to, however I thought it would spoil the occasion if I had a queue of traffic behind me, drivers getting irate. In Tom's cycling utopia, among many other changes, all famous and popular climbs would have a perfect segregated cycle track beside the road.
After some blind corners where the gradient was pretty substantial but not terrible, I caught sight of the summit. Several switchbacks and the vehicles going up and down looked like they were at a significant angle. My legs were telling me what they thought of that looking at it. Time for a break - my legs were already burning a bit from the climb and I knew if I attempted the steepest section in this condition it would not be great. After some food and drink I finally got going again.
I was very much hoping that there would not be any traffic as I attacked the summit. That's how it looked when I set off at least. What happens when I get to the steep section? Oncoming traffic! What happens when I get to one of the switchbacks? Does the driver take the corner as wide as possible (there's plenty of space)? Nope, barely stays on their side of the road, forcing me on the steepest section the hairpin. I try to think the best of people so I suppose it's perfectly possible that they just hadn't been aware of what this sort of driving means for me, trying to ride up. If there had not been any traffic at all I probably would have gone wide on to the wrong side of the road where the gradient was the slightest. Tried to keep going but the gradient was too much, so had to stop, albeit briefly. Really once the driver had gone past I should have gone straight for the flat-ish section of the hairpin, but in my genius I tried to keep going on my side on a steep section. Got moving again eventually but it wasn't easy. Finally got to the top of the climb, which was a relief. Took some photos, tried to video call (4G signal!) anyone I could think might be available to pick up to show them the view, everyone was busy, oh well.
The descent was yet to come. This was a bit daunting as I knew I was carrying a lot of weight and only had rim brakes. Will my wheels fall apart? Tube explode? I tried to brake as little as possible while feeling safe, that was difficult. It's rather tricky to take in the view when dealing with this sort of descent. Little did I know soon I would be getting an extended chance to take in the view!
With traffic behind me (of course), I suddenly realised that my rear tyre was feeling very odd. I felt like I kept losing traction, and soon after that it felt a lot like the rim was touching the road surface itself. Of course that meant I had a flat on the most technical descent in the whole trip. Grim. The main concern of course was stopping as soon as possible, but how to do it? Usually I would just put my weight back (already have plenty of weight on the back in this case though) and apply both front and rear brakes. But my rear tyre can't be trusted, for all I know it might be about to come off the rim entirely. Bear in mind I was riding at about 10mph at this point probably, more concerned with staying safe on the descent than using any real benefit from the gravity assist. The other option was just to use the front brake. Well usually that would throw me over the bars of course, but I had lots of weight over the rear wheel. Even then though, if I didn't get thrown over the bars, what if excessive braking causes the front wheel to go flat too? If I somehow get out of this mess unscathed, I've already felt rim-on-road contact, what if my rim's so damaged that I won't be able to inflate a tyre with it again?
Thankfully a passing place turned up, so like a lorry with faulty brakes on a run-off lane, I directed my bike at the edge of the passing place, which went from descent to flat to incline again. Stopped. That's a relief, no launching myself over the railings today.
Now, to inspect the wheel. I got the tyre off. Oh would you look at that? I can see the spoke holes. Uhoh. The rim tape was ruined. I tried to rearrange the remains of the rim tape such that the spoke holes were no longer exposed. It looked about right before I put the tyre back. So I put the tyre and tube back in, and I can see the spoke holes again. Bother. Well I couldn't think of any other options so I went for it. The tyre inflated! partial success. Got riding again...can you guess what happened? Within about 2 or 3 passing places the tyre went flat again. At least this time I was a bit more prepared for it to happen.
The first time I had to stop I shouted "fuck fuck fuck" and even "fuckety fuck". Swearing apparently reduces pain, and while I wasn't in physical pain - plenty of stress! This time stopping was a much less panicked affair, thank goodness. So, what were my options now? Well, legally I could camp half way down the hill, I didn't have a meal to cook though, so that'd be a bit rubbish. One way or another I needed to sort my rear wheel. Walking down with all my luggage would have been awful. A taxi down would have felt like defeat. Flagged down a van to see if they had electrical tape. Nope. Good of him to stop though. Talking to my friend from work, Richard...I was pondering my options. Suddenly...First aid kit! Perhaps it has tape in it! Yes it does! I diligently taped up every exposed spoke hole I could see. The tyre held air. Somehow I got to the bottom of the hill. I was very hesitant with the braking though as you might expect.
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The last check-in for the campsite I was aiming for was probably going to close before I got there, bother. Tried phoning the guy a couple of times but no answer. Texted him instead after I actually listened to the answer machine message. He said it was fine if I turned up late, phew. By the time I'd received that text I had already been giving it full gas for a good 20 minutes or so so it was a relief to slow down. I did want to eat at the nearby restaurant though so I was still inclined to go a good pace. It would have been nice to enjoy the views as the sun was setting, but it definitely felt as if I was against a bit of a timer, if nothing else so that I could have a cooked meal. My phone was on its last dregs of battery too - I did have USB batteries with charge but they're a pain to find.
Arrived at the campsite after going past it, it seemed rather quaint and reminded me of one I visited a few year ago in...*checks Strava* near Nenthead, the Haggs Bank Bunkhouse and Campsite. What reminded me about that campsite was that like that one, the evening's accomodation had flat levels to camp on, like big steps I suppose. Think rice paddy fields in China except instead of Koi and water, a flat surface to pitch your tent. Gosh that was an elaborate description for something so simple wasn't it?
Picked a spot close to some other campers. There was what was either a bivvy or an extremely compact tent on the level above and behind my tent, with a rather nice bike parked next to it. Perhaps an opportunity for conversation later. To my tent's right there was a couple who'd also already set up (I got there at about 7PM), who seemed quite chatty. There was a tent to my left too but I didn't meet whoever was in there.
Before setting up my tent I got down to the business of finding somewhere to eat that evening. I did have some food with me anyway but wasn't particularly keen on eating it that evening. Phoned the nearest hotel, they'll cook for me but I have to be there no later than 20:15. Another rushed camp set-up it is then. I didn't bother with the guide ropes...guy ropes? Guy ropes apparently, thanks google. Is there such a thing as gal ropes? Non-binary ropes? OK, that's a pretty painful attempt at humour isn't it?
It was pretty still that evening and given the time constraint I didn't bother with a perfect pitching of the tent. Given the lack of wind and proximity to water (and long grass which supposedly is a happy home for them) the midges quickly descended. Out comes the midge head net. I didn't bring any repellent with me but based on previous experience it did not seem worth it. I don't really mind getting bitten on my limbs, it's just the swarming around the head that's bothersome. On goes the head net, and my neighbours to my right do the same. The guy with the nice bike behind me appears. He doesn't have a headnet, oh no! He was pacing around rubbing his head as anyone in that situation would. I felt for him...not so much that I'd give him mine of course - it was probably a health hazard at this point anyway, ignoring the pandemic. Fortunately my neighbours to my right dug out a spare one they had and gave it to him. That might be a nice way to make new friends in future trups up here - bring spare midge nets!.
Went to have my shower after having set up my tent. Can't remember whether I got my sleep kit set up, spotted someone was charging something on a plug in the toilet block so concluded it'd be a good idea to charge at least one of my batteries. There's always a risk it will get stolen of course but then that's the chance you take camping anyway. Accepting this level of risk with my posessions is not something I'm used to, probably on account of rarely having lived in rural areas.
Made my way to the hotel/restaurant, cycled there although that was probably a bit pointless as the walk was shorter and more direct if not a somewhat steep descent. It did mean I could easily move the stuff I wanted to bring with me though.
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Restaraunt was pleasant enough, had some langoustines which I've never eaten before. Should have asked the staff how to eat them but my laptop was open so I figured I may as well use that. Was tempted to go for something dull like lasagne or fish or burger and chips, but instead went with...gammon and chips. So the chips weren't up to much, but the gammon was delicious. Not sure whether it was copious amounts of salt or the "chef's garnish" but it was sumptuous*. Oh look at me breaking out the vocab. I'm not even sure I've ever used that word before, don't know whether I've even spelled it properly. No dessert at the restaurant, had some dessert with me in one of my bags so had that instead.
By the time I'd cycled back to the campsite, everyone else I'd already spoken to was in bed, unsurprisingly. It was already dark after all. I soon went to bed myself, not before checking my battery was still there charging. Of course if it wasn't there, I'd wake everyone up in the campsite to ask if they'd stolen it, wouldn't I? Perhaps not.
*Looked up sumptuous on my kindle after it came up in hitchhikers guide to the galaxy, doesn't quite mean what I thought. Let's just go with delicious instead.
Today's ride: 52 miles (84 km)
Total: 412 miles (663 km)
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