August 31, 2021
Day Five - Ullapool to Gruinard Bay
"rest day"
Another day, another unzipping of the tent to cloudy skies with the possiblity of sunshine later. I had been tempted to stay in Ullapool for the day and have a break, however concluded based on past experiences at the end of touring holidays that there was a good chance I would get bored. I did want a pizza there the night before but the restaurant was closed that day. Just as well the fish and chips I did have were delicious.
After looking at my options I decided I'd ride 40 miles today (actually yesterday, still not sure how to write this! Past tense? Present?) and that would make for a rest day of sorts compared to previous days. The hill that I knew was coming up based on what my garmin was telling me...well, it might be a gentle gradient. That would be nice wouldn't it? I decided that the simplest option for the day would be to pack up, go to Tesco get supplies for the whole day, including cooking in the evening, and then get on.
Said bye to the woman whose food had been attacked the previous day (Sara) at the campsite as I cycled past her walking. Turned out she was going to get coffee and then go to Tesco too. I was looking for a charity shop which was supposed to already be open despite it being before 9AM. That's what the google maps listing said at any rate. Nope, closed, opens at 10AM. Well I wasn't going to wait until 10.
Bought some more mint chocolates at Tesco, of course, along with supplies to cook veggie fajitas. I prefer chicken in them but I can't be bothered dealing with meat (or at least chicken at any rate) on a campsite. By the time I'd finished Sara had already finished too and she was drinking her coffee. Turns out she's from Walthamstow (Near Waltham Forest, London's first mini-holland!). She likes the low traffic neighbourhoods and doesn't own a car. Had to ask, didn't I?
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Sounded like she'd led quite an adventurous life, she'd actually been to a Critical Mass ride somewhere in South Africa. We parted ways and wished each other well. I think I've written that last sentence before. Never mind. As I was packing away I ended up talking to someone who had moved to the area just over a decade ago and was seemingly a bit tired of "hot hatch" groups who were becoming a bit of a nuisance. Interesting to hear his perspective on things. He said he owned his own motorhome and he'd actualy been harassed while using it in the past. Bizarre! People are weird, but that's no surprise at this point. Also asked him about NC500 branding...according to him at least decades ago the area was still popular with people who looked on a map for remote places but that was about it. I suspect if I'd visited back then I might have been carrying more food with me to keep going. That said the locals must have needed local shops still. Anyway, I didn't get his name, or indeed a photo of him. Seemed like a nice guy though.
On to the riding. Took a few shots of the Ullapool bay as I was leaving with my phone as I cycled. I've become very profeccient doing this over the past few days. It's still a judgement call of course though, always. Doing it on a steep descent would be madness - that's when I pull over. Usually there's car parks anyway or at least passing places. Turned right technically to get back on to the road out of town (even though it was just straight on)...no-one else seemed to indicate, but I did! I had club kit on after all.
There was a bit of pre-amble before the hill started. It was quite a busy road but it got quieter sooner than I had expected which was appreciated. Was also nice to not have to worry about passing places as it was dual lanes rather than single track. When the climb did start...well it was steady at first but then I came across a sign that said "Slow Lorries, 1 Mile". Uhoh. Took a photo of that, of course - first time I'd seen it. Slow cyclists too it turned out, I really had to give it full gas to get up one section, grinding at probably 50rpm or so, much slower than I'd like.
After that steep section I pulled over in a car park and had a short break. I was half way up the hill! Result! I knew it was a big hill but didn't want to screen watch so didn't have the elevation chart up on my garmin. There was an interesting looking building that looked like might it be a toilet. Whatever it was it was boarded up. Seemingly others had assumed the same as me, been wrong and then used it as such anyway. The smell gave that away - aromatic! Ate some more mint chocolates, away from the smell, (maybe I should try something else soon) and kept going.
Eventually turned off the main road for the second part of the climb. Good news! A gentle gradient with spectacular views! Perfect. I like descending but it requires a lot of concerntration. A gentle climb, stunning views, I love it. Smooth road too. Took loads of photos. There's not much more to say about it really, it was fantastic.
Started the descent, it was actually gentler than I'd expected, I actually had to pedal! Turned out it had three stages to it essentially. Before the next section of the descent I stopped and had good phone reception! Handy. Then I noticed the cell tower, that'd explain it. Odd that it was seemingly powered by a generator. Couldn't they have put a wind turbine and solar panels on the other side of the hill? I think they'd have fit with the landscape better than a couple of big green boxes. Maybe paint the wind turbine green? I suspect that's now allowed.
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Then on to the steeper descent, and I was pretty forthright with the brakes. I'm not sure what my max descendning speed with luggage is but it's not much above say 30mph. Then the descent flattened out a touch and I was riding through woods with a gentle descent again. Didn't really have to pedal, lots of trees which was pleasant. Still a smooth road. Got to the very bottom of the descent, and ate my lunch on a picnic bench. Amused me that there was another bench next to what appeared to be a disused petrol station which had a sign on it saying it was for the sole use of customers of the bar across the road. The bar wasn't even open and the bench wasn't facing the scenery, instead it looked at the bar. Perhaps the bar owners think their building is better looking that the loch? Hmm.
Ended up watching a Linus Tech Tips video about a device that lets you transmit gigabit broadband over long distances on a tight beam. Interesting. I could just picture doing the same from where I was sitting to the other side of the loch I was next to. I'd be very surprised if it's possible to get gigabit internet around here to start with though!
After I'd eaten my lunch I got everything organised once more and set off, knowing that given I was now at sea level it only meant one thing - time to climb! The climb itself was relatively shallow up until the final section anyway. With a loch to my right and hills either side of that the view was something to behold, in the dazzling sunshine.
After having listened to 6 Music in the morning I was now on to EasyAllies' Frametrap podcast. I don't usually listen to it as it's their longer podcast, but it was pleasing to hear the presenters comment on how glad they are that Psychonauts 2 turned out well. I really ought to try it, but probably ought to try the first instalment beforehand.
About half way up the climb after seeing lots of little waterfalls to my left (would drivers have noticed them?) I rode past the largest I'd seen so far on that stretch. I'd seen this already on Google Maps so I was pleased to have realised it was the same one. I briefly looked at it from the roadside but was aware there were much better views of it if I scrambled up the hill. This was a bit daunting - I was glad I had packed some good shoes.
I probably embarassed myself somewhat getting up said hill, hiking is not something I've done before. I'm sure the men working on setting up big rocks to function as steps amused themselves watching me hesitantly climb up, usually using one of my hands to steady myself as I went.
I ended up using my compact camera for just the second time on the trip. Maybe it wasn't worth bringing it, my phone does pretty well. I set it up on one set of rocks, connected it to my phone to use it as a remote shutter, and climbed over a bit of a gorge I guess you'd call it, to get on another section higher up. For some reason I'd taken my helmet off for this part, even though it was probably the most risky! Genius. At least there were other people there so they could panic helplessly. It did feel a bit like the fools who scale skyscrapers to take selfies. I don't think it was that much of a risk though. You won't know unless you visit yourself though! The first time I got to where I wanted to be to take the photo...the connection between my phone and camera had dropped out. Bother. Off I went to reconnect again, climbing over the gorge again. There was a rock forming a bridge over the two sides, but it was flat, which made using it a bit difficult.
After I'd taken this portrait, I then climbed a bit higher to see what else there was. There I found an even more appealing waterfall. I was sorely tempted to just take a shower under it there and then, but I suspect hypothermia would have followed, along with confused looks from the others that were there. Took some more photos and climbed back down.
After this excursion up the hill (having left my bike and all my kit other than handlebar bag unlocked, brave), I continued up the hill on the side of the loch. For the most part it was a steady climb, which was appreciated. Got to the very top, lots of motorbikers were travelling in convoy. Should a couple of the convoys happen to stop at the same time I suspect it turns in to an impromptu meet.
On the way down from the summit, I did have a motorbike overtake me while there was oncoming traffic, an SUV I think. The motorcyclist was on the far side of my side of the road, very close to the SUV, so the SUV's driver sounded their horn. Unsurprising, I would have too. The descent felt somewhat alpine, lots of trees. There was one big climb left. Short but steep., which to my mind is more worrisome than a long steady climb. Amusingly as I climbed it Barry White's "Can't get enough of your love" came on the radio. I probably ended up syncing my pedalling with the beat. After this there was a nice rolling descent to the camp site.
Arrived at the campsite in Laide, which had a picturesque location. There were some ruins and a cemetary nearby which I didn't get a chance to visit. Well, I could have, but this place had laundry facilities, so that was the priority. I just hoped there wasn't a queue to use it. Also at the campsite was another cyclist, I didn't speak to her straight away. As per usual I wanted to prioritise setting up my tent and having a shower. The campsite was probably the best one I've been to in the whole trip, the showers were very well kept.
We eventually did get to chat, she was called Sian and lives and works in Cardiff. She'd got a flight up to Inverness and rented most of her touring kit including the bike. I suppose it shouldn't surprise me that such a service exists, perhaps I should have tried that before I went on my first touring trip. I already had the pannier bags but tent and camping gear rental would have been useful.
Making sure I made use of the washing machine and drier as soon as it became available took some co-ordination, lots of use of the timer on my phone. Did make the evening feel a bit rushed what with the cooking (fajitas) too. Just as well I did have my stove, as the local hotel/restaurant was closed. It's quite a small village it would seem.
I was talking about my beloved cargo bike with Sian, and she eventually said "Do you have a million bikes?". That was amusing.
I did try to write this journal in the tent but I really wasn't feeling it, so gave up. On the way back from brushing my teeth I tried looking up at the stars again. As if the sky was teasing me of things to come I pretty quickly saw a shooting star! Not the first time I've seen one (terribly named by the way, if a star was anywhere near Earth's atmosphere...well, it wouldn't get that close to the atmosphere!) but I haven't seen that many so it was good to see. Had a bit of a wander around the campsite, headtorch attached to...well, you can work it out. Set up my camera with its tripod to get some photos, I don't really know how they turned out yet. By the time I'd played with my camera for a bit my eyes had adjusted to the dark sky - this time it was very pretty. I did wonder whether I could see the milky way, but it was very faint. Glad I finally got to see a true dark sky.
Went to bed listening to Frank Skinner's the "The Rest is History", which was interesting...doubt much went in mind!
Waterfall, scrambling around, rock steps, wifi camera, motorbikes at top of climb, picturesque descent, dodgy motorcyclist oncoming driver, nice campsite, good shower, scrambling for washing machine and drier, german couple there again, talked to Sian while cooking (she's doing NC500 up to Thurso, rented bike and bags from inverness). "Do you have a million bikes?", talked about helmets, uhoh, she's in cardiff and works as a personal trainer,
Tried to write journal in tent for a while, eventually gave up, went to brush teeth, saw shooting star on way back, looked at stars for a while, no aurora but I did see more stars than I've ever seen before, took photos, went to bed, listening to frank skinner's history comedy radio show.
Today's ride: 42 miles (68 km)
Total: 315 miles (507 km)
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