Day Eight - Lochcarron to Inverness - Tom rides North Coast 500-ish, and then some

September 3, 2021

Day Eight - Lochcarron to Inverness

Last of the NC500 proper route.

I was first up at least amongst my neighbours in the campsite that morning. The conditions were overcast but still and not particularly cold either. I was so close to the couple to the right of my tent that I was conscious that I didn't want to wake them up. It was probably only after 6AM so I doubt many tourists, even campers would consider it a reasonable time to be awake. I'd much rather pack up my kit in a relaxed manner though. The first thing for me to do was check that my USB battery was still in the toilet block. Phew, it was. Fully charged too! Victory.

Then I went to find the pedestrian path (rather than cycle) to the local garage and shop, which had conveniently opened at 7AM. Turns out it was straight on from the entrance to the campsite down a rather steep path down ot the loch. There was even a very tiny waterfall. Then I had a longer than expected walk along the lochside (is that a word? I'm on the train with no internet connection as I write this!). In the end I should have cycled if I wanted to save time. Well at least it was still early.
The shop had clearly just opened as the staff were still putting the the signs and bits and pieces outside the front door. Walked in to the shop, found the car parts section assuming to find electircal tape there to use as a better fix for my still somewhat dodgy rear wheel. To my surprise, I couldn't find anything, I then asked one of the members of staff. I asked if they had any...I think my brain was still switching on.

"Yeah we usually have some tapes in a box behind the til", or words to that effect. You probably understood that sentence as you read each word. For some reason on the day it felt like I just stood there dumbfounded for a whole five seconds. He must have thought I was mad.

*pause for effect*..."Oh yeah, OK". I wandered around the shop for a few minutes to try and find some lunch and snacks. Mexican panini, that'll do. Salt and vinegar crisps, an orange or two, and my final mint chocolate squares. Got to the til, the staff member rummaged around in a box behind him. "Is this what you're after?"

Well, I say saves the day...remarkably my problematic rear tyre was still fully pumped up, however it was such a relief to have something more appropriate with me to be able to fix the tyre should I have any further issues.

It turned out my camping neighbours to my side who I had spoken to were Harry and Milly. They had a rather retro looking mercedes car. Goodness know how much that cost, I assume less than £5,000 though unless there was something about it I didn't know about. I can see how it's make an interesting vehicle to go on a holiday on...hopefully the engine isn't too weakened for otherwise carrying all that metal up the big climbs I'd been riding up might have been a struggle. Still, they got this far at least.

"Classic" Car? No idea, old at any rate.

My cycling neighbour was called James, he didn't have a good night's sleep in his bivvy sack, oh dear. He had a nice bike, can't remember what brand but I suspect the photo I took will inform me once I add it to this entry. Ah, Giant.

Harry still in his bivvy with his Giant bike.

Harry again...he didn't get much sleep he said. I suspect the midge net helped him smile, they were after him the night before.

I ended up saying bye to the people I'd met twice, the first time assuming I wouldn't see them again as they went to the toilet block. Also finally saw the owner of the campsite as I was leaving - I wanted to ask how I could pay as I only hard payment cards and twenty pound notes, but I was under a bit of a time constraint as I wanted to get to Inverness at a reasonable time, unlike the previous evening's escapades. Sent him a text (he'd replied to my text message the previous evening) to ask if I could pay online, however he still has not replied, over a week later (editing this again - 3-4 months later!). I should probably ask again, but then it is his business - shouldn't he be chasing me for payment?

Left the campsite with some trepidation, knowing that my rear wheel was full of somewhat shredded rim tape, the remains of electrical tape, and some newly applied medical tape. I didn't want to fix what wasn't broke though.

The road immediately after Lochcarron was pretty pleasant. Smooth as per usual in Scotland, with mountain moorland views and an overcast sky. The temperature was comfortable for riding however I probably wouldn't want to hang around for too long. Not much wind.

After a steady climb through woods and the single track road, it eventually opened up and I was cycling through a valley. The view was quite expansive and I was glad that there was not a strong wind as I was quite exposed. Cycling through this part of Scotland in a storm is probably an experience to remember (or indeed forget).

A bit dull looking, but dry and warm enough. After days of sunshine with the most picturesque views, I quite happily settled for overcast towards the end of the holiday.

At about the twenty mile mark it was time to join the A832 turning right at Achnasheen. This was clearly a busier road than what I had been on (the A890), but my experience with Scottish drivers over the years is that they tend to be considerate, so I wasn't overly concerned. I wasn't expecting blind corners or anything similar anyway. It was on this road that someone at some point on this trip that day tried to tell me something as I cycled, pulling close to my bike. Not much of an idea what they had said to me, but I got the impression it was something about not being visible enough. Maybe that's just me assuming the worst. If it was that, well, while my jacket is black it does have reflective strips, then there's my bright red bags with their reflective material too...did I mention my helmet light that I had on too? Well if they were struggling to see me perhaps they should send their driving licence back and perhaps book a visit to the local opticians. I'm not sure why some drivers think I want to have a conversation with them while we both ought to be concerntrating on what's in front of us on the road. The difference is when they're distracted there's just as big a risk that they'll severely injure someone else rather than just themselves.

Can't remember where this was on the route...

...or this. I didn't dismount though that's for sure! "MUST"...did I break the law? 🤷

I decided to have my lunch at the forty mile mark, but in the end ate in a small village off the main road just before forty, I think. Looking at the map, Garve it was called. Considered eating at the picturesque train station, but the entrances still had signs up saying masks were mandatory, so eating there would not have worked... or at least I couldn't be bothered with breaking the rule. Instead I found a bench with a nice view of a nearby munroe...just far enough from the din of the traffic to be somewhat peaceful. As I was finishing my meal a train rolled in, which was a little bit of extra interest I suppose. Then had to cross the trainline - the sign said "Cyclists Dismount", which is probably against the eqaulity act of 2010 (how's someone who can't walk supposed to dismount their cycle?). I'm pretty familiar with rail, or at least tram, tracks though being from Blackpool so it wouldn't have been an issue. I think this one (second of the day) I walked past it (I was already dismounted) and then got on after.

More riding on the busy road, which was still not the best experience but at least it allowed for good progress. The drivers remained patient and didn't overtake for the most part when they couldn't see whether there was oncoming traffic, which was still refreshing. I waved them a thank you when they slowed right down and waited behind as I ascended some of the short, but relatively shallow climbs.

Finally came off the A835 just after Wester Moy, on to the A832, which was clearly a much quieter road. Suited me. Shortly after stopped to eat an orange while continuing to listen to Shaun Keaveny talk to Jodie Whittaker. Didn't know she was a fan.

More riding on the A832 which was a much calmer afair, and then immediately after turning off this road I stopped for a chat with someone who was doing a local loop around where she lived. She seemed pretty convinced that I would enjoy cycling along the A9 - I wasn't. The track is full of potholes, supposedly...or at least has stretches of questionable surface such that riders risk it on the road itself instead. No, by this point I had decided it was Fort William for me.

View to Brunchew Caravan park, where I stayed with Wout, Katie, Emma and Laura on the previous Scotland trip (with worse weather)

Bimbled along the now coastal road at a leisurely pace, with Inverness across the Beauly Firth to my right. As I approached the Kessock bridge I started seeing signs for a charity abseil. I think I'll pass thanks, but at least it was something to look at. As I approached the closer side of bridge I pulled up behind three other cyclists, all with less luggage than me. The four of us then went up a sweeping left turn to join the A9. I couldn't help but put a bit of extra effort in to see where I would end up amongst this group. Managed to overtake two of them, which certainly made me smile given the vast difference in luggage carried!

Group to chase in the foreground, abseil in the background.

Closing in! I had a big grin on my face. I'm sure they thought I was weird but who am I to break with tradition?

I then crossed the Kessock Bridge (Star Trek Bridge Commander anyone?), taking a couple of photos while riding on the protected cycle lane/path to the side of the road. Once I got in to Inverness there was quite a lot of traffic, turned out a bus had broken down, oops. Did some ducking and diving to get around the jam, it didn't impede me as much as it did the drivers I suspect.

Traffic at a standstill. Impromptu cycle lane between two columns of stuck cars? Oh go on then.

After getting a little bit lost in Inverness (second time in a row), I crossed the River Ness, and in the distance in front of me...could it be? It was clearly someone cycling, but perhaps...yup, cargo bike! One just like mine. Well, almost. I assumed it was a Bullitt like I own but it turns out it was a Ridgeback. I didn't know they even made cargo bikes, but it's good to know that they've dipped their toes in to the market and that someone in Inverness has a similar utilitarian bike to me. Going touring on such a bike has some appeal however given that unladen it weighs about as much as my touring bike when it is laden...well lets just say I wouldn't be doing it on a route with hills.

Cargo bike! Ridgeback - glad that they're making them now too.

When I did eventually get to the campsite, I got to the backpacker section and someone approached me to have a chat. Crikey it doesn't usually happen so soon after arriving! Turned out there was a "RideForMS" ride setting off to do the NC500 route in the same direction as I had done it. They had a huge van full of boxes and support kit. It did make me feel a bit smug that I'd just done the same trip off my own back. I later looked up RideForMS - the trips don't cost anything, but they do require a minimum of about £500 raised to cover costs. Did strike me a bit of "Please pay for my holiday". Sure after the costs are covered then the money is going towards whatever the charity is but how about...paying for your own holiday and then raising money for a charity without actually doing some sort of trip or challenge? Maybe it's just me. I'd rather fund my own holidays! Was wondering if any of them wanted to socialise but they seemed to have their next week entirely planned out (I on the other hand am getting quite used to freewheeling it), including that evening, so I decided I would make my own plans.

I then proceeded to set up camp and have a shower. Definitely wanted a pizza for my evening meal but was not sure how to go about getting it. Dominos and similar was an option but they tend to be rather expensive for just one person. I did go past a music venue on the way to the campsite, so I thought I'd look up what was going on there as I'd already taken a photo of the banner. "UnderCanvas" it was called.

Here's the sign I cycled past on the way to the campsite. There always seems to be something interesting going on in Inverness!

It turned out there was a folk gig in an hour or two. Was I interested in listening to them perform? A quick search on youtube revealed I was and...they (the staff, not the artists!) were serving pizza too. Worked for me. Annoyingly I had to buy three seats rather than the one, but at a total of £15 for the ticket it was actually rather cheap. A night of pizza and "Laura Beth Salter and Jenn Butterworth + Rachel Hair and Ron Jappy" according to the ticket email. Pretty good for an accidental gig on my part.

I could have walked to the venue, but of course cycling was more time efficient so it was time to get back on the bike. Got to the venue which was a colourfully decorated marquee outside the Eden Court theatre. Had a quick video call with mum showing here what I was up to which was nice.

What a pleasant venue! I even had a blanket, which it turned out was necessary. I was warm enough with it though...cosy in fact!

The gig was good, really enjoyable. I'd already had several moments while riding thinking "This is why I go on this sort of holiday". What a delight to have a moment in the holiday that didn't involve cycling (other than getting there) where I could say to myself "I've done pretty well here, this is enjoyable". It's really easy to spiral in to thinking "is this worth the money, should I be spending my money on something else?" and such like. It's these moments where everything comes together when you can say to yourself you're happy with when and where you have ended up. The pizza I got was very tasty, and the serving of fries was bigger than I expected, so there was little chance of me going hungry that evening. Apple juice and water to drink.

Didn't hang around for too long after the gig finished. It was nice to see I was not the only person who had cycled there. Rode back to the campsite, going past the carnival on my right in the park, not sure whether it was still actually running at that point. Unsurprisingly once I got back to the tent all the other cyclists at the start of their RideForMS trip had already gone to bed.

Happily I was plenty far enough from the other tents to play a podcast from my phone without having to worry about keeping anyone awake. Didn't lock up my bike this time, even though I did the last time I was at the same campsite in 2018. Have I become too trusting?

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Today's ride: 63 miles (101 km)
Total: 475 miles (764 km)

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