The Orient Express - Here Comes the Sun, Spain 2022 - CycleBlaze

May 23, 2022

The Orient Express

 OK, the title of the journal entry today is not based on any train ride but rather that our route that took us to Orient today. There is nothing Oriental about it, though. 

We are situated in a bowl in the Tramuntana mountains and to leave town you must ride one of three challenging mountain roads. Of course, we knew this when we decided to stay here. Or, should I say, it sounded apppealing at the time we booked in here. Seriously though, we are gob smacked by mountain cycling so it is ideal for us. If you like hiking, it's ideal for you too.

There are three roads out of Soller. We rode one on the first day of this trip (Puig Major), the second on the day we transitioned here (Col de Soller) and the third (Deia) just yesterday. The beauty is that there are small towns here and there with their own attractions so today we have chosen a loop ride to include Orient, Alaro and Bunyola. This will entail summitting three cols: Col de Soller, Col d'Honor and Col de Soller. That's technically two cols but from a 'rubber meets the road' perspective, it's three.

To get to the Col de Soller from Soller town, we have to ride the gauntlet of highway MA11 for about 4km uphill to reach the tunnel that diverts traffic heading to Palma. The steep valley is lined with lemon and orange orchards. Seeing the fresh lemons in the ditches was a stark reminder how common and ordinary citrus fruits are in this culture. At home, we covet citrus fruits in season. 

The plan was to ride up and over the Col de Soller, hang a left and ride the Col d'Honor en route to Orient, then back to Soller via Alaro, Bunyola, and the Col de Soller again. In total it would be almost 1400m of climbing over 67km.

We see many hibiscus in full bloom in this part of Mallorca. This yellow one is in the courtyard of our hotel.
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Just before the Col de Soller begins, the train and car tunnels divert traffic away. The train passes through 13 tunnels, the longest being 2856m long; the car tunnel is 3023m long. Our climb begins with a short steep section that is about 15% and then the switchbacks begin.

The train tunnel that was built to connect Soller with the rest of Mallorca and now serves a thriving tourism industry.
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The car tunnel built 1997 to save car and truck traffic the circuitous drive over the Col de Soller.
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Goats roam the hillsides and kick rocks down on the roads. We have to be careful to avoid the rocks! This little fella' gave us a ba-a-a-ah as we left him to walk the rails.
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Oranges are ripe and make delicious juice, which we have every day for breakfast.
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One of the many orange groves in the steep, narrow valley.
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The Inca's were here!! Well, maybe not but whoever built this stone wall sure knew what they were doing and had more tools than the Inca.
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Cruising through a nice wide hairpin. Transport trucks occasionally use this route and they need that space!
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View down the slope of Col de Soller showing one of the hairpins in the road.
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Easy riding...until later in the afternoon on our return, when it will be much warmer.
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The drystone terraces are abundant in Mallorca. They facilitated agriculture in otherwise inhospitable terrain and are still very much in use today.
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Even roadside weeds are pretty.
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We spotted some geese as we rode up the narrow, treed Col d'Honor. At first glance, I thought these were Canada geese, but no. Barnyard variety.
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The col d'Honor is a small winding road that had more cyclists than cars on it today. The road is heavy, meaning it's in rough condition. This adds to the challenge as it takes more energy to ride a heavy road.
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At the summit of the col d'Honor, we came upon a very large group of cyclists hanging out and shooting the breeze. After shooing them away from the col sign (such bad manners 😜) we took our obligatory photos and headed off down the hill. The road surface was downright awful and at full speed it rattles your brain, let alone your wrists and forearms! Eventually it smoothed out and we sailed into Orient for coffee.

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Patty BarronEye-catching jersey, Mr D! Great look! 👍
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2 years ago
Orient is a small village.
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Once over the Col d'Honor and past Orient, we found ourselves in heaven on earth.
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On a long descent, we were ejected onto this section of cobbles. Yikes!!! Did someome not pay their taxes??
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Alaro looked to be a nice village where we could spend more time.
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The town's wash basin of yester year still holds clear cold water. Good for cooling down but not potable.
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Street names in Alaro were written on beautifully decorated tiles.
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More gorgeous street name tiles.
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We made a stop in Bunyola where we bought a slice of pizza and almond cake. The Bunyola train station was a perfect spot to enjoy our snacks.

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This is a train station like no other. A creative person has had some fun decorating the seating area at the outside bar. They had beer on tap, but were closed as the train has gone through already. And the washrooms were spotless... a rarity.
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A strong headwind was blowing by the time we were on the home stretch. Luckily, the grade of the Col de Soller is gentle on this side, for the most part.
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We stopped to watch a goat family, mom, dad and junior.
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Back in town after another invigorating ride, we replenished some fluids then headed out for a simple dinner of spaghetti and salad. 

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Elevation gain: 8701 metres.

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Today's ride: 68 km (42 miles)
Total: 532 km (330 miles)

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Comment on this entry Comment 3
Anne AnastasiouThanks for adding the comment that it is ideal for hikers too. Good to know. Some of those roads for riding on today looked brain jiggling! Glad you two enjoyed it though. xx
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2 years ago
Anne MathersTo Anne AnastasiouYou two have been on our minds a lot! We can see you would really enjoy Mallorca in so many ways. 😍
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2 years ago
Anne AnastasiouTo Anne MathersThanks Anne. You are sure on our minds too! We're loving following your amazing journey and knowing that you are having a wonderful time. xx
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2 years ago