I FINALLY FEEL awake rather than writing in a semi-stupour. It doesn't mean that I like to do this, it only means that I will try to get it done a lot faster.

This morning we were up for an 8 am breakfast, then we threw all into the car and were on our way to Wall - on the actual wall the town was known as Chesters. Here were excavations of a Roman fort. The bath house was quite amazing as was the commandant's house. Their floors were heated from below. The floors themselves were slabs of stone on many stone pillars. Though this was interesting, we couldn't actually see a wall so we drove to Housestead's Roman fort which was 24 km west.

It was a National Trust property so I saved £1 and we walked up the long hill to the fort. On the way up, we noticed the steps which were formed by the Romans for agricultural purposes. The hill was thus transformed into a number of flat fields. In the fort, we saw the ruins of the barracks, hospital, and the commandant's house. Here the wall was in great shape. I walked along it for a mile or so to get a photo as depicted on most postcards of the wall. The wall was only 1.25 m high, but on the north side was a 30 m drop to the fields where sheep grazed. It would have been rather difficult for the Scots to have invaded. The wall hugged the hill for miles in both directions until it faded into the distance.

From the top of the hill the land could be seen for km in both directions. Green as emeralds but when the storm clouds rolled in, the mood was very depressing. I find the further north we go the more 'moody' the land is.

We got into the car just as the rain began to fall. We headed to Newcastle which was no city to be proud of. In the last several decades this port city has been going through urban renewal so there was nothing to see. All we did was eat lunch - ploughman's sandwich and scones - and I mailed a postcard home. We left right after lunch.

North of the city about 50 km was the town of Rothbury. It was in the middle of more barren hills of sheep. Where areas were fenced was very dense forest so I think they should get rid of the sheep so it doesn't look so bleak.

Nearby was Craigside House and Gardens which was also a National Trust property, so I saved another £2.40. My membership has now been paid for! The first Lord Armstrong, a brilliant engineer in the 19th Century had built this country mansion away from the city. Eventually the train was nearby so he moved in. This mansion was the first in the world to have electricity. There were all kinds of inventions he had in the very elaborate house. I'm continually getting ideas for my Victorian house - colours, furniture and designs. We walked down to the stream where I photographed the house. The whole property (900 acres) has been reforested as it had been barren before the lord came. He planted six million trees. It's like a jungle on the hill. There was one part of the place called Canada Hill where I'm sure he'd planted trees imported from our west coast. It looked slightly Canadian.

Again as the rain began, we left the property and headed north through the Northumberland National Park which passes through the Cheviots. The higher we got, the foggier we got until at the border, which was at the highest point, we were immersed in the clouds. Just before this we'd stopped so I could get a picture depicting the region.

Descending from the slopes we were getting very tired, plus, Ann didn't feel well at all so after getting gas in Jedburgh - absolutely beautiful (**) - we began looking for a B&B. There'd been quite a few south of town but we didn't feel like doubling back. We saw a tourist information sign so we followed it. I thought it would be close but we went a few km into a beautiful Scottish town - Melrose. I immediately thought of 'Local Hero'. It was really green and the Eildon Hills (3) are out back.

We found the TIC closed so asked at a market where the woman said she had room. It's beautiful. Great accent. Tomorrow morning we're going to walk up the hills. I wrote postcards and talked with Sharon then I had a bath and hit the sack. I feel great today as I'm getting more sleep these days.