May 18, 1986
May 18, 1986 - Llanberis to Offa's Dyke
I CAN'T BELIEVE it's so late after a day like this.
I was up at 8 am and went down for 8:30 am. I had one of the greasiest breakfasts yet. Even when the owner's son gave it to me, he said that Americans call it heart attack food. Everything was fried.
I left by 9:30 am after packing my nicely dried clothes. The weather looked bad but at least the wind had partially shifted. I'd wanted to go up Snowdon, but the top was shrouded in mists. Unfortunately, when I got out of Snowdonia (constantly up and down) the wind was a bit to my right. Again, it was a case of pedaling just to get down a steep hill.
When I arrived in Dolgellau, I was tired and hungry (1:15 pm) so I had a snack in town. Just as I was getting ready to go, a fellow came up to me and asked where I was from. He's a reporter for the Winnipeg Free Press. He took a photo of me with the bike and asked me to call him collect when I get back so he can print my story. I told him to wait til I've rested then I'd call by mid-June. I'm impressed!
This town was the turning point of the day. From here onwards, I'd not have any place to go in a westerly direction. Heading straight east was great - I flew. There were a few hills where I had to walk but it was a nice break. There was a 20% downhill where I really had to brake or I could have had a major problem.
Since the wind was so strong, I had lots of help getting through the Cambrian Mountains. In fact, so fast I decided to try for Welshpool to see Powis Castle as it's open Wednesday to Sunday only. There was one point where I stopped to get batteries for the Walkman - the music on BBC Radio 1 was great. A few times I was getting so exhausted I'd have to stop as I was feeling rather numb.
I love Wales. The hills are beautiful, especially with much forest cover. Due to yesterday's rain, every stream was cascading over the rocks. From lunchtime onwards the sun was out so all in all, this could be my best cycling day yet.
I knew I had to arrive in Powis by 5:30 pm for final entry. Just west of Welshpool was the edge of the mountains so for my last few exhausted km, I was able to race along in sixth gear [smallest cog on a six-speed freewheel, likely twelve teeth, and a 42 tooth chainring]. I think I must have gone downwards for 25 km. Going up wasn't bad either. I'd be pedaling along at a moderate pace in second gear thinking I was on level road but with tired legs. I'd look back to see how steep the incline actually was. A very good feeling.
I made it to Powis by 5:25 pm. This was the home of 'Clive of India' and the other Clives. It was another lavish home - especially the state bedroom. As the place closed by 6 pm I was unable to see the gardens. I asked at the castle where I'd find a B&B but they sent me 16 km north so I cycled south along my route to almost the border and Offa's Dyke and found a place which had room for me. The beautiful house, as it turned out, had been built in the 1700s. Neat-o. I was even able to put Bike inside.
As soon as I got in, I had a nice hot bath to soothe my very weary bones. I went to find supper but found nothing. I came back to the house where they made for me a fine selection of fresh salad stuffs, cheeses, and fruit. It was fantastic not to have a drop of oil. This is the first time I've had a salad while I've been on the bike.
I came right up to the room to change, wash my clothes for tomorrow, pack away unnecessary stuff and drop into a fine bed. When I was shown the rooms, I had the choice of a room with a view or a warm room. Guess which I've chosen? The first warm room since I've been on the cycle, too. This seems to be a fine choice. It is.
If I can move tomorrow, I'm heading for the Stratford area. If I really push, I'll make it by Tuesday. Otherwise, I'll arrive Wednesday. The way things are going, it seems that I may be able to cycle south of London to see the sights just north of the coast then right up to Hadleigh rather than going by train. This is great. I'd still be there by Thursday or Friday of next week.
Today's ride: 128 km (79 miles)
Total: 651 km (404 miles)
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