June 14, 2018
Day 80: Lille to Ieper (Ypres)
We started off from our less than impressive neighbourhood in the south of Lille, in search of the old town. At first we found ourselves fighting for space on the road, between traffic and construction. Then we were on broad boulevards, which actually did have bike lanes. But it was just general cityscape - not ugly, just not too special. We thought we might be coming to "something", when a church spire appeared in the distance, but this turned out to be just an ordinary church, and closed by construction/renovation too.
Finally things looked up, as we rolled into Old Lille, which is anchored by a large square, called the Grand Place. This has 17th century merchants' houses standing around it, as well as a glittering gold coloured theatre. The streets about were also interesting, narrowish, and cobbled. Very nice, actually but it must be admitted that after yesterday and the dash to downtown today from our B&B, we were feeling down on northern France - with its spotty bike lanes and lack of cycle signage. We were thereby not fully receptive to the beauty of Old Lille.
| Heart | 2 | Comment | 0 | Link |
We had already decided to mistrust the tracks we had made at home, but that became irrelevant when we also changed our destinations. Instead of going next toward Ghent we decided to divert westward to Ypres. Ypres was really in the thick of the WWI battles, and seemed appropriate as part of our tracking northward along the battle line.
The Michelin departmental map showed us a bike route to Ypres, starting from the Citadel in Lille. So we went there and took off on what looked like a bike path. There was no signage to give even a hint of where to go. The map showed that we would follow the (canalized) river Deule, so to the extent that we saw that canal and were off road, it was all good. All that good came to an end when we simultaneously came to our first bike sign, proudly proclaiming Eurovelo 5, and the "Veloroute de la Deule". This was also the point where the path ended. As you can see from the photo, we had come 2 km!
| Heart | 0 | Comment | 0 | Link |
Now with the departmental map in hand, we noodled off into the extensive exurbs of Lille. It seemed a repeat of yesterday, and Dodie - our super navigator - was saying "I wanna go home!".
We zigged and zagged and got to Marquette, officially only about 8 km out. It had taken an hour and a half. At Marquette we encountered another sign, again touting the Veloroute. We were just starting out on the canal side path indicated by the sign when a runner warned us that they were cutting trees along it and it was impassable. But the path on the other side should work, and we could cross back in 2 km at the "yellow bridge". At the yellow bridge we started to cross, but again, no signs. Since we knew we needed to trend east, we decided to stick on the side we were on. But the path did not really continue (on either side), so here we were wandering off into the never never again.
This is a low point in the tale. Not that the Grampies will ever quit, they always just keep bashing their heads against the wall. And anyway, it's not as if we can phone the sag wagon! So we staggered on, and followed highway signs for Comines, which we felt was on the route. What turned out to be 7 1/2 km from Comines we were more or less wandering. But then what felt like a giant hand came, pulled us upright, put us on the route, and seemed to shove us on. What was that hand? Belgium! We had staggered across the border, into the realm of "RAVeL", which stands for Reseau Autonome de Voies Lentes. It's the Belgian organization responsible for bike routes. With Ravel at work in the background, we immediately had a separate bike path, with signs at every intersection showing the destinations and distances. After that we pretty much just cruised into Ypres (Iper).
Like Lille, Ieper has a central square, called the Grote Markt. This is something really unique. At one end is a fabulous building called the Cloth Hall, which was a covered cloth market. It was originally built in 1304. Surrounding the market square are presumably former merchants houses. Behind the Cloth Hall is St. Martin's Cathedral. The thing about all this is that it was totally destroyed in WW I. But a decision was taken to rebuild it exactly as it was, and today it looks totally authentic and beautiful. Of course by now it is also about 100 years old, so it is becoming venerable in its own right.
Our hotel, the Hotel Tom, is right on the square. We paid what we consider to be the premium price of 90 euros, without breakfast, to be right in the centre of town. The old building had no place for bikes, but the owner assured us that there is no bike theft here. We would have to chain up outside.
Today, the Cloth Hall (which is a huge building) houses the "In Flanders Fields" museum. Of course, the name derives not only from the fact that we are in West Flanders, but from the famous poem by Canadian John McRae. We took advantage of our central location to go to the museum.
The display technique and content of In Flanders Fields is totally excellent. Their standard display cases are tall and large and well lit, with clear labelling of what is inside. They have many photographic panels, containing large scenes, and they have diorama type displays in the middle of the floor space. Probably best of all are life sized video screens that present actors in costume portraying soldiers of all sides and describing aspects of their experience in the war. The actors on screen walk out of a dark background and into perfect lighting, making it really seem that they are standing in front of you. This technique brings the whole thing to life in a very dramatic way.
According to the museum floor plan, there are 36 topics covered. These have names like First Battle of Ypres, Ypres in Ruins, Christmas Truce, Medical Care, Prisoners of War, Behind the Lines, Fighting Machines, etc. etc.
The museum's amazingly good displays seem to go on and on, and you come to realize that no expense or effort has been spared in putting this together. Then just when you think you may have at least walked through (if not absorbed) it all, there is a large independent display about archaeology as applied to the battle sites. Again, it's a grabbing and extensive presentation.
| Heart | 0 | Comment | 0 | Link |
| Heart | 0 | Comment | 0 | Link |
Back out in the square, we went to a Belgian chocolate shop. But we were so hungry it would have cost really a lot to buy the quantity we would inhale. So we paradoxically left with none. Instead we went to a supermarket and bought a pile of real food. It's better for us, I guess, but we will eventually have to do some chocolate.
We also checked out a bakery. Bread there was totally different from in France. In northern France we found the bread to be poor, so maybe this will be better.
We see that the town (or at least the square) is awash in school groups, mostly British. It seems each group ends up at the ice cream shop on the corner. We saw them serve up hundreds of cones today. What a great business!
| Heart | 2 | Comment | 0 | Link |
At the east end of the square, in the direction you would go to travel to the nearby town of Menin, is what is known as the Menin Gate. This is a war memorial in the form of an arch over the road. This is in the place of former gates, with other names, that have formed the boundary of the town since the 17th century. On the walls of the arch are inscribed the names of Commonwealth soldiers who have no graves. There are 54,896 of these. They are not all - the gate only extends to August 1917. A further 34,984 are at Tyne Cot Cemetery at Passchendaele, 15 km from here.
Every evening at 8 there is a ceremony at the gate for the sounding of the Last Post. This has been going on continuously (except for during the German occupation) since November 11, 1929. I walked over, leaving Dodie to rest her knees. I could hear the scene well before I arrived at it. Perhaps 1000 people were gathered and there was a huge hubub as they chatted and waited for 8 p.m. It seems that even after 100 years the impact of the Great War continues. A large proportion of the audience was comprised of school kids. Maybe they are learning something from coming here, but they seemed to just be contributing disproportionately to the hubub with giggling and chattering.
Except for beginning by calling for silence, few words are spoken and the ceremony is brief. But of course, the Last Post is always moving.
| Heart | 1 | Comment | 0 | Link |
Here is a bit of the last post from today. The man in the frame later said the "exhortation", but there is no information on his background.
“They shall grow not old, as we that are left grow old.
Age shall not weary them, nor the years condemn.
At the going down of the sun and in the morning,
We will remember them.”
Today's ride: 50 km (31 miles)
Total: 5,308 km (3,296 miles)
| Rate this entry's writing | Heart | 9 |
| Comment on this entry | Comment | 5 |
6 years ago
The Exhortation is referred to as The Ode here in Oz and is recited daily in every RSL (Returned and Services League Club) at 6PM followed by The Last Post. We last heard it in Echuca on our recent ride when we visited the local RSL for a meal. All the Australian soldiers were volunteers as I suspect were your own countrymen.
Mike
6 years ago
6 years ago
I looked up Taps on Youtube and yes, it's the song we sang at the end of Girl Guide meetings.
Funny how we are products of our similar but different cultures.
Jacquie
6 years ago
There was a large contingency of Canadian solider and I think Yorkshire. They marched at the beginning of the ceremony and at the end the bulgers played an answer and reply.
6 years ago