May 6, 2018
Day 41: St Maurin to Le-Mas d'Agenais
Léo and Stephanie came to the road to send us off. The morning was very foggy, not the best for finding our way along the various roads leading back to the canal. Léo had provided a map, which we followed until we realized that in the fog we had missed a turn. From there the GPS was called on to save the day.
| Heart | 4 | Comment | 0 | Link |
We returned to the canal somewhat east of where Léo must have intended for us, but no matter. The canal at this point, of course, is straight cycling with no tricks and especially no mud. After a while a perfect path can become tiring, or at least boring. In this case the trees and water were definitely lovely, but what could be found for excitement?
The first option was a change of trees. The canal is lined with plane trees, but off to the sides we found plantations of poplars.
Next, at Agen, was a bridge carrying the canal over the Garonne. This "pont canal" is over 1/2 km long - the second longest in France. The pont canal is a historical monument. It was first proposed during the reign of Louis XIV, and finally built between 1820 and 1843.
We walked the bridge, but even 1/2 km only lasts so long. Now what? Ok, how about more trees? This time apples and cherries nicely pruned and protected under nets. There were acres and acres of these.
Eventually we would return to our old favourite entertainment, observing the other cyclists. In the past few days there have been increasing numbers of touring cyclists, maybe three dozen per day. Those that are approaching may or may not say hello, but they never stop. Most, like those in the photo, are pretty intense:
| Heart | 0 | Comment | 0 | Link |
At one point a cyclist, going in our direction, stopped nearby as we ate a snack. Our practiced eye observed the Ortlieb rear bags, and the lack of front ones, plus an obvious rack top tent bag. " I wonder where she puts a sleeping bag?", I mused. "Must be waiting for partner, and the partner will have the sleeping bags", was Dodie's view. Sure enough, soon a young man cycled up, the other half of the pair, and he had two more Ortlieb rear bags. Now it made sense. The couple set off, and we didn't see them again for some time. But in Buzet sur Baize we came upon them, checking out an information billboard covering the canal path. We introduced ourselves, to Charlene and Nicholas. Their bags were brand new and it turned out this is their first cycle trip. They are doing Toulouse to Bordeaux, which is a great all paved and all off road route of about 250 km. With those new bags, I asked what their next trip might be, and they surmised the Loire a Velo.
We gave Charlene and Nicholas some tips about navigation websites, the Eurovelo system, and the various published guidebooks. It's encouraging to see new, young people entering the sport. We looked on fondly as they cycled off. There is no way we could or would keep up with them!
| Heart | 4 | Comment | 2 | Link |
6 years ago
Email us at shadybrook@shaw.ca if later you think we can help you about maps and GPS.
6 years ago
| Heart | 2 | Comment | 1 | Link |
6 years ago
All during the day we had been cycling with a rather intoxicating aroma in the air. This came from the blossoms of a medium sized tree, growing among the large Plane trees. Here are the flowers - does anyone know what this tree is?
| Heart | 4 | Comment | 2 | Link |
http://www.honeytraveler.com/single-flower-honey/black-locust-acacia-honey/
----->Bill
6 years ago
6 years ago
Lacking too much other excitement, it seemed to take quite a while to reach Le-Mas d'Agenais. The town is a major depot of the "Le Boat" people, which probably explains why we found a B&B here, in an area that did not seem to have much accommodation.
| Heart | 0 | Comment | 0 | Link |
It was a short, steep climb up toward the centre of Le-Mas d'Agenais. It is a three bakery town, but our B&B "Le Dormeur du Val" is close to the beginning of town and so we have not yet seen all that is here. We did drop in at the St. Vincent church, an easy choice since it is right next door. The church's big claim to fame is a Rembrandt Christ on the Cross painting from 1631. Unfortunately this is currently on loan in Bordeaux. I did think the church featured a goodly number of statues, though, including one unique one in colour.
| Heart | 0 | Comment | 0 | Link |
| Heart | 0 | Comment | 0 | Link |
Le Dormeur du Val is another of those large old houses that are serving as B&Bs. These usually offer large rooms and high ceilings with antique touches in furniture or construction. We found that all here, plus a cluttered, eclectic decor that made the place feel very homey. Lucie, the owner, matched the place (or more likely vice versa). She has traveled widely, seemingly in the US mostly, and has filled the house with many books.
Although we think she probably speaks good English, her French is easy to understand, so it is better for us to have her speak only in French. Elsewhere, you would have to pay for language training like that.
The internet here is fast, so it would be tempting to stay up surfing, or maybe patching past errors and omissions in this blog. But we have both declared ourselves pooped, so we will take advantage of the comfortable and quiet room and settle down for a long and restful night!
Today's ride: 85 km (53 miles)
Total: 2,701 km (1,677 miles)
| Rate this entry's writing | Heart | 7 |
| Comment on this entry | Comment | 4 |
6 years ago
6 years ago
6 years ago
6 years ago