WHAT can say about today's ride. Almost impossible times but the payoff was definitely worth it.
I was awake early and raring to go but soon after 7 am it started to rain, and then was raining in earnest. Like last night, today's forecast showed that the rain would stop and the sun would come out some time between 9 am and 10 am. So I impatiently waited, and sure enough, shortly after 9 am the rain stopped, the sky brightened and when I started to see wee patches of blue, I packed up my things to go.
It was very humid and very hazy but also quite warm so my jacket was soon strapped to the back of my bike. The route took me through agricultural land where there were a number of greenhouses, possibly for growing strawberries.
I overshot a ninety degree turn in the road so had to backtrack a wee bit to get onto the dirt road. Which became sandy. Which became soft sand. And all of a sudden I was dragging my bike through a beautiful forested soft sandy path. I debated going back but when I checked my map I saw that this path would eventually take me towrd the sea - and I could certainly hear the waves crashing somewhere ahead. So, I plodded along not unlike Alex and I did a couple of years ago. Had I not been solo this time I would have turned back, but I figured I did not have all that long a day overall so I could handle some tribulations.
I emerged from the forest to even deeper and softer sand so dragged my faithful bike along behind me as wet sand started to get stuck on everything and into my shoes. The path climbed a bit and then the most amazing scenery presented itself - spectacularly craggy cliffs leading down to huge waves crashing against the base of them. This cove and the next and many more to come were more and more beautofu as I went, and the path snaked around the top of the cliff so I had endless views of one cove and cliff after another. Plus, by now the sun was fully out and skies were clear. Because I was so slow in my progress, I actually saw a number of walkers - again, this was a busy section and overall in the day I saw some tens of walker and maybe a dozen cyclists.
I asked one German walker coming the opposite way if she knew if there was a road nearby and she pointed to a spot about 200 m away where yes, there was an escape from the quicksand. I stopped there to remove the sand from my shoes when a walking couple from Seattle stopped to ask if I wanted my photo taken and vice-versa. We chatted a bit then continued along. A lighthousse was a short ways away and my route brought me right alongside it on the road, then a path, now packed sand, was the order of the day. Again, it snaked along the top of the cliff with its impressive views, but this time I could pedal along though carefully so I wouldn't come around the corner and unpleasantly shock a walker.
The path worsened once more as it had many puddles after this mornning's heavy rain so I had to navigate around them and do my best not to end up swimming in one. I stayed upright. A walking path continued but was not passable on a bike so I got onto the road which seemed so fast after the slow progress on the sandy trails. And not nearly as scenic. When I saw a picnic area ahead I stopped, hoping that the tap was working - which it was. I was there quite a while flling my bottles with water so I could rinse the sand off of the bike. I wanted the bike generally clean, but I particularly wanted sand out of the drivetrain. Things ran much smoother afterwards.
While I was stopped at the fountain, two women came walking along and stoopped to chat. They are almost finished their camino. From Glasgow, it was a treat to simply listen to them speak with their accents. We all continued on our way with the possibility to meet up in Zambujeira if we saw one another.
Within annother ten minutes I was to town so explored the few restaurants I could see. There was a traditional Portuguese one so I pulled in and had rice with duck and a sip of red wine. Still nice out, I decided to head to the wall overlooking the cove at the town's edge and to get a few photos before heading up through the centre. It was then that I saw Yves and Laura (Scotland) who waved me to their table. I joined them for a drink while they had their lunch then just chatted and enjoyed the views across the water. They head to Odeceixe tomorrow then bus south for their final few days before heading home.
I felt I knew the direction to my guest house so worked my way to town's edge and sure enough it was right where I left it last time I was here. I buzzed in, unloaded the bike, then got my room. I asked the hostess if she happened to have any type of oil - she checked her work closet and sure enough, there was some kind of motor or engine oil that will be perfect. I'll be able to sort my chain tomorrow so it doesn't protest so much from being lubrication-free.
I was not sure if the 'non-paved' section was going to be good solid gravel/sand or mushy and deep. Let's just say that I had to drag my bike along behind me for quite a ways. -- near Almograve, Portugal
I was not sure if the 'non-paved' section was going to be good solid gravel/sand or mushy and deep. Let's just say that I had to drag my bike along behind me for quite a ways. -- near Almograve, Portugal
Though the path was extremely difficult to navigate because the sand just kept getting softer and deeper, the views were absolutely breathtaking. -- near Almograve, Portugal
Though the path was extremely difficult to navigate because the sand just kept getting softer and deeper, the views were absolutely breathtaking. -- Cavaleiro, Portugal
It was very obvious where the trail was, though there were official markers every few tens of metres along to indicate the route. -- Cavaleiro, Portugal
Most official route marers were on wooden posts but at this rest spot a perfectly located rock proved the perfect marker. I rested here as I had emerged alive from the mushy sand section. -- Cavaleiro, Portugal
Before reaching the end of the dirt path, things started to deteriorate with many deep puddles. I made sure to dismount the bike to avoid an unwanted swim. -- Cavaleiro, Portugal
As soon as I got to town I rode around checking out restaurants and choe this Portuguese one where I ordered the Prata do dia - rice with duck, and vinho tinto. -- Zambujeira do Mar, Portugal
Steve Miller/GrampiesWell here we are, little the worse for wear. Your day sounds challenging also, but much more beautiful from the photos. Reply to this comment 1 month ago
