AS PER my surprise yesterday - this place has a breakfast. It was quite decent with meats, cheese, breads, yogourt and the sweetest and juiciest of oranges. Portugal has the best oranges and the best clementines ever.
I chatted a bit with the server who came from Nepal with her husband two years ago. It seems the huge superpower nearby is causing their country some grief. Sounds way too familiar.
I gobbled up my goodies then zipped upstairs to get ready and pack up my gear before carrying the loaded bike down the stairs and out the door. I was ready to ride and excited to do so. According to the weather network it was about 7 C, but with such bright sun and with the wind at my back, I had to unzip shortly after I got going in order to cool down. A few times I was about to remove the coat, and probably could have, but never quite got to that point. Likely because I took the day quite leisurely.
Usually when I tour I keep an eye on how far I have gone and know how far I have to go. Both yesterday and today I only kept an eye on my thin pink line on my GPS to be sure I was on track. It was only when I saw distance markers (which are rare here) or when I arrived at Sines that I knew how close I was.
This morning's ride was the type of ride that if anyone were to write an uplifting poem about cycle touring, then this was the day that they would. The way the sun filtered through the pines, the aromas of the pines and eucalyptus, the gently rolling terrain, the infrequent traffic and the sound of the whir of the chain through the components. Magical.
Before long I started to see people lining the streets, the GNR stationed at intersections directing traffic away, and cones set up along the road. I stopped to ask and found that there was a triathlon being run today (swimming, running and cycling all in one competition). They said I could continue along for the time being. More rolling hills, more and more people along the route. Until I came to a spot where the GNR said I could not continue since the road was closed. I asked if he knew a route for me to get to Sines but he did not. I headed out in search of one.
I tried a parallel road but it seemed to end at a grove of trees, so I returned back a km to a hotel I had seen where I asked. The desk clerk thought there 'might' be a way through but to ask at the race track at the end of the road. I returned to the race track where I asked and sure enough - they said there was a dirt path through the trees that eventually came to a road. So I continued on with fingers crossed.
The path was a somewhat soft sand path but nowhere near as bad as when Alex and I dragged our bikes through the sand a couple of years ago. As long as I was careful, I could pedal along. The path met another path at a T so I turned right to head to the blocked highway and turned 90 degrees to follow alongside the highway until it reached a highway at 90 degrees. The road was blocked but when I asked the GNR said the route across the highway then continued along to Sines. So I followed his directions.
I started to see some buildings then some big box grocery stores and hamburger chains so I knew I had reached Sines. The GPS route meandered to and fro until I came to some cobbled streets and old buildings. Then I could see a castlely looking wall ahead and it donned on me that I must be near the fortress. Sure enough, right in the vicinity was the awesome little restaurant Adega da Sines where I had gone in 2019. Unfortunately, they are closed today and do not open until noon tomorrow so the timing does not work out. Sad, because it is literally the building adjacent to my guest house. As I stood there admiring the place, the door opened and there was the old fellow who owned the place and had given me a brandy back in 2019. Of course, he did not know me but I told him that I had enjoyed the restaurant those years ago.
I messaged my host who quickly opened up and ushered me through the doorway into a beautiful courtyard. A really nice fellow, we chatted about things going on in the world, then suggested a family-run restaurant a few blocks away, O Beicinho.
It had been some hours and 50+ km since I last ate so this was a great idea. When I arrived to the restaurant it was very non-descript (good!) and when I stepped in I could see that the small space was packed (good!) with locals (good!). I was brought to a small table at the back where I ordered the cuttlefish stew which was absolutely amazing. I had it with a small glass of wine which was a perfect match.
Random AoKs need not involve money. As I was finishing my meal I could see a man and a young boy (13 yrs old) standing at the bar looking at a C$5 bill. I started to chat with them, and found that another Canadian had gifted the bill to them when they found out the young boy was interested in geography and history. I chatted with them for a while to find the man is the owner's son and this was his son with him. The young lad was interested in where I was going but was fairly shy to try out his english though he spoke it very well. He was nevertheless proud to share his knowledge of Canada and hear more about it and noticeably enjoyed the conversation.
After chatting a bit, I went in search of a market for dessert then headed toward Vasco da Gama Blvd which runs alongside the bay. The day was beautiful and the sun reflected off the water so it sparkled. Have I said I love being near the sea?
I walked back toward the fortress and the statue of Vasco da Gama, up past where I had stayed in 2019 (closed now when their business could not survive the pandemic) and around the corner to the guest house. I sat in the beautiful little courtyard for a while until the owner came out and showed me to my room. Which is VERY nice, indeed.
As the sun was setting I headed out along the hilltop then down along Praia Vasco da Gama. Lights were coming on, bobbing vessels in the harbour had their lights on, and the waves were gently lapping onto the vast sandy beach. I could see to the distant southeast where I'd be heading tomorrow, basically to the start of the Fisherman's Trail and along south from there.
The way the sun filters through the misty morning and through the pines - shows why I like doing this cycling thingy! -- Carvalhal, Portugal
I remember coming to that exact grove of pine trees in 2019 when the skies dumped and drenched everything and me. I stayed a slight bit less wet than a drowned rat. Today was better. -- Santo Andre, Portugal
Because of a triathlon, part of the main road (the one I needed) was closed to ALL traffic so I had to find an alternative route which meant some sand and puddles until I found my way back to some tarmac roads. -- Santo Andre, Portugal
You'd never guess how great this place is unless you were told or knew how to find 'authentic' restaurants. If the locals are there, it will impress: yes and yes. -- Sines, Portugal
