October 24, 2024
October 24, 2024 - Madrid to Mérida by bike and train
Oh, those wily Romans
Apartamentos Harmonia, Calle Delgado Valencia 6, Planta 1-Local 1, 06800 Merida, Spain
LET'S just say it's a good thing for alarms. The time was offset from our brains, the room was dark and the sunrise is not until about 830 am. I was awake and asleep on and off all night but when the 8 am alarm sounded - I was in the deepest of sleeps so was completely befuddled.
We had budgeted all kinds of time so I went out to speak with the owner to ensure she was going to store our bike boxes for us - yup. Then we trundled our stuff down the three flights of stairs and elevator where we loaded up the bikes, and did the first last-minute adjustments to them. Even so, there were a few things not quite right so we stopped a few times to re-adjust. Calle Atocha was previously a two-way street but now was mostly one-way and also very busy. So rather than starting out in early rush hour chaos, we walked our bikes the two km to the Atocha railway station.
It was the Atocha Cercanias that we neeed and as soon as we got there, we could see that very sign so in we went. The woman in the first booth confirmed this was the way to our train. After a quick snack in one of the food shops we took the escalators down to the waiting concourse until fifteen minutes prior to departure when our train was listed on track 4.
Down the other escalator, we easily found coach 2, hung the bikes on the hooks and made our way to seats 90 and 91 on our Media Distancia train. There was no wifi on the train and I had no sim card so I could not see if our Merida hostal had sent instructions, but it also allowed us to enjoy the countryside. Everywhere was very arid and the further south we traveled, the more numerous were the olive groves until they were everywhere.
After the penultimate stop in Cáceres, we took down the bikes and loaded on the bags so we would be ready to disembark when we arried in Mérida. Right on time we pulled in to the station, rolled off then prepared and started to cycle our way to our apartment. Using the GPS, it was only moments before we were at the front door, but unfortunately, having no sim card and no wifi, I had no way to contact the place to find out how to get in. We did manage to get into the lobby and shortly thereafter another guest emerged from a room and he was kind enough to phone the owners who gave us the instructions to open the street door, the reception door, and finally the lockbox for the key to our room. As is the case with many accommodations these days, there is nobody in a reception and everything is automated and based on key codes. Kind of impersonal. This being said, this place is beautiful and roomy and is very reasonably priced. A great place for our two days to discover this Roman gem of a city.
After dumping our gear we headed out for a wee stroll around the old centre. Right beside our hostal were the ruins of an old Roman road. We headed toward the river where we crossed the 2000 year old Roman bridge, where we had beautiful views back to the city. Back into the city we meandered back streets and stumbled upon another old Roman monument. These Romans were industrious fellows.
Getting a bit hungry we were wondering what to do when Alex spotted a gaming-themed restaurant so we popped in for a bite to eat and to chat with the owner. I had picked up an Orange sim card earlier so we were able to translate a few things in our discussion with them.
After we dinner we just wandered the back streets and popped in to a few Extrmeños tiendas where they sold local goods - jamon iberico, olives, numerous quesos and of course, wines of all sorts.
Now back in our room, we can see and hear a vendor selling something just outside our window in the square, but aren't sure what it is. My guess is roasted chestnuts, but he has a tarp overhead so we cannot see what he is cooking though it smells savoury and not sweet.
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Today's ride: 12 km (7 miles)
Total: 17 km (11 miles)
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