A Love Song to the Upper Peninsula - Me & The U.P. - CycleBlaze

A Love Song to the Upper Peninsula

Inspired Poetry

On my third day of riding in the U.P, about half-way through 28 consecutive miles of nothing but forest, I came up with a couplet based on Joyce Kilmer's "Trees."  It went something like this:

I think that I shall never see
As many view-blockers as I see in the U.P.

I was enjoying the trees for the first hour or so, but the monotony started getting to me.  As I pedaled, I kept adding lines to my poem in my head.  I do that a lot.  Rhymes come to me for no discernable reason while riding my bike, and I have to believe that happens to other bike trippers too. 

Anyway, when I got to my campsite at the end of the day, I tried to remember some of my rhymes, got out my pen and notebook, and composed a legitimate 12-line poem.  Under the influence of three Two Hearted Ales, I thought my poem might just be the thing that earns me my first Pulitzer Prize.  Fortunately, I came to my senses when it came time to enter my post for that day into the computer machine.

So, despite what I wrote yesterday, it seems I DO have the ability to edit myself when necessary.  Especially when it comes to avoiding embarrassment.

Then today came along.  I have a Grand Sweeping Conclusion to write and I seem to have writer's block.  I feel everything that needs to be said about the U.P. is already in my journal.  Desperate, I reviewed my notebook for new material.  There it was:  my poem.  Against all better judgement, I'm going to post the thing in its entirety.

Ode to Trees

I think that I shall never see
As many view-blockers as I see in the U.P.
The trees are looming everywhere I look,
In every cranny, behind every nook.
At the top of every hill I'm shocked,
To find another view that's blocked.
How could Kilmer shower trees with praise,
While I look upon them with malaise?
Yet somehow these trees inspire me
To compose this brilliant poetry.  (Poe-a-tree?)
I guess my inner Dickinson soars,
When in the Church of the Great Outdoors.
TREES
Heart 6 Comment 2
marilyn swettLove the poem! But those view-blockers can also give you welcome shade on those hot sunny days as well as cover from rain when the branches meet to form a green tunnel.
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4 months ago
Gregory GarceauTo marilyn swettI did admit to the positive features of view-blockers at the beginning of this journal, but you brought up a new one with the "cover from rain." Thank you for that.
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4 months ago

Signs of Happiness

I also edited out one of my favorite pictures of the whole trip.  Well, I didn't edit it so much as I missed it when uploading photos that day.  I didn't discover the omission until the next day.  Rather than insert it into the page where it belonged, where I knew nobody would go back to see a page they've already read, I decided to save it for my Grand Sweeping Conclusion.  

I've written this in previous journals, but here it is again.  When I do a headstand, you KNOW I'm happy with where I am. 

Heart 8 Comment 3
marilyn swettI don't think I could even DO a headstand anymore!
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4 months ago
Emily SharpWell done! Did you have to dig a little hole for your head before commencing?
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4 months ago
Gregory GarceauTo Emily SharpNope, my head and body weight created its own little hole. I haven't done a headstand in a while, so I kind of surprised myself that day--not so much that I can still do it, but that I can run out there and do it in the 10-seconds my phone timer gives me.
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4 months ago
Another sign of me being happy is when I smile.
Heart 6 Comment 0

Where Are They Going?

Throughout my trip I was amazed at how many vehicles were carrying bicycles on bike racks and in truck beds.  Yet, other than the two bike tourists I met and a couple of people in Houghton who looked homeless, I didn't see anybody else actually RIDING a bike.

Granted, most of the bikes attached to vehicles were mountain bikes, and they were probably on their way to ride some of the U.P.'s mountain bike trails.  But still . . . what the heck?  How can a destination with so much natural beauty not have thousands of cyclists all over the place?  The TransAmerica route does.  The Pacific coast does.  Much of Europe does.  Why not the U.P.? 

Yoopers Are Super

Yes, I was a Yooper once, and I think I could be one again.
Heart 1 Comment 0

Without exception, every Yooper I talked to was very friendly.  But then, they were mostly customer service personnel.  Store clerks, state park rangers, motel hosts, and pasty shop employees are required to be friendly.  There were a couple of Yooper folks I talked to who weren't in the public relations business, but they were also friendly.  I try to keep such encounters short, so I hope they didn't think I was unfriendly.  (If only Yooper drivers would show a little more friendliness by moving away from the shoulder when passing a biker.)

Final Pasty Analysis

Though a simple mix of spices, diced potatoes, rutabaga, carrots, onions & ground beef in a pie crust might seem pretty rudimentary, I'm here to tell you pasties are a U.P. work of culinary art.  I don't pretend to think they are better than pasties from other mining regions in England, Montana, Arizona, or Australia, but U.P. pasties have their own unique style.  I love them.  Additionally, in my opinion, the pasties made in the western half of the U.P.--the mining half-- are better than the eastern U.P. pasties.  With that in mind, it's a good thing I didn't ride any further east than Marquette.

I didn't achieve my goal of eating a pasty every single day of the tour, but I did manage to consume eight of them in twelve days.  They were all delicious, but I have to break it down to the top five.

#5:  The pasty at Syl's place in Ontonogan was good, but the thick crust wasn't optimal.  It was the only place I ate one indoors.  The atmosphere was small-town-great and the server was extra bubbly.

#4:  There were many things to like at Roy's in Houghton.  I liked the largish chunks of carrot, but the turn off was the sliced potato vs. diced potato.  In the end, the potato was a little mushy.  Too bad, because the crust was really good.

#3:  Rigoni's Bakery in Ironwood served up a fine pasty.  Its only drawback was that it's located in the same town as Joe's Pasties, which is "the pasty that made pasties famous."

#2:  You'd think the pasty shop that served the pasty that made pasties famous would be at the top of the list, but not so fast there.  No doubt, the pasty I ate just outside Joe's Pasties in Ironwood was excellent.  It was damn near perfect--crispy crust, a decent amount of flavorful grease, nice chunks of ground beef, perfectly diced potatoes, nice oniony flavor.  What's not to like?

#1:  And the winner is . . . Lawry's Pasties in Marquette.  I think the thing that set Lawry's apart from Joe's was the spices.  The meat was slightly more generous too.  That's why I bought a dozen of their frozen pasties to bring home.  Extra credit goes to Lawry's for selling me a brick of dry ice so I could keep the pasties frozen in my pannier for two hours in a U-Haul and five more hours after I picked up my car and drove back to MY town. 

Four pasties in each of the larger bags, and a one-pound brick of dry ice in the small bag.
Heart 3 Comment 3
Karen PoretLawry’s was the winner because of the spices..DUH..Why do you think Lawry’s Seasoning Salt is so spectacular? No connection, probably, but I couldn’t resist the name phreakism . Besides, how many Lawry’s do you know? Really.. :)
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4 months ago
Gregory GarceauTo Karen PoretI absolutely did not make the Lawry's Spices/Lawry's Pasties connection. But you're probably right . . . there IS no connection. Great comment.
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4 months ago
Karen PoretTo Gregory GarceauWhat a hoot! A gal at my exercise class today had a sweatshirt on that said “ copper harbor”… I didn’t know it’s in the U.P! The zip code was hidden in the middle of the sweatshirt, with MI above it. I commented about pasties and she said “ oh, we ALL have our favorite places to get those delicacies”.. “ mine will remain unknown” 😳
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4 months ago

Well, that's about all I have to say about my modest bike trip.  I truly enjoyed all of it.  Even the rain, thunderstorms, and view-blockers added a little extra something.  So did the hiking and camping and dilly-dallying.

Thank you for reading.  I hope to squeeze in another local tour before the end of the year. 

Rate this entry's writing Heart 11
Comment on this entry Comment 18
Kathleen JonesThanks for sharing. Good luck with your father.
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4 months ago
Bill ShaneyfeltI eagerly await your next entertaining journey.
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4 months ago
Mark BinghamThanks for bringing us along. Great fun!
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4 months ago
marilyn swettThanks for the pasty review! We'll keep that in mind when we are in that area. Perhaps we can discover more places to add to the list:)
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4 months ago
George (Buddy) HallA successful and inspirational tour - it made me want to tour in the U.P. some day. Congratulations on completing it, thanks for sharing it with us all.
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4 months ago
Gregory GarceauTo Kathleen JonesThank you, Kathleen. The oncology appointment should be fine. He has a relatively mild form of cancer. It's the dementia that's more concerning at this point.
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4 months ago
Gregory GarceauTo marilyn swettI look forward to hearing about your pasty discoveries. You can always report them on this guestbook.
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4 months ago
Gregory GarceauTo George (Buddy) HallThank you. The U.P. is an underrated, yet worthy, destination.
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4 months ago
Kathleen JonesTo Gregory GarceauBeen there with the dementia. Sending good thoughts your way.
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4 months ago
Kelly IniguezSomehow in all of the pastie talk, I missed that they were a mining area food. That makes sense why we saw several pastie shops in Anaconda, MT. I wondered how they got transplanted clear out west.

I gave up on my wheat free stance (after ten years!) while touring in Europe last year. I've tried to get back on the wagon, but haven't succeeded. It appears Anaconda was my chance to buy one, but we never passed a shop while it was open.

I enjoyed following along with you, as always.
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4 months ago
Karen PoretThanks for telling us all about the rain that existed on YOUR bike tour, which was not like the rest of us who had rain elsewhere ..( Europe)..
Prayers for your Dad, too. As a cancer survivor myself, it is doable, especially because you ARE there for him..
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4 months ago
Emily SharpGreat tour - thanks for showing us the U.P. from your perspective after having spent some years there in your youth. Sorry you had the rain but happy you got some tent time and lots of pasties. What is the make or break part of the pasty - the crust or the filling?

Nigel and I still laugh about an absolutely horrid one I got here in Oz back circa 1999. I didn't have a lot of pasty experience at that point nor many years in Oz, but my goodness, it was terrible (crust and filling)! His sausage roll wasn't much better (that place is gone now).
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4 months ago
Gregory GarceauTo Emily SharpI hate to be a copout but, for me, the most important thing is the crust AND the filling. They're equally important. But mostly the filling. And mostly the crust too. I have the same indecision when asked that question about pizza crust vs. pizza toppings.
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4 months ago
Gregory GarceauTo Kelly IniguezMy wife and I stop at a pasty shop in Butte (another big mining town) every time we drive out to see her family in Spokane. It's not bad, but it's not quite like a U.P. pasty. Maybe next time we'll have to make a short detour to test an Anaconda pasty.
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4 months ago
marilyn swettTo Gregory GarceauWell, we're camping here in Duluth and finally found some pasties to taste at Betty's Pies in Two Harbors.You'd think there would be lots of places that make pasties, but not in this area. We tried a beef pasty. It was ok but I thought the crust was too thick and the gravy too salty. We're headed for Marquette in a few days and plan to continue the pasty taste testing.
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3 months ago
Gregory GarceauTo marilyn swettBetty's Pies is a major north shore landmark--perhaps only 2nd to Split Rock Lighthouse. I had a pasty there maybe 20 years ago and I wasn't too impressed either. And, while I love gravy in general, I'm not a fan of it on my pasty. Gravy won't even be offered as an option in most western U.P. pasty shops. Ketchup is the preferred condiment there. I used to use ketchup all the time, but recently I've come to prefer my pasties straight-up.

By the way, if you make it back to Betty's, I'd recommend a slice of their Triple Berry Pie. That recommendation carries some weight because I normally don't care for pies at all.

Thank you for your pasty update, Marilyn, and keep them coming.
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3 months ago
marilyn swettWe recently were in Marquette, MI and finally had a chance to try Lawry's pasties - the breakfast ones which were good but not traditional, along with the meat and veggie versions. We agree that the meat versions were good although they lacked the carrots and rutabagas. The veggies version were also good - they had the carrots, potatoes and rutabagas. The crust was good on all of those. We also had a beef pasty at a restaurant called The Crossroads. It was also good but the beef was cubed which was weird.
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3 months ago
Gregory GarceauTo marilyn swettI'm glad to hear you made it to Lawrey's. However, their traditional beef pasty actually DOES have rutabaga in it, though the pieces are rather small. So maybe that's why you missed it. It's true they don't have carrot, but that's fairly common in U.P. pasties. Personally, I like when they come with carrots.

And yes, cubed beef is weird. Interestingly, I don't remember that about Crossroads' pasties, but that's probably because it's been about 30 years since they provided about 150 pasties for a big Garceau Family Reunion.
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3 months ago