Day 66 - July 8 - Hamilton, MT to Missoula, MT - Two Old Guys Take On A Continent

July 8, 2023

Day 66 - July 8 - Hamilton, MT to Missoula, MT

How Low Can We Go?

John’s Story

Today was the warmest, or should I say, least, cold, morning we’ve had in quite a while. I didn’t shiver when I got out of a sleeping bag to put my cycling gear on. My hands didn’t throb from the cold as I was making breakfast. I actually put on a short sleeve jersey for the first time in weeks. And when we hit the road, I was only wearing a lightweight windbreaker over that jersey, instead of layering my clothes three or four plies deep.

We are as low as we can go in the Bitterroot Valley. The Bitterroot River empties into the Clear Fork River here at Missoula, so it’s the end of the valley. The elevation at Missoula is about 3,200’. When we leave here on Monday we will go over Lolo Pass at 5,233’, and that will be our highest point (I think) between here and the Pacific Ocean. We will also once and for all cross the Continental Divide to the Pacific side.

The ride today was downhill, since we were following the river, but most of the time the grade was imperceptible. Since we crossed into it the Bitterroot Valley has changed from a deep, narrow canyon to a miles wide fairly flat bottomed valley. We were on the Bitterroot Trail, a paved bike path, all the way from Hamilton to Missoula. When we leave on Monday we will backtrack south about 12 miles on the trail to Lolo so we can head west into Idaho.

This view looks east across the valley about 10 miles south of Missoula toward the Sapphire Mountains. The Bitterroot Mountains are to the west.

I saw a large quail on the path in front of me. It acted a bit like a squirrel, running frantically this way and that indecisively as I approached. It finally remembered it could fly and took off. It was hilarious. I managed to get a video of that quail a bit later.

I found another old fire truck for Ben. It is sitting in a salvage yard near Victor, Montana. I’m pretty sure it is for sale. Should I run back and put a down payment on it?

If you hollowed it out and put in a few windows it would make a pretty nice RV, don’t you think?

Today was a good day for flowers.

It’s been a while since I put in a nice thistle photo.

If I were driving through Kansas and saw this color on the side of the road I would think cornflower.

After entering Missoula we left the trail for a while to run some errands. We went to Cabela’s, which was close by, to save an 8-mile round trip diversion to REI. Ed looked for shoes. We went to our first Missoula brewery, Odd Pitch Brewing.

Not many customers at the brewery for a Saturday afternoon. I engaged in conversation with a woman who came in and ordered the same beer I was drinking. Together we sang the praises of hazy, juicy IPAs. I said that the best beers of that kind that I have tasted come from Maplewood Brewing in Chicago. She said the she was just there last week. Chicago, I asked? Not just that, she said, but Maplewood Brewing. She was visiting her two sons who live in Chicago. Another small world experience.

I tasted all three hazy IPAs on tap before settling on Divine Design.

The folks at Odd Pitch Brewing are Haley’s kind of people. Note the Wi-Fi password.

Just as we were leaving the brewery I noticed the row of pinball machines behind me. I had to spend a couple dollars being beaten by the Terminator.

We finally got to the Motel 6 and checked in. While we were waiting for them to finish cleaning the room, the fellow in the room next door showed up. He is another cyclist biking east to west. He has been stuck in Missoula for 10 days staying at the Motel 6 while he waits for his bicycle to be repaired, pending receipt of some parts by the bike shop. I think he could have ordered the parts himself and had them overnighted to him rather than wait on the shop. But I probably don’t know the whole story. I feel sorry for him, though.

Sun on the Clearfork River as we ride along the Riverfront Trail.

The taps at Draught House. We went to Tamarack Brewing for dinner, and then on to Draught House Brewing to make it three breweries in a one day. At Odd Pitch this afternoon I tasted three hazy IPAs and chose one. I had a hazy IPA with my burger at Tamarack. At Draught House they had four hazy IPAs to choose from plus a couple hazy pale ales. I had a flight of the IPAs so I wouldn’t have to choose. Missoula is evidently ground zero for hazy IPAs. I like it. It’s my favorite beer group, especially if you throw in the word juicy.

Draught House has a bit of a bicycle theme going in their murals.

While at Draught House my sister Dorothy called from California to chat. They had been planning to drive up to Washington/Oregon toward the end of our ride to meet us. Now there’s but a tiny chance that will happen. Sad face, but there’s always a chance. She said it was 99% certain they can’t make it. That leaves 1% still up for grabs. Hope springs eternal.

Ed’s Story

Today’s ride was from Hamilton to Missoula, Montana. But you know that because you read the initial entry of the journal.

This was the warmest morning to wake up in a long time. My hands did not freeze as I made breakfast. I did not even wear my rain jacket to add warmth as it was not needed.

We were on a bike trail the entire way. It was good not having to worry about cars. Although the road had a berm we still need to be on the lookout.

We’re going north on the trail; the cars are going south.

We stopped at the 26 mile point at Glen’s Diner in Florence, Montana. I had pancakes again. I asked how big the pancakes were before I ordered. It turns out these were normal size pancakes.

We continued to ride until we got to Missoula. As we approached Missoula we crossed the Bitterroot River again.

We went to Cabela’s where John bought a freeze dried meal and we bought another fuel canister as we emptied one at breakfast. At the rate we’ve been using them, the two we have now may last through the end of the ride. If not, we will buy one in Portland.

From Cabela’s we went to the mall. I looked at four shoe stores. None of them had the model or size or width of the shoe I needed. Oh well. I added more tape to the shoe and will just keep taping as needed. Two stores offered to order them for me. I said it wouldn’t work, as I am biking cross country.

We then headed to our first brewery of the day. I had an amber and John had another hazy IPA. As we were getting ready to leave John noticed pinball machines behind us and just had to play.

From there it was on to the Motel 6. We had to wait for our room as they were still cleaning it. They upgraded us to a suite with a mini kitchenette at no extra charge to ensure we got a ground floor room.

But there was no soap or shampoo in the bathroom. I had to call the front desk to get some delivered. We’ve also seen the lights above John’s bed don’t work (and not fixed - more updates tomorrow) and no plastic cups. This was the cheapest hotel so I guess you get what you pay for (even at high prices).

After a shower, we laid around the room until it was time to go to church. As I noted yesterday, this was our first Mass in six weeks.

Then on to Tamarack Brewing for dinner and a beer. When dinner was done, we headed to Draught Works for a third beer at the third brewery. I had a flight of 4 beers at the third brewery.

Camino Mexican Lager; Quill Pig (malty); Shadow Caster Amber; Gwin Du Oatmeal Stout.

From there it was back to the hotel, some Netflix watching, and bed. I am going to try to stay up late, so I do not wake up at 6 o’clock.

Tomorrow is a rest day (again) as we still want to try to go to the Adventure Cycling headquarters on Monday. I hope to go to the one bike shop I found that is open on Sunday in the area of the hotel. I want to find something to protect my knees and upper calves from the sun as they are constantly exposed.

Until tomorrow happy resting!

Today's ride: 52 miles (84 km)
Total: 946 miles (1,522 km)

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