Day 61 - July 3 - Alder, MT to Dillon, MT - Two Old Guys Take On A Continent

July 3, 2023

Day 61 - July 3 - Alder, MT to Dillon, MT

Heads and Tails

Ed’s Story

A night and morning of firsts:

- It was warm enough last night I didn’t need to wear socks or wool tights to bed.

- Woke up to a totally dry tent. This hasn’t occurred in a long time.

- I was able use my “dogbone” to hang my food last night.

I won’t bore you with my morning routine because it hasn’t changed.

The ride started well with only light winds so we moved quickly with the down hill. That changed which I’ll discuss later.

We made a brief stop for OJ in Sheridan. We planned a second breakfast in Twin Bridges so we didn’t stay long.

About this time, the wind picked up. The wind wasn’t supposed to shift until later in the day. It was strong enough that we had to pedal going downhill. The one positive to the wind is that after our next stop, we would turn southwest and it would become a tailwind.

We came upon numerous painted signs on fences by driveways off the highway. I asked a couple who were leaving their driveway what they were, and I was told they were barn quilts.

According to Google, barn quilts are a form of Americana folk art that can have a couple of different meanings. Some are made in dedication to a specific person and hung up on a family barn. Others may represent a family as a whole. Barn quilts are a reminder of family, community, and love.

I guess the quilts are hung at the road because nobody can see their barns.

We stopped in Two Bridges for a second breakfast. I ordered 2 small pancakes and hash browns. The waitress said the small pancakes were huge and recommended only one.

Note how big the small pancake was. It covered the plate. I’d hate to see a big one.

The radiator fences look better than mine at home. Maybe I’ll come back after the ride and take them.

We turned southwest towards Dillon, had a tail wind, and were cruising at 16+ mph. We soon came upon Beaverhead Rock.

Observation dates back to Lewis and Clark time and earlier.

Finally arrived in Dillon. We went to the post office and picked up our packages. Since the brewery wasn’t open we went to and checked in at the hotel, Beaverhead Lodge. I asked for and got a ground floor room. It used to be a Motel 6.

Has plenty of room for bikes between the beds and the wall.

Unloaded the bikes, showered and headed towards the Beaverhead Brewery.

While we were walking to the theater we saw some wall art.

We saw the new Indiana Jones movie, Dial of Destiny. It was reminiscent of his earlier movies and much better than the last one, Kingdom of the Crystal Skull. As my daughter’s friend Kim said “Saw the new Indiana Jones movie. If you like Nazis, the moon landing, time travel and an old man Harrison Ford in his underwear give it a try.”

We walked to a restaurant called Asian Mix where they served a variety of Asian ethnic food. Very good.

Tomorrow is a rest day here in Dillon. Hopefully everything won’t be closed for the 4th of July. We already verified the brewery is open….score!

Until tomorrow, happy resting!

John’s Story

I’d like to start out today’s entry by talking more about our hill climb yesterday. In our conversations with other travelers since the climb, and I’m talking about motorists here, they all described it as one of the worst climbs they’ve experienced in their travels. When I was in line at the grocery store checkout yesterday in Ennis before we started the climb, the elderly woman in front of me in line noticed I was dressed like a bicyclist and asked if I was doing the VC. VC I asked? The hill to Virginia City she clarified. Yes, ma’am. She put her hand on my arm and solemnly invoked “God bless you!” Other reactions to the same news ranged from that blessing to “Holy shit!”. Some people told us they saw us riding up the hill as they were driving in the same direction and were concerned for us. They did notice our bright blinking tail lights and were impressed by how attention-getting they are.

While we were stopped in Twin Bridges for second breakfast, Jake, a biker we met days before at the church hostel in Dubois, noticed our bikes parked outside and came into the Blue Anchor Cafe where we were eating to say hello. He and Eric, the biker from Hawaii we met at the same time, left Ennis this morning over 20 miles behind us, rode over the mountain past where we camped last night and caught up with us before 11 AM. As we left the café Eric rode up to chat. He characterized the beginning of their morning as a “nice climb“. I said, Eric, you’re a sick man and we’re going to get you help. I know we left late this morning, and they probably left very early, but still it’s obvious they’re much stronger riders than we are, although they said it took them about two hours to do the climb, the same as us. I’m guessing that Ed and I are at least 15 years older than they are.

Last night’s storm clouds to the east just a few minutes after I took the photo I posted yesterday.

Last night just as I was settling into the tent to go to sleep it seemed that all hell broke loose. Suddenly people were shooting off fireworks in the campground, and I’m talking about very loud fireworks. That started some dogs whining, whimpering and barking around us. Then there were people loudly talking about the fireworks, trying to hush up the dogs, herding children around and generally causing vocal mayhem. Had it lasted much longer than it did I would’ve been out of the tent looking to hush some people up and complaining to the campground management about enforcement of quiet hours. The ruckus finally died down around 10:15 PM and I was able to get to sleep.

We were up a little later than usual this morning, about 6 AM instead of 5:30 AM. Then as we were trying to leave we got into conversation with several other campers which delayed us even further. Instead of getting out at our usual 7 AM we were on the road at 8 AM.

I don’t think I’ve ever written anything about what I eat for breakfast every morning while we’re camping. The standard fare is orange juice, hot chocolate, instant oatmeal and a banana. It’s simple and easy to prepare. One pan, one cup, one spoon and hot water.

For anyone who wants to get into the horse and cattle business in Montana this little operation is for sale. Looks pretty authentic, doesn’t it?

Although I know Johnny will enjoy this picture, this one’s for Ben. I suppose when it’s needed someone runs out here to jump in and go to the fire.

Crane sculpture at the Beaverhead Rock scenic turnout.

On the way west Lewis and Clark hired a French Canadian trapper named Toussaint Charbonneau to help guide them. He had either bought Sacajawea, a youth Shoshone woman, or won her while gambling with Hidatsa Sioux people who had captured her in a raid when she was 12 years old. When Lewis and Clark came through she was 16 or 17 years old and became part of the Corps of Discovery due to her relationship with the French trapper. Lewis and Clark were looking for a Shoshone tribe from whom they could purchase horses and located one in August 1805. They used Sacajawea as an interpreter and discovered that the chief of the tribe they were dealing with was her brother. This encounter with the Shoshone tribe occurred near Beaverhead Rock.

This wider view of Beaverhead Rock gives a much better impression of a beaver swimming across a river than a close-up of just the rock itself.

This is not a very good picture because of the distance but after a little research I’m thinking this might be a juvenile bald eagle.

We blew into town to Dillon, literally, with a stiff tailwind behind us. First stop was the post office to pick up care packages.

Contents of the care package from my daughter Sarah in Joplin and her family included belated birthday and Father’s Day cards.

We were at the door of the Beaverhead Brewing Company at 3 PM this afternoon when they opened. We had time for a beer before wandering down the street to go see the new Indiana Jones movie. Since tomorrow is a rest day here, we will be back. Fun fact: In Montana breweries cannot serve beer after 8 PM, although restaurants and bars that serve food can serve beer later into the evening.

A Montana innovation? The combination gas station, convenience store, smoke shop, casino.

After the movie we walked to an Asian restaurant for dinner. It was quite good, though our first choice had been Mexican fare. The Mexican restaurant next door to the brewery is said to have good food, and their website said they were open today, but a sign on the door said otherwise. The folks in the brewery told us that the hours of that Mexican restaurant are quite irregular. We’re hoping they’re open tomorrow.

Now for some well deserved rest in a real bed.

Today's ride: 49 miles (79 km)
Total: 1,151 miles (1,852 km)

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	7
Comment on this entry	Comment	0