Day 5 - May 8 - Cumberland to Confluence - Two Old Guys Take On A Continent

May 8, 2023

Day 5 - May 8 - Cumberland to Confluence

The Big Hill (The First One Anyway)

Ed’s Story

First I would like to wish my wife Debbie a happy 47th wedding anniversary and to thank her letting me go on this journey/ adventure/trek of mine.

We started out at 9:45 because I needed to fill a prescription but we were finally off to the big hill - 23.5 miles of climbing with grades between 0 and 3%, although some were higher. John originally told me 21.2 and just when I thought we near the top he said “Oops, it’s 23.5”.

A typical view of the GAP. At some point to RR track left us but don’t remember where.

We were wondering if the railroad track was still active and when we got to the first tunnel there was a sign not to enter with an incoming train - that answered that question.

Finally a light at the end of the tunnel

Saw this shortly after the tunnel but not sure what the originator wanted to convey.

We finally left the south when we crossed the Mason Dixon line into Pennsylvania. It wasn’t far from the end of the climb.

John straddling the line, which actually crossed the trail at an angle.

After some more riding the big one, the Big Savage Tunnel appeared. It was long, cold, and in my opinion not very well lit. I felt the cold and put a jacket on before entering.

All you wanted to know about the tunnel.

After some more climbing we reached the Eastern Continental Divide. 23.5 miles, average speed 7 mph.

About 3 miles after the Divide we came to a little Amish market selling baked goods, fruit and jelly. The only fruit was apples; the baked goods were from Amish bakers in Berlin and Walnut Creek in Ohio. Didn’t look at jelly but expecting the same.

John at one of the many bridges on the GAP north of the Divide.

Caboose but don’t remember where - sorry 🤷‍♂️

We came across 4 young ladies looking at an old family cemetery. They were on their way to Cumberland.

We continued our ride arriving In Confluence about 6:30 staying at the Corps of Engineers Outflow Recreation Area. Although the web page states no reservations are required for hiker biker camp sites, the caretaker said they were so made them on line.

Found a bar (only one open) for a drink, then came back to set up camp, eat, and shower. Rain is starting for a bit but will return with a passion about 1 AM lasting until....so we get leave in the rain - another tent disassembly when wet.

Tomorrow West Newton Pa, about 53 miles.

Happy Biking!

John’s Story

Commercial Intermission #1

Decaf drinkers unite! We’re tired of being second class citizens. Why is it so many places do not have decaf coffee? As Popeye used to say, “I’ve had all I can stands, and I can’t stands no more!” Please register with the Movement for More and Better Decaf Coffee at Hotels by sending your registration info to me written on the back of a $20 bill.

Commercial Intermission #2

There must be a competition among campgrounds and parks to see who can provide the flimsiest TP possible. I only now understand the concept of the black hole after discovering that it is possible to wad up an infinitely large amount of TP into an infinitely small space. Someone declare a winner, then go back to providing TP that may actually do some good.

Now Back to Our Regularly Scheduled Program

It was warm enough this morning that we were able to start out with short sleeved jerseys and bike shorts. No jackets, arm warmers, gloves. From the hotel we rode to the bike shop we saw yesterday on the route. I washed my bike down with a hose to rid it of yesterday’s mud. The front 6” of my front fender was stuffed with detritus between the fender and the tire.

We started at Mile 0 of the Great Allegheny Passage (GAP), which begins with a 23.5 mile 2125’ climb to the Eastern Continental Divide. The climb averages 2% grade, but it is relentless. Over that distance there was only 19’ of descent. I averaged a relaxed yet stately 7.5 mph. I tend to get ahead of Ed, then wait for him to catch up, so I average a little faster. Just the way it is. So we will cross the country at the speed of Ed.

So, about that tunnel. How can we tell a train is approaching unless we enter the tunnel? And if there is? Then what? Turn around and run back out?

We eventually ran out of tracks paralleling the GAP. The GAP became double wide for a while instead of double track.

It was so cold in the Savage Mountain tunnel that I’m certain it must have snowed here in the past week. It was snowing in PA when Ed drove from Ohio to DC a week ago.

When we reached the Mason Dixon Line the trail surface changed. There was suddenly much more fine loose gravel on the surface, making steering a loaded bike a bit problematic. A few miles later at the Eastern Continental Divide there was suddenly a strong chilly headwind in our faces. Combined with the softer trail surface it made going downhill just as much work as it had been coming uphill for 3 hours. We eventually sped up a little as the surface improved, but it made for a long day.

It’s interesting that my Wahoo recorded only 1889’ of climbing to the divide vs the officially surveyed 2125’. The route in Ride With GPS predicted another 1,000’ of climbing to Confluence after the divide, but we saw only about 200’ more. I think I figured it out. Ride With GPS must use a topographic database to calculate predicted climbing on a route. Where there are tunnels (several on the eastern side of the divide) the program only sees the hill the tunnel goes through and predicts climbing there that doesn’t exist on the trail. Where there are bridges (many on the western side of the divide) the program sees the valleys the bridges cross and predicts climbing to get out of the valley that doesn’t exist on the trail.

The lady at the little Amish market (really just a shed next to her home) where we stopped was kind enough to go into her home and bring us cold water in a large glass jar to refill our water bottles. There wasn’t enough in the jar to refill all our bottles so she asked her five-year-old son Titus to take it back in and refill it. I didn’t understand a word she said to him. I’ve heard of Pennsylvania Dutch all my life, and I think I finally heard some.

We saw a number of critters on the trail today, including one snake that we both managed to run over accidentally.

The “young ladies” we met at the cemetery told us about turkeys they saw up the trail. We ran across some birds but I’m pretty sure they weren’t turkeys. Guinea fowl?

This little guy may look big but he was about twice the size of my thumbnail.

I’ve played with daddy long legs since I was a kid. I’ve never seen one put up as ferocious a fight as this one did when I picked it up. He was definitely attacking my finger with every bit of energy he possessed. Lucky for me their mandibles are too small and weak to penetrate skin. Otherwise I would be missing a thumb. He must’ve been very happy living in that porta potty.

Speaking of Porta potty’s, I love the slogan.

Dodd’s Hotel in Confluence is the only eating establishment in town open on Monday or Tuesday. Interestingly enough the hotel does not rent out rooms. But they do sell beer and food. Go figure.

By the time we got to the campground it was starting to get dark. We hastily set up the tents, showered, and made some dinner. By the time I was finished eating the rain had started. It’s been raining as I huddle in my tent writing this journal. And the big event will be tomorrow morning about the time we’re supposed to break camp and leave. So I’m all geared up for a wet day tomorrow.

Today's ride: 62 miles (100 km)
Total: 3,813 miles (6,136 km)

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