Day 1 Gauting to Bad Tölz

February 21, 2025

We have our fingers crossed that the -1C will warm up to around 8C by the time we are ready to leave. I didn't pack at all yesterday, but we won't need much for three days and we will be wearing most of our kit anyway. The panniers are ready in no time and I even have time to vacuum before we lock the front door.

Our parting shot, it's close to 10 o'clock and is alreay warming up.

Our route first takes us up the hill out of the Würm Valley to Buchendorf and on a paved path through the woods. We had expected to see snow covered mountains as we got closer to our destination at the end of the day, but not on the path through the woods so close to home. I don't want to risk an accident so I walk my bike through the slushy patches and hope we aren't going to have too much of this kind of surface in the course of the day.

Most of the stretch through the woods is okay, we just have to be careful.

Our worries about it being too cold were unnecessary, I am soon too warm and have to take off a layer. We are on a bicycle path for about 15 km, then it's quiet roads through small towns until we descend the steep hairpins to Wolfratshausen. We are glad to be there, it's noon and we need a break. We are both totally out of shape and wondering if this winter tour idea is fun at all.

A small chapel, and some more snow on the roadside

I find this on the ground outside the chapel. I'm not sure but I think it says "Don't give up", or maybe "Never give up". Yes, we need encouragement today.

I appreciate the snow free trail through the woods and the sun slanting through the trees.

In Irschenhausen I think, a beautifully maintained traditional wood facade.

Hard to read but freely translated I think the inscription says, "What the year will bring you cannot know, you can only take your chances and trust in God."

Ah, the Alps, or perhaps am I seeing the Prealps.

In Wolfratshausen we look for a place for lunch. While we futilely rattle the door of a closed pub, a native to Wolfratshausen approaches us and points us towards the Wirtshaus Flößerei on the other side of the Loisach which he can recommend. When passing through Wolfratshausen on previous tours, we never even crossed the bridge.

We have a good and warming fish soup for lunch.

Covered bridge over the Loisach for pedestrians and cyclists

Our route continues on an unpaved path next to the Loisach for a while, a little muddy and puddley but not too bad. While we are on this stretch, my phone rings and it is Susan! I take a seat on a nearby bench in the sun and we get a quick update on Susan's broken rib and how things are going for her. Then we are on a pleasant, paved rail trail, the Isartalbahn-Radweg, all the way to Beuerberg, our next stop.

We stop for a look at Kloster Beuerberg, a former Augustinian and Salesian monastery.

The monastery itself was abandoned after the last superior, Sister M. Innocentia (Gertraud) Donius, died on December 22, 2013. The last 14 sisters still living there moved to nursing homes run by the Franciscan sisters and sisters of mercy. The monastery is best known for its church of St. Peter and Paul.

Such is the fate of the century old monasteries. In Beuerberg there is still a lot of construction going on as the abandoned buildings are being renovated for new purposes.

Baroque interior - view to the altar of St. Peter and Paul's

On the walls are a few remnants of original frescoes.

After our stop in Beuerberg, the path deteriorates. Winter snow melt has made the sandy ground soft and there are many potholes. It feels like our tires are sticking to the ground.

The first of the two final climbs starts at about kilometer 43, it's the shorter the two. We are tired and look forward to getting the climbs done with. Janos has been using his e-support sparingly all day to make sure his battery lasts for the 6% gradient at the top of the last hill. I have almost crested the hill, Janos is behind me and out of sight, when, using the bluetooth intercom on our helmets, he tells me that his battery is empty. Oh no, I can't even imagine having to push a fully loaded, heavy e-bike up to the top, but that is what he has to do. I agonize while I wait at the top just thinking about the effort this is costing him. We imagine it must have been the sticky mud and a headwind in the second half of the day that emptied his battery much sooner than to be expected.

While I wait I hear eerie sounds carried by the wind, perhaps it's music of some kind but I am not sure. Then I make out two bagpipers in the distance across the fields. I imagine they are practicing out of earshot of their neighbors, or perhaps it feels like the Highlands here. As the sun nears the horizon I feel a chill in the air and it is windy. I put my layers back on and wait and wait. The shadows are getting longer and I am kicking myself for not planning a flatter route. Eventually Janos comes into sight.

I have reached the top of the second climb and wait for Janos.

We have mostly downhill to our hotel, but not only. Janos can coast part of the way, but he still has some hike-a-biking before the day is done. When we reach Bad Tölz the evening sun lights up the facades along the Isar in a golden glow. I take a few quick snaps, not fussy now about where I should stand to get the best shot.

We make our way to our hotel in the historic center of Tölz, get cleaned up and go downstairs to our hotel's Bavarian restaurant. We both enjoy the traditional Bavarian setting, even if the food isn't always that good. Of course, a cold beer is called for at the end of an arduous day.

I have discovered that alcohol free beer is really good! Tastes good and is good for me.

Heart

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Steve Miller/GrampiesIt's not so much the distance, or even the hills, but the combination with the headwind thrown in that really drains your batteries-ebike and human.
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3 weeks ago

Today's ride: 54 km (34 miles)
Total: 54 km (34 miles)

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Nancy GrahamBlue tooth intercom in your helmets. Apparently Susan has missed THIS gadget! We use walkie talkies on any of our rides, but we are not bike touring any more so those will work just fine. However — if Susan learns about these Bluetooth things, we may end up with something we do not need!

Sorry that Janos had to push his loaded heavy bike up that hill, and glad he looks better with that smile over his beer 😉.
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3 weeks ago

Kathleen JonesYou had great weather this day. But you did an awful lot of kilometers, if you ask me. Good for you!
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3 weeks ago

Suzanne GibsonTo Nancy GrahamSusan would definitely like these helmets. We love them and chat as we ride.
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3 weeks ago

Nancy GrahamTo Suzanne GibsonWhat is the brand of your helmets that talk ;’-)?
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3 weeks ago

Suzanne GibsonSena R1 bluetooth intercom...I am sure you can find them on Amazon. They have them in bright orange! :)
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3 weeks ago

Suzanne GibsonTo Nancy GrahamSena R1 bluetooth intercom...I am sure you can find them on Amazon. They have them in bright orange! :)
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3 weeks ago

Rich FrasierTo Suzanne GibsonWe have the Sena helmets in bright blue and they are indeed awesome. So nice to be able to talk at a normal volume while riding.
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2 weeks ago