We were on the road before seven because we wanted to make the eleven o’clock ferry from Wakayama to Tokushima. The route initially on the route 204, as yesterday, and it was busy, as we expected, but not stressful. However, the number of traffic lights made for slow going and I was a bit concerned that we might not get to Wakayama in time. After about twenty kilometers, the road split, the traffic thinned out and we were on a lovely rural road hugging the coast with barely a traffic light in sight. A few small climbs, a short tunnel, a couple of fishing villages and we were on the downhill into Wakayama.

We got to the ferry port, bought our tickets and as we cycled onto the boat they started closing the doors behind us – the ferry was scheduled to leave at ten thirty so it was just as well we made good time on the second half of the morning’s ride.

The ferry ride (2000 JPY per person plus 700 JPY for a bicycle) was an uneventful two and half hours. We passed the time forcing down a really dull bento box each. Aeroplane food suddenly seems appetizing.

Heart

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On our arrival in Tokushima we cycled off the ferry with no idea in our heads but to head south with the hope of finding somewhere to camp for the night. After about fifteen kilometers I had a look at the map of free campsites in Japan and noticed we were only about fifteen kilometers from one near Katsuura. A little off our way but worth checking out. It was deserted when we arrived soon after four o’clock and we took the chance to have a good scrub (there are wash basins but the showers were locked) and wash our clothes. Soon afterwards an elderly couple arrived, followed by a younger motor cyclist. The elderly man spoke passable English and engaged with us readily. He let us know we need to register with the manageress of the campsite, who lived next door, and was of great help in translating when in came to filling in the register. I’m pretty certain that if he hadn’t got involved the manageress would have ignored us because the ordeal of dealing with gaijin seemed almost too much for her. The elderly gentleman was a retired geography teacher and he spent a lot of time suggesting we keep away from where we had pitched out tent because the large bees hanging around the roofed shelter next to out tent were dangerous. It was only after he said we should turn the tent around so that the entrance faced away from the shelter that we realised he was telling us in an oblique way that we were being discourteous with our choice of tent site. Lesson learnt (when it should have been obvious).

One of the things immediately obvious on Shikoku are the Henros, pilgrims making the circuit of eighty eight designated temples on Shikuko. I decided to greet each one that we passed but it the number of them that we encountered and the chance that one might have taken a vow of silence and the risk of creating a moment akin to the scene in The Life Of Brian where Spike Milligan has his foot jumped on made me give that idea up pretty quickly.

One lifer on the way today - Blue Rock Thrush.