January 10, 2020
Rio Tranquilo
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Last night's rain was still falling when we woke up and would continue for much of the day. With us now heading southwards and the westerly wind being directed down the valley towards Rio Tranquilo we would have some assistance on the road today.
The Swiss couple passed us as we were packing up. They had slept at a wood shed just before the descent down to the Rio Murto. I can only imagine it must have been freezing up on the mountain. We passed them for the last time today when they were taking a break under a bridge. We were also passed by a lovely young Brazilian couple on their way to Ushuaia as well as a German guy a few years younger than us who is doing the same.
Eight kilometers on we passed the second abandoned house. The gate is now closed and locked and I guess it is no longer available for cycle tourists to wildcamp.
Some of today's road was lovely smooth packed earth but unfortunately most of it was very rough loose gravel and the tailwind was an assistance we really appreciated. It rained for much of the way today and continues to do so. Still, it was a pleasant ride.
On entering Rio Tranquilo we were besieged by touts trying to organize accommodation or trips to the marble caves. Clearly business is down with the civil disturbances taking place in the country but we tried to ignore them as politely as possible. We checked out a number of campsites before retorting to Bella Vista where we had stayed two years ago. There is an overlander vehicle here with its collection of mushroom tents but apparently they are leaving tomorrow. Crap wifi, particularly when it is crowded, but the showers are great. Last time here, I woke up at 3am just to be able to check my emails because their internet connection can't cope when everyone else is awake.
We treated ourselves to hamburgers and a couple of glasses of wine at a restaurant a few hundred meters away. Better than fighting with the crowds in the lovely refugio.
We bumped into Henri and Henny while walking to the restaurant. They had to catch a lift to get through the roadblock for today's blasting and have set up camp in Agro Camping next door to Bella Vista. So nice to see them again.
Today's ride: 57 km (35 miles)
Total: 861 km (535 miles)
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