Refugio south of Parque Penguino Rey

February 12, 2020

I started the morning by getting through a few cups of coffee in the company of Torvin and Wolfgang. Two really nice guys who were easy and interesting to talk to. They were on their way to the King Penguin colony today and would carry on to San Sebastian tomorrow. Martin and Elsp, who were heading all the way to San Sebastian today, emerged a bit later and it was good chatting to them too. Leigh was the last to rise, just before everyone else set off. We were eventually on our way sometime before ten o'clock.

Martin and Elsp pose with their Thorn Nomads. Nice to see other Thorns on the road. All six bicycles last night had Rohloff hubs.

It was a ride in two distinct parts. The first forty kilometers to the junction at which we would turn southwards to the King Penguin colony was absolute heaven. Great ripio for most of the way with a nice wind coming over our right shoulders to help us along.

We stopped at the refugio at the junction to have our lunch and were suprised to find Martin and Elsp there, they having just finished theirs. The refugio here was in better condition and smelt less bad than last night's and the old refugio was also still in operation with signs that it was being kept in clean condition by passing cyclists.

The road south-westerly to the penguin colony was a rude awakening. The wind was now pretty in our faces and the ripio was absolutely terrible - corrugated with mostly very loose gravel. The sixteen kilometers to the refugio just south of the penguin colony was a hard slog. A few kilometers down this road we passed the Estancia Josefina where one can stay for a mere $200 US per couple per night. No thanks, we'll try our luck at the refugio.

Coming north from the penguin colony was the eccentric Swiss couple on their tandem. They had slept "over a fence" last night but were heading for the fancy hotel at Estancia Josefina for the night. Soon after them we came upon Wolfgang and Torvin on their way back to the junction. They told us that a French couple had reported the refugio to be a good option but not to bother trying to get water from the rangers at the penguin colony. This wasn't an issue because there was good water in a river a few hundred meters before the refugio.

Indeed, the refugio was good. Clean and well kept with a fire place and wood pile. There was even a broom so we could clean up after our stay. Sadly, the dirt bins were full to overflowing. The old refugio was also still in operation but not nearly as clean as the old one at the junction. There was an elderly Swiss couple in a well equiped overlander vehicle camped next to the refugio. They have travelled all over the world having done almost a million kilometers in their very capable looking rig. Soon after we had settled, in six Chilean students, four guys and two girls, arrived by foot. They have moved into the old refugio although they said they will probably sleep in their tents.

We are going to see the penguins tomorrow before heading back to the junction.

Today's ride: 58 km (36 miles)
Total: 1,537 km (954 miles)

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