January 31, 2020
Refugio Rio Cisnes
We were on the road at about nice and early in Patagonian terms – about nine o'clock. It was a wonderfully bright and sunny morning and the day was sure to get hot later, which it did.
After cyling down the gravel down to Ruta 7 it was easy and scenic riding on asfalto alongside the Queulat Fjord for ten kilometers. The first few kilometers on the ripio was relatively dust free because the it was still and damp enough with little traffic but as the day heated up and the traffic got heavier the dust troubled us as much as it did two years ago. Nonetheless the views made up for it, especially after we started the steep part of the climb at about twenty kilometers after we had left the National Park.
Henri and Henny caught up to us when we stopped for a snack and Katie was the only cyclist ahead of us. We passed here early into the climb and pushed on slowly towards the top occasionally shouting obscenities at the small proportion of motorists who were inconsiderate when passing us.
Although the sign at the top of the climb indicated 500 meters above sea level, Henri's GPS confirmed that it is closer to 590 meters. The irrepressible Martin and David caught up to us at this point and we enjoyed their usual effusive greetings. They soon stopped to rest through the heat of the day while we continued on a take lunch a few kilometers further on down the descent.
Once we hit the asfalto at the junction of the road from Puerto Cisnes to Coyhaique it was, as we had anticipated, a long and hot slog for the last twenty kilometers or so o Refugio Rio Cisnes. Henri and Henny caught up to us again at this point. Leigh had allowed herself to get a bit dehydrated and we took it easy so that she could recover. When we got to the campsite Henny and Henri were waiting outside with the bad news that it had a sign across the gate saying “Closed”. However, a quick chat with the young lady in a food kiosk across the road confirmed that Diana and Jose, the owners, would be back later and we could let ourselves in,which we did.
First business was to buy some cake,cokes and beers from the kiosk and relax before setting up the tents. Diana and Jose had returned while we were chilling and invited us,for a reasonable fee, to join them for an asado to celebrate New Years Eve. This is just what we were hoping for and so after setting up camp and cleaning up, we headed down to the fire where Jose had a sheep cooking slowly next to the fire. We had a great evening of local food, drink and dancing with Diana, Jose and their staff as well as visitors from France, Luxemborg and USA in addition to us and Henny and Henri from Holland.
Today's ride: 63 km (39 miles)
Total: 482 km (299 miles)
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