September 13, 2024
Day Fourteen - Grenoble to Lyon
I woke up roughly on time that day, Unlike the past couple of days I actually had a big day of cycling ahead of me. I'd also wanted to palm off some of my surplus bread and sandwiches to those around me - I had no intention of carrying 2-3 meals worth of food, or binning it!
As per usual, packed away my bedding as soon as I woke up. Using the sanitary block I'd occasionally get what I can only assume was some form of a hello from the other users, but it was so often mumbled at me I couldn't quite make out what they were actually saying. I just smiled back. I did have headphones in after all.
I attempted to give some bread or sandwiches to the guy with a flat bar bike and pannier bags. He didn't speak English, oops. Cue awkward phone translation exchange. He didn't want any of the food, boo! We had a brief exchange explaining what we'd been up to and what our plans were. He seemed friendly enough but the language barrier did not help.
Next I tried the couple riding eBikes. They did speak English and I was able to give them a sandwich! Hooray. I left the rest of the baked goods on the table in the communual area. Goodness knows whether they were eaten, or just binned.
This time I managed to leave the campsite at about 9:15, not bad at all. Still not quite 9AM but I was satisfied anyway. I quickly joined the cycle track running alongside the Drac and then Isere river. I could tell the gradient was going to be rather dull but at least it was smooth and relatively traffic free. The one thing I definitely did not appreciate was the moped driver who decided to buzz past me, you simply should not be here pal!
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Mostly the view from the track was pleasant green woods on either side, but occasionally the trees broke away and I had a good view of some of the remaining mountains and hills I had been cycling away from for the past couple of rides.
There were some big-ish hills towards the beginning of the ride on relatively quiet roads. Of course, they were nothing compared to the mountains I'd ascended on previous days, so they weren't too much to worry about.
While I was riding these roads early in the day, I listened to a BBC R4 documentary on the Berlin Wall. An unusual combination!
It was quite interesting, and towards the end of the program they did dip in to the subject I suspected they might touch on - the AfD's (far right political party) success in the parts of Germany that were formerly backed by the USSR. I've watched videos on youtube in the past explaining that the east of Germany hasn't really been brought up to the the same standard as West Germany economically since reunification, and this is probably playing in to their lurch to the right as a form of protest against being left behind. Reminds me of the parts of the UK that are left behind compared to London voting for Brexit. Hopefully one day politicians will learn only investing in the places that lead to the greatest return on that investment tends to lead to resentment of the political class!
After the climbs were over I found myself riding closer and closer to a big French highway. Fortunately my plotted route never actually took me on to that road, that would have been a bit of a disaster! Still, the road I did end up on wasn't particularly pleasant either. Think British B road with regular HGV's. Not much fun. I took refuge in a bus shelter to have some of one of my baguettes I'd bought the previous day in Grenoble while watch a Sigma Sports video on youtube with Matt Stevens and David O'Doherty. I know David loves his bikes, but I didn't realise how much he loves bikes. It seems he actually enjoys building random assortments of parts in to a finished build more than he actually likes riding them. The steed he found himself riding on with Matt he'd only finished building the day before!
I think I ate about 3/4's of the salmon baguette before setting off again. It was before noon I believe but I needed a break from the busy road. I got back on the road, hoping things would quieten down soon.
Some time later the rain that was threatened in the weather forecast had became pretty evident just looking at the sky. Shortly after noticing this, I found myself riding past a small railway station. Railway stations usually have some sort of shelter to sit inside for free. I almost cycled past it and just kept going, but with the threat of rain it seemed like the best bet to eat the rest of my lunch. I found my shelter, facing the platform, outside. I get to watch the trains stop and go again, along with a bit of people watching on the side. It was quite a small village I found myself in... I suppose I'd better check the Strava activity so I can tell you where it was. Châbons! Only a population of 2,000~ so it's good that they have a good public transport link. I scoffed the remainder of my salmon baguette and started on the second baguette. "What an interesting flavour this sandwich has" I found myself thinking. I didn't know what was in it. I was about half way through the thing when I realised no, that wasn't a strange unusual flavour I had encountered, I was having an allergic reaction! Fantastic!
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I have a peanut allergy but beyond that it's difficult to know what else I'm allergic to. Generally I don't have any issues and the last time (and only time I think) I had a really severe reaction was when I was about 14 at a folk festival. I'm pretty confident it wasn't peanuts as the reaction would have been much worse. What was in it though? No idea. I found myself with epipen in hand wondering whether it was time to stab myself in the thigh with the thing and make a "big deal" out of it. I even phoned my mum! It was a bit embarrassing being so indecisive about something like that but it happens so infrequently (fortunately) that it's difficult to make a judgement on it.
Anyway, in the end it was a mild reaction. Yes my throat did feel a bit peculiar and my lips were tingling a bit, but I must have sat there for a good ten to fifteen minutes after I'd finished eating (binning the other half of the baguette!) and the symptoms didn't get worse. Epipen within easy reach I cycled on. Within about an hour or two I felt normal again. My instincts were correct! Phew.
From there the trip to Lyon was a bit all over the place, I went from cycle tracks that felt a lot like Milton Keynes (a bit bland), to old railway style cycle tracks, to awfully dull, straight, fast and narrow roads in to Lyon. I found myself hoping I'd be done with such a road pretty quickly. Fortunately I think I was on it for less than thirty minutes.
Arriving at Lyon was a relief. I'd done it! Done what though? It wasn't like heading towards Rome last year, Lyon was never my planned end goal. I could have cycled from Limoges to Lyon much quicker without all the mountains. Hmm. What is it I get out of these trips? In fairness I loved going up the big mountain climbs, but it definitely hits different when the end point is just where you happen to stop riding and need to get back home. My Orbea's front mech battery was dead and the rear mech battery wasn't far off. Woops!
On reflection, do I have much to say about this holiday? Well my dodgy knee didn't play up so that was a relief. Was I glad I cycled between the big climbs rather than catch the train? I think so. Cycling through Lozère was an absolute delight, and as per usual I got to see more of the country than I would have otherwise. Seeing just the tourist hotspots might have been a bit sad. Quite how close I could have got to Puy Mary, I don't know.
Off to Ireland next!🍀
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