Bardenas Reales

September 30, 2023

I’m really pleased that Rachael enjoyed her walk today so much, because my out and back ride to Bardenas Reales was a real highlight of the tour for me. A World Biosphere Reserve, it contains a severe, desert-like badlands that feels like it could be in the American Southwest.

Or at least some parts of the reserve are like this. It’s quite large and diverse though. Our first time here six years ago we crossed the southeast corner of it on our way from Tudela to Sos del Rey Catolico and I was disappointed because it wasn’t what I’d expected to see. That area is the Black Bardenas, and largely forested. Today I’m off to the west side, the White Bardenas, where all the drama is. It apparently even featured in the Game of Thrones.

After crossing the Ebro and chatting with Kendal I bike north along the river for about five miles, backtracking the end of our ride in yesterday. I’ve been here before so I just ride for the most part except for stopping for this attractive farmhouse and garden.

Tomato trellises? The only other spot I remember seeing something like this was in Andalucia, and those were supporting tomato vines.

Just before Arguedas I turn off onto the paved road to the park information center. As far as I know this is the only paved road into the White Bardenas, and it doesn’t go far. Most of the area is roadless except for a few gravel tracks. The first mile or two miles are lined with interesting agricultural holdings, prompting frequent stops. Once the road crosses the park boundary though this stops and the rest of the way is through open, exposed, increasingly dramatic terrain dotted from time to time with colorful, long abandoned structures.

Just past the visitor center the road crests at the top of a small ridge and there’s a pulloff to a viewpoint across the barren basin below with isolated jagged structures rising from the floor about two miles in the distance. It’s definitely a scenic spot, and reminds me in a modest way of dropping into Monument Valley from the north.

The pavement continues on for a few more miles to what I think is a military firing range; but I leave the pavement here for a gravel road that snakes across the basin toward those formations.

That white line snaking through the window is the main tourism route through the park. It’s unpaved for the next 20 miles or so until you finally loop back, but I’m only going for a few miles.

I knew I was going off pavement when I planned this ride, but I didn’t really have much idea what it will be like, other than knowing it’s a bikeable route - Kormoot lists several circuits out here. I didn’t know how poor the surface might be or how remote it might feel, which is why I didn’t propose to Rachael that she join me. It didn’t seem like a ride she’d enjoy, and she’ll be fine with just seeing the photos later.

As it turns out, it’s not a bad ride at all. There are a few gravelly stretches, but nothing I need to dismount for. I think I maintain a speed of 7-8 mph most of the way pretty comfortably. And I’m not alone. It’s the weekend so probably busier than normal, but I must have seen twenty or more other bikers and about the same number of cars. The cars kick up dust when they pass, but it’s not terrible. Given the chance, I’d definitely come out here again and allow time to go further next time.

Not a bad surface; and I’m only riding as far as those protruding formations out there, about two miles away.

I was excited about this bird and several others like it, thinking it might be bird 200. But nope, just another whinchat.

About two and a half miles in I come to a remarkable formation, probably the most iconic image from the park. I haven’t seen the Game of Thrones, but I’ll bet this setting features in it. I have two reactions when I see it ahead. One is of pure happiness - I knew it was out here somewhere, but didn’t know where and didn’t really expect to come across it. The other is concern, because it’s obviously the hot spot in the park. There are several parked cars and people walking around near it, at least as it appears from a distance. It looks so fragile, and I picture it being eroded by people climbing up on it to get their selfies to post home.

But it’s not like that at all. It’s a well protected site, roped off from well away with prominent signage to stay back and respect it, and people do. It’s an amazing sight, spectacular from all angles. It’s so pencil-thin at the top with that bit of resistant rock capping it, that you can’t help but think some part of it will crumble before many more years pass. I feel lucky to be here to see it.

How many more years before that erodes through, I wonder?

I stare at this formation for a long time, and then continue on just far enough to see what’s around the next bend to satisfy my curiosity. That’s it though. It’s starting to warm up, and I’ve got a lunch date to get back for.

If I had the time, I’d go on. It definitely looks worth a closer look.

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Ride stats today: 30 miles, 800’; for the tour: 776 miles, 22,400’

Today's ride: 30 miles (48 km)
Total: 766 miles (1,233 km)

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Comment on this entry	Comment	4

Bruce LellmanDid you sneak off to parts of the U.S.? This landscape is not at all what I think of for Spain!
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1 year ago

Scott AndersonTo Bruce LellmanIt isn’t, is it? Spain is astonishingly diverse though. I think I like it better each time we return.
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1 year ago

marilyn swettWhat an interesting area!
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1 year ago

Susan CarpenterFantastic photos of an extraordinary landscape - the stark beauty is captivating. I’ll have to spend more time exploring Spain!
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1 year ago