Angel Fire - Taos: Taos! - Six days until Taos

June 15, 2016

Angel Fire - Taos: Taos!

A ranch breakfast was included this morning. Starts at 6:45. We were downstairs at 6:40. There didn't seem to be any organization to breakfast. Marty wasn't sure if he ordered or not. Tom and Ken shrugged their shoulders. We all sat down and waited to see what happened. It was a one woman operation. Three more people came in after us, but got their food first. We all told Nancy we would take whatever she was serving, hoping that would speed things up. It was hopeful, but not fruitful. When we finally did get breakfast at 7:30, it was good, if skimpy. Bacon, sausage, eggs, toast, and watermelon. I think I liked the watermelon best. Fresh food has been in short supply this trip.

We had locked our bikes under the stairwell last night, since we ended up on the second floor. Nancy didn't think that was secure and insisted we put the bikes in her personal dining room. Which meant we didn't have bike access all night or morning. By the time we got breakfast, I had the bike loaded and the chain cleaned. I was ready to go and down the road by 8 AM. That's late for me. Forecasts were for reasonable temperatures, but high winds. The wind not in our favor.

Ken, Tom, and Marty were taking the direct 24 mile route into Taos. They declared in an almost day off. Jacinto and I went around the 66 mile trip. Jacinto said he would be right behind me. I kept looking and looking. No Jacinto.

It was a downwardly trend at first and the wind hadn't started. The morning was pretty nice. The valley was wide and open. Mountains ringing us, with just a few pine trees and sagebrush. We were definitely in new territory.

I was enjoying the down, but also thinking about the climb. Bobcat Pass was only the third pass of the trip, but we had PLENTY of climbing overall this tour!

There were prairie dogs all along the road for miles and miles. They were running this way and that way. Not too many squashed ones, considering. I did see an abnormal number of crows. They made me think of the Stephen King book, The Stand.

I knew the top was at mile 25. Around mile 20, the up started. I still hadn't seen Jacinto. I wondered if he took the short route and was in Taos already.

Breakfast had been good but pretty skimpy. I mixed one bottle of Spiz and looked longingly at my remaining powder. Maybe I could have a half a bottle more and I'd still have enough for tomorrow? I ate all of my bars (2) and started in on the dried apricots and nuts. Temperatures were still moderate and it seemed I even had a tailwind! What a nice help up the pass. I kept looking behind me for Jacinto. It seemed I did see a flash or two of green way behind. I did not take a break when I wanted. I was hoping to get closer to the top so we could take a photo together. I suffered for that decision. It's amazing how much energy taking a short break gives me. I was very, very happy to reach the top. It's really quite an easy pass. I pushed just a little too hard to get to the top. Looking back, no Jacinto. Heck, did I push myself for nothing? I had another snack, took my flag down in anticipation of the wind, and headed downhill.

Wait! What is this? A headwind? It was just a tailwind a few feet ago! This is not fun. The wind was quite strong, jerking me around. Perhaps if I get down a bit lower, I will be sheltered and the wind won't be so strong. There was a wide shoulder, but the surface came and went. I would ride on what looked to be the best surface, back and forth, back and forth.

Traffic this entire trip has been amazingly light, even in areas where I expected heavy traffic. Excellent.

It didn't take long to reach Red River. This is a happening tourist town. There were lots and lots of little shops, motels, and restaurants. Plenty of tourists also. I kept on moving. Hoping against hope I would get below the wind. Outside of Red River was a huge mining operation of some sort. The shoulder surface continued to be iffy.

Even with the headwind, I was making pretty good time. 66 miles is a longer day, but the miles were ticking away. I kept mentally figuring out how many miles were left to town. The number was getting smaller and smaller. No Jacinto. Do you think he really went the short way? I would have gone the short way with the slightest of encouragement, but felt I needed the training miles of the long route.

Here was Questa. If we ever decide to ride up to San Luis, Colorado, Questa would be the overnight spot. There's not much here. But there is a motel and a restaurant.

I was making a giant loop, continually turning left toward Taos. Each time I took a turn, I hoped the wind would be helpful. After Questa, at least it was a side wind.

After Questa giant, giant rollers started. I did indeed remember these. They are not lovely. Several of the rollers were so tall I couldn't see the top. I knew from riding through here before that there were many of these rollers. Ugh. To make matters more fun, I came upon a construction zone. Martin was the flag guy. He said the construction was laying new pavement for about 1.5 miles and to pick my way through as I thought best. I asked a second man who said the pavement was firmly packed, I would be okay on the fresh stuff, but it hadn't been swept yet. I picked any number of fresh little rocks up. I wondered if I'd end up with a flat tire.

Wind, wind. Ugh. I had wind and rollers. Which was worse? I hit a few spots where the wind lessened. I almost decided I'd rather do the rollers than the wind, at least the rollers would end. Sometime.

I was at the top of an extended climb, when who should appear but Jacinto! He had left behind me and hadn't even gotten a couple of miles before his front tire went flat again. He pulled a long wire right out of the center of the tread of his Marathon Plus. So much for Schwalbe's famous flat less tires. You do remember that false advertising claim? They meant fewer flats, not flat-less.

It was very nice to see Jacinto and hear about his day. At this point we had only ten miles left to town. We were hoping that the wind would be a tailwind as we took the last turn to town. Wrong, we made a right turn, right into the wind. But there was only four miles more. To make things more interesting, we saw three bicycle riders with triangles on their backs with their names printed on them. Perhaps this was the group that had stayed at the Elk Horn in Chama after us? They were riding supported. They went from Chama all the way to Taos in one day. 90 miles. Not my idea of fun.

We followed the pannier-less riders right into town. They didn't out pace us. They turned off before us. The Casa Benavides is right off of the plaza, but we had only 1-2 blocks of congested riding. Zip, zip and we were there, just in time for tea. Jacinto went right to the desserts and started in. I think he ate more treats today than he does in months.

We were shown to our very nice room - titled San Juan. I couldn't wait to take out my contact lenses and get the dirt out of my eyes. We spent some time visiting in the afternoon, our last.

Tom sent a message to Jacinto that he had a beer, come on over. But Ken said Tom had gone back to the room for a nap. Jacinto didn't go over, since he didn't want to wake Tom up. When we got together for dinner, Tom was so sorry Jacinto hadn't shown up, forcing Tom to drink the beer. So tough for Jacinto.

I wanted to eat at the same place we did last time. I remembered having tacos in the backyard of a restaurant that was in an old house. Ken figured out where I wanted to eat, Eske's Brewery. We went there to eat again. It was the best food of the trip. Yum, yum.

As we finished up our meal, a man who had just sat down at an adjoining table heard us talking about cycling and came over. It turns out he was with the Chama to Taos group. They were riding with Heart Cycles (a non profit group based out of Denver, but they run trips all over the world). They have a day off tomorrow, then a ride to Las Vegas, the Santa Fe and they were done. It was nice to talk cycling with him.

The guys were inclined to skip breakfast and get on the road. Tomorrow has 61 miles. Everyone wants to get on the road and get to Antonito and start the drive home. We also have a five hour drive, but breakfast is delicious here. I insisted everyone wait for breakfast, emphasizing how good the homemade granola is and their green chili egg casserole.

As much for my reference as for yours; this is the layout of the Casa Benavides.

The motel guard dogs are hard at work this morning.

We have seen many fancy ranch gates this trip. This is the first
Out of iron. The top looks like wood, but the rest appears to be iron.

Typical scenery near the top of Bobcat Pass.

jacinto caught up with me near the top of a big climb.

Martin was the flag guy who stopped me at the road construction. He made the mistake of asking how my day was going. I whined about the wind and the steep rollers. Martin gave me sage advice that whatever is in your head is also in your heart. I needed an attitude adjustment. After talking to him, the headwind didn't seem quite as bad.

Tea time at the Casa Benavides. They had about ten different desserts, including a gluten free chocolate cake.

Green chili at Eske's Brew Pub, around the corner from the B & B. I had that in addition to a club sandwich. It was the best meal of the trip. Which perhaps says how poor the food has been. This meal was excellent!

Returning to our lodging for the night. We have only one more riding day. Darn. It has been a great trip.

Today's ride: 66 miles (106 km)
Total: 334 miles (538 km)

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