Our first day of cycling started early, with a 6:30 breakfast and a wonderful send-off from our Masai hosts, one filled with smiles, singing, and wishes for a safe journey. An initial one hour transport along the western edge of Mount Kilimanjaro to us to our starting point for today’s cycling - a drive through savannah with plenty of short stops for wildlife viewing: zebras, giraffe, impala and storks. On reaching the farm, we filled our water bottles, posed for the obligatory group photo and then were off, picking our way gingerly down the mile-long, soft clay driveway. After a very short stretch on tarmac, we turned onto the dirt/gavel roads that would comprise our route for today.
A morning look at my "room" at the Kambi ya Tembo tented camp
The cycling was magical – riding on mostly hard-packed dirt though a landscape populated with acacia trees, giraffes and scores of zebras. The sun was out and though the day was warming, the morning temperatures were ideal for cycling. The group stayed fairly close but stops for pictures were encouraged and we began to spread out a bit along the quiet back roads of the savannah. We soon crossed into the Maasai land along the west edge of Kilimanjaro, passing by a school and small clusters of houses as we wove our way around herds of cattle and goats. There was a short break about halfway through the day’s ride - fresh fruit and water while lazing on chairs under an acacia tree. Bliss.
It wasn’t long after the break that the road deteriorated into a rocky double-track and we experienced the first, but not the last, puncture of the day. We stopped en masse, and marveled at the speed at which Bashi, the trusty mechanic, fixed the flat and had us rolling again. Scores of zebras idled nearby while Mount Meru beckoned in the distance. We were truly enjoying the day at an African pace – slow and steady with heads on a swivel.
And then we encountered sand – sand so thick it forced us off our bikes. There were short stretches where I remounted, but was soon back to hike-a-bike. The guides were encouraging, calling out to shift to lower gears and keep powering on. But I was struggling. I kept down-shifting, but there was no movement of the chain. I couldn't believe it was so hard in the lowest gear, but I kept grinding in the hot sun while slowly falling behind the main group. This went on for a few miles until, facing a short but rock-strewn incline, I stopped to take a break. A look at my rear wheel indicated the chain was not wrapped on the largest sprocket but instead was jammed between the two smallest sprockets – no wonder it was so hard!!!
The support truck and Bashi appeared within minutes and soon had the derailleur working again. I was pretty well spent, but gamely remounted and forged ahead, continuing on the soft, rocky track. The sweep guide Lawrence was quite encouraging but the sand and grinding had exhausted me. After two more miles I cried uncle, reasoning that it was the first day out and I needed to save some energy for the coming days – ones with longer miles and more elevation. I swallowed my pride and joined Bob in the support van.
The day started out on a well-packed wide dlrt road
We caught up with the group and arrived together at the Osiligilai Maasai Lodge where we were greeting by a line of Masai proffering cold drinks and a welcoming song. Although everyone was pretty well spent by the day’s heat and challenging track, we soon reconvened for an afternoon immersion in the history and ways of the Masai. Our guide Joseph took us on a walking tour through the savannah, explaining the myriad uses of donkey dung, small plants, and the ubiquitous acacia trees. We visited a small Masai homestead and learned of the importance of cattle in securing a wife and elevating one’s status in the community. Then we were off to the spear throwing, where Masai warriors recounted in words and action the traditional method of encircling and killing a lion that had preyed on the tribe’s prized cows.
Finally, as the snow moon rose over Mount Meru, we climbed a small hill to join the Masai in song and dance – a joyous and communal end to an extraordinary day in Tanzania.
Our arrival at the the Osiligilai Maasai Lodge was celebrated with a cold drink and a little singing and dancing
The whistling thorn acacia is characterized by the presence of large hollow bulbs at the base of the spines. The bulbs are occupied by various species of symbiotic ants, who make small entry/exit holes in the bulbs - it is the whistling noise produced by wind blowing through these holes that give the tree it’s common name.
Fencing constructed from the whistling thorn trees is used to enclose cattle pens, securing the cows during the night. Wood from the trees is also used to make tool handles
Masa warriors assembling for the "lion hunt" Most of the lions in the area have been re-located to game preserves, and one no longer needs to have killed a lion to achieve the status of Masai warrior. However, the tradition of spear throwing continues, using a wooden lion facsimile as a target.
Gathering himself for the "kill." The traditions and rules for killing predatory lions were quite complex, hoping to ensure the death of the lion, and not the Masai
Susan CarpenterTo Scott AndersonI'm actually in DC for my France visa interview - hope all goes well in this new world order. It'd be great to talk, maybe sometime this weekend. Reply to this comment 1 month ago
