November 11, 2014
Taroko Gorge
As good as it gets
This was a terrific day, from sunrise to sunset. It began with a great breakfast at Delise's house, and a more extended chance to visit with her over our meal. We really enjoyed our stay here. It made me sorry that we hadn't built in the flexibility to stay here another night and explore more of the county. If we ever manage to come back this way we will surely stop in here again.
We were delighted to step out the door and find the skies blue - they cleared up sometime during breakfast and packing for departure. It is warm and beautiful - like stepping out into a different country. Our spirits were high as we rode the short distance to the Luodong train station for our ride down the coast to Xincheng Station at the foot of Taroko Gorge.
I've worried about this short train linkage for some time, so it is a bit of a relief to have it come so early in the tour so I can put it behind me. We had our tickets already and had read that folding bikes are allowed on all trains in Taiwan but you never know what might go wrong. In fact we did experience a few tense moments at the gate and were told that we couldn't take them on with us, even though I pointed to our bags and pantomimed folding and wrapping them. Finally the agent roped in a passerby to translate for her. As it turned out, we have to fold the bikes and put them in a bag. Oh, well OK then!
Our bags, real cheapos, are little more than mattress covers. They did the trick and made us legal, but they're pretty awkward to handle. It was a good thing we had allowed plenty of time before departure. On boarding, we were startled to find ourselves in the middle of a small cycling club from Taipei on an outing, also to Taroko Gorge. They very helpfully lent a hand to help us get our bikes and gear on board and down to the baggage car, and then pulled everyone together for. Round of picture taking. Amazing - any excuse for a group photo.
This stretch of coast is famously dramatic, but we didn't see much from the train as it happened. Most of the journey was spent in dark, seemingly endless tunnels. Soon we arrived at Xincheng and disembarked along with all the other cyclists, delighted to see blue skies here as well. What luck, to have good weather on what will probably be the most spectacular ride of the tour.
Leaving the station was another unexpected challenge - we were arrested by a seemingly endless stream of boarders passing the other way, tieing up both the entrance and exit gates. We thought we would never escape, as one bus after another drove up and discharged yet another 50 or so new travelers.
Taroko Gorge is almost unbelievable - really one of the wonders of the world. Highway 8, the middle cross island highway, goes straight up the gorge (well, not straight of course - it's a continuous series of tight bends, tunnels, and blind curves overlooking precipitous drops), eventually topping out at about 9000'. We didn't have the time, and probably not the legs either, to go to the top; we stopped after about 20 miles at Tianxiang and then headed back down for the night. The miles we did see though we're astonishing in every way.
We're staying tonight at Taroko Village, one of the few places with lodging in the gorge. It's a beautiful place, high up a very steep side road away from the highway. Very quiet and peaceful, except for the constant chorus of tree frogs that ends our day for us.
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Today's ride: 40 miles (64 km)
Total: 170 miles (274 km)
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