To Skipton: blown away from the Yorkshire Dales

August 9, 2024

We face a dry but very windy day for our ride to Skipton, the last stage in our large loop through the north that began nearly six weeks ago. Now that it’s coming to its conclusion, let’s look back and admire our accomplishment:

Not a bad way to spend the last six weeks. Practically an entire tour all by itself.

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Rich FrasierThat's a lot of up'n'down, there!!
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3 months ago

It’s been six weeks spent hopping from one exceptional spot after another, filled with gorgeous rides and hikes - but a very challenging one. It pushed the limits of what these old bodies and minds think of as fun, and we’re ready to move on to easier conditions. I do hope we can come back to northern England again some year, but if we do we’ll take a different approach, picking a few bases for longer term stays and move between them primarily by train.

We’re not quite done with the north yet though - or rather it’s not quite done with us. We’ve still got these 20 miles down through Wharfedale to Skipton to get behind us. It doesn’t look too bad though - it’s a net downhill since we’re dropping alongside the Wharfe; and even though it’s quite windy, on the whole the wind looks like it should give us a boost. And the terrain doesn’t look too painful for a nice change, with no 15 percenters that we can see. Just a reasonably relaxed ride rolling along the hills beside the river, or so we imagine when we roll out of Grassington at 10:30.

The plan for the day: arrive in Skipton in time for a 1:00 lunchtime reservation we made at an Italian restaurant; check in at our lodging; take a walk along the canal up toward the castle woods and back; and then meet up with our new friends and saviors Barry and Claire at the Boat House at 6:30 for a proper visit.

Let’s just save some time here and note that the ride didn’t meet expectations. We did get the generally favorable headwinds we hoped for - and strong ones much of the way, which definitely helped - and it’s true that there were no killer climbs in the way. Look at that ride profile on the map below though: no single climb amounts to much all by itself, but when you lump it in with the other nine it definitely adds up. The road’s up and down the whole damn way. And even though we had a tail wind much of the way, at others it blew forcefully from the side or nearly head on. And actually, now that Rachael looks back at her track there was a 15% slope tucked in there.

I think if we rode this under different circumstances we’d have done a better job of it. For example, we blew right by Bolton Abbey with barely a sideways glance because we were just of the mindset to see the end of the road when we got there. And we could at least have stopped for a quick snap of the Hebden Suspension Bridge. And of course there was that restaurant reservation that we were trying to make; and as it was we were still fifteen minutes late. It was fine though, because it wasn’t a particularly good choice so the place was nearly empty when we arrived.

Great view from the top. It really is beautiful here.

Down. That’s Burnsal down there, which looks like it would have been worth a glance. At least I stopped for a pic or two.

Saint Wilfred’s Church, Burnsall. Actually, I wonder if Burnsall wouldn’t be worth a stopover. There’s lodging there, and it looks like a short walk straight up the fell behind it to the moors or an easy bike ride to Bolton Abbey and back.

The Barden Bridge makes a picturesque way to cross the Wharfe.

This isn’t Bolton Abbey, which is still a mile down the road. This is the priory, which at least got a quick stop from us.

And then there’s this thing we could have stopped for, but at least I slowed down to wave at it so Rachael could pick it up on her GoPro. Too bad that it’s not in focus enough to read the sign, because now we’ll never know what it is.

Video sound track: Swing, by Yasmin Williams

So we did a pretty poor job as tourists this morning, and we didn’t do any better when we reached Skipton. For awhile we both talked as though we really were going to take that walk along the canal that we planned, but after procrastinating for an hour or so we lost our opportunity because there wouldn’t be time before our date at the Boat House. When we walked over to it though it was with the thought that we might walk up the canal a ways afterwards, because it still stays light so late.

We did at least have time for a quick glance at the canal when we arrived at the Boat House five minutes early - just long enough to admire the setting and see how nice Skipton likely is if we took the time to look around.

Leaning against the Boat House, soaking up the rays at the end of the day and watching the world drift by.

And one more. It really does look like a delightful place for a stroll. Even me and my creaky knees could do it.

But it didn’t happen afterwards though, because two hours and a couple of pints later we were still chattering away. A great visit, from a couple we hope to run into again. In an evening filled with great stories, we’ll remember best the amazing one from their honeymoon on Corfu 41 years ago. Thanks again, Barry and Claire! If we make it back to Skipton some year you’ll be the first to know.

Good times with good friends at the Boat House.

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Today's ride: 19 miles (31 km)
Total: 3,180 miles (5,118 km)

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