May 25, 2024
To Okehampton
An unexpected vision greets us when we enter the breakfast room and take our seats this morning: a clear blue sky to the west. I start to comment on it when Paul enters the room a few minutes later, but he instantly shushes us. Don’t scare it away, he cautions. Later, he’ll repeat to the ladies at the next table the story he told us the afternoon we arrived, of a freak weather event the day before that brought an intense downpour and hail - a river rushed down the street out front, and every passing car raised a wake that washed toward his house. We’re lucky we hadn’t arrived a day sooner!
And he continues on the same vein, telling of how horrible and dreary the weather was last year - nine straight months of rain, as he tells it. Hopefully it’s not the same story this year, but it’s too soon to tell. For today though we’re grateful for the timing - it’s a travel day for us, we don’t have a long or difficult ride ahead of us, and we can hope to arrive dry.
We’ll get an early start because checkout here is by ten; and with only twenty miles between us and Okehampton (pronounced oak-hampton, OK?), we’ve arranged an early check-in at the other end.
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First though, a quick detour through downtown to Tavistock’s small outdoor equipment store to pick up a hiking pole for myself. Were going to be traveling through some outstanding hiking country in the coming months, and even if I can’t go as far or as fast as Rachael I’d like more of a walking experience than I’m capable of now. Hopefully a pole will help, assuming I can find a folder that will fit on the back of the bike.
I do find the pole I need; but I’m not surprised that we don’t find the other impulse item we’re looking for, a new pair of bicycle gloves for Rachael. Pretty funny - after just bragging that we made it through nine months of Spain without losing anything we’re only a few days into the UK when one of Rachael’s gloves turns up missing. It disappeared sometime during the chaos of our arrival in town in the rain and our B&B. Not an auspicious start to our three months here. Hopefully my glasses or wallet isn’t the next thing to go AWOL.
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Finally we’re off, happy to see that the sky is starting to cloud over but is still promising. The ride begins with a steep lift up to the viaduct level - short and steep enough that neither of us thinks it’s worth straining a muscle over so we walk a chunk of it. Once up though we face a more civilized climb for the next four miles to the high point of the day. To my surprise because I hadn’t really noticed on the maps we’re reversing the last miles of my day ride yesterday - nice, because it ends up with Rachael getting her own look at Brent Tor and its dramatically sited church.
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Overall, it’s an excellent ride today. The break in the weather lasts us all the way to our destination, roads and pathways are quite bike-friendly, there’s plenty of interest along the way, there are only a few spots where we come to a 15% grade that pushes us out of our saddles, and we see many other cyclists and walkers out. It’s a day that makes us both glad we’ve come back to England again.
Except for that scary dog that chases me for a ways - but you’ll have to watch the video to see that narrow escape.
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Partway through the ride we pass through Lydford, a pretty village with enough to linger over that if I get the right day for it I might bike back to. From the information board beneath its castle: “Lydford Castle is a remarkably well-preserved medieval prison and courthouse, built in 1195 and later enlarged in 1238 by Richard, Earl of Cornwall. Lydford had been an important town since the Saxon period, when it was protected by defensive banks. Surrounding the older part of the village, these substantial earthworks are still visible. In the field to your left are also the remains of a Norman ringwork castle.”
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1 month ago
A bit further on I’m startled to be passed by a your boy pedaling like mad, quickly leaving me behind. His dad follows, but we catch up to them when they’re stopped looking over a stone wall. Others are gawking as well, so we stop and join them for our own look.
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A few miles on we come to another impressive span, the Meldon Viaduct. Both of these would be worth a trip back for a look from below.
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Video sound track: A Breath Away, by Aires Tango & Ralph Towner
We’re stying at the White Hart Hotel, a large place that’s a combination hotel and pub. It’s a JD Wetherspoon establishment, one of many throughout the country. It reminds me of a McMenamins property back in Oregon, if you’re familiar with those. Our first impression is a little frustrating as we try to figure out how to get our bikes into one of the six bike lockers out back. Its great that they have bike lockers obviously, but it’s a head-scratcher figuring out how to unlock them, and how to get the bikes inside (I have to fold mine) and then how to lock them again. I’ll have to take a photo of the lock one of these days to give you the idea.
Beyond that learning experience though, we’re quite happy with the place - in particular with our room itself, which is easily twice the size of where we’ve been crowded into for the last four nights. its got a large bed, a desk, two comfortable chairs, room to spread out in, and even a large tub that Rachael soon makes use of. We’re well conditioned to be appreciative.
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Today's ride: 20 miles (32 km)
Total: 1,724 miles (2,775 km)
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3 months ago
3 months ago
(Also: welcome back to our cold and rainy island! I hope that the long-delayed spring arrives before too long...)
3 months ago
And so far at least we have no complaints about the weather - we’ve gotten some breaks at the right time and are really enjoying our time here. Anxious to see your corner of the country later this summer.
3 months ago
https://allpoetry.com/Three-Ha'Pence-A-Foot
And here's a link to a recording told in more-or-less authentic style and accent:
https://youtu.be/RyzNep0NAhA
3 months ago