To Kirkby Stephen

July 29, 2024

The route I’ve mapped out for us for our ride to Kirkby Stephen is really short, only 13 pretty easy miles - ridiculously short really, especially considering that today’s weather is fair - dry, comfortable, not too windy. An embarassing effort, particularly when we look around the globe and see people sweltering in insufferable heat waves or enduring devastating fires who would trade places with us in a heartbeat. We should pay homage to our exceptional luck and put in more of an effort than this measly ride, so I look at the map and come up with a more roundabout route that brings us up to a much more respectable 20.

I present this idea to Rachael, who probably too quickly agrees it’s reasonable and gives it her blessing. Later though she’ll curse herself for trusting me and not looking at the route first before agreeing to it, and me for proposing it in the first place. After eight unpleasant and largely uphill miles on the too busy B6260 a loud, shocking profanity breaks the silence but there’s no one to take note of it but me and the sheep.

But that’s just the first eight miles. After that the climb eases off as we leave the unpleasant B6260 behind and lose all the traffic; and in another mile we’re over the crest and enjoying stunning views of Eden Valley and the surrounding fells. After a long coast toward the river there are some minor rises toward the end, but overall these last twelve miles are delightful. There’d be more photos but being in the doghouse already I choose not to worsen my standing with excessive camera stops. There’s video to complete the record, and besides I’m thinking I’ll bike back up here on one of our layover days here.

Leaving the Royal Oak Inn, we’re surprised by a red squirrel snooping around on the deck as we pack up. Its a lucky sighting, because the native red squirrels are an all but endangered species in England, because of habitat loss and losing out to the introduced greys. They’re only found now in Scotland and the north, and this is about as far south as they occur. And actually, I’m not sure about this one - with the bits of grey in his head and tail he could be a hybrid.

We have no photos at all from those first eight miles, but it’s just as well. Really, we’d both have been fine if the ride had started here, right after we crossed the crest.

I meant it when I said I didn’t stop often. This is another shot taken from the same spot.

So is this one, looking back behind us on the last mile’s gentle climb to the summit.

Also this one. She looks pretty impatient to me, so let’s start coasting.

Video sound track: Beeswing, by Richard Thompson

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Today's ride: 20 miles (32 km)
Total: 2,969 miles (4,778 km)

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