To Gillamoor/Blakey Ridge

July 8, 2024

We experienced many remarkable days in Britain two years ago, but our ride up Blakey Ridge in the North York Moors is probably the one that we’ve looked back on the most often. It was our first exposure to the moors and we were blown way by everything about it - the views, the sheep, and above all the heather.

Extraordinary. We should just cancel some reservations and stay here for a month.

It was always the plan that we would take this ride again, but it was only about a month ago that we looked at our itinerary and realized that we’d be near here on our wedding anniversary, our 36th this year. What a spectacular way to celebrate the fact that she’s put up with me for another year! We adjusted our schedule and lodging to put us here on the right day and to give ourselves the best shot at a successful ride by booking ourselves at a small country inn near the base of the ridge, and hoped for the best.

We got our wish, and after the past few days of unstable conditions we’ve been blessed with an ideal day today - light winds, partly sunny, warm, with only a minimal chance of rain until this evening. What a gift! We leave our B&B at ten, warmed by a farewell hug from our Polish host Monia. An easy nine miles later we pull up to Royal Oak Inn in tiny Gillamoor and leave off the panniers, something we’d cleared with them in advance.

The ride to Gillamoor was pleasant, if uneventful. We’re saving our film for later.

I’ve been reassuring Rachael that the climb up the ridge really isn’t that bad, but after what she’s seen of rides in Britain over the past six weeks she’s skeptical. And she’s got her point, because once we leave Gillamoor we’re dropping steeply down to the River Dove and then climbing up the other side. It nears 20% both ways, steep enough that we wouldn’t have cared for the experience much with the panniers dragging us down too. Definitely an anniversary buzzkill.

Once we climb our way out of that little hole though and are up on the ridge I’m proved right. It’s a steady climb for the next seven miles to the crown of the ridge but even though it’s front-loaded it isn’t bad at all. I doubt that we break 6% again until at the end when we’re recross the Dove on the climb back up to the hotel.

And the ride? It’s always a risk trying to reexperience a favorite time of the past, with so many ways it can be a disappointment the second time around - the place has changed, you’ve changed, or the place has gained a mythical aura in your memory to the point that it couldn’t hope to live up to what you remember.

This is the exception. It’s not as good as the first time. It’s better.

Blakey Ridge is on the other side of this trench created by the Dove. All we have to do is get there, just a short hop away.

On Blakey Ridge. We’re four days earlier this year, and the state of the heather is about the same this time.

The color is best lower on the climb, but it looks like it would explode all the way to the top if we were here a few weeks later. I can’t think of any reason we shouldn’t come again and test that theory out some autumn.

Rachael’s out ahead of me all the way to the summit, so she gets the first looks.

Nearing the summit, she’s above the bloom. Its still an okay ride though.

Bringing up the rear, stopping here and there. Here we’re looking down into Wesleydale, the depression to the west.

I wouldn’t have thought the experience could be better this time, but it is.

Conditions couldn’t be any better than these.

And a look off the east side, into Rosedale.

Rosedale again. If we’re lucky enough for a third pass some year I’d like to make a loop out of it and return through Rosedale.

I catch up with Rachael after she’s been to the summit and doubled back about an eighth of a mile. She’s fine with waiting for me to continue on for my own look, so I do. It’s a wonderful spot at the top with glorious 360 degree views. To the left the road drops 25% to Wesleydale; to the right it’s a similar plunge down to Rosedale; and straight ahead the road gradually drops along the crown of the ridge to Castleton. Really, it looks like it would be a reasonable traverse through to Castleton, even with panniers.

Castleton’s straight ahead another seven miles or so at the bottom of the ridge, and far out is the North Sea.

None of those is the plan though, of course. Doesn’t seem right to leave your partner stranded on our anniversary so I double back, pick her up, and we coast all the way back to our hotel. Except for that obnoxious climb up from the River Dove, that is. We don’t keep enough momentum to coast up the other side.

Back in the red zone, with still a ways to drop yet.

Video sound track: Just the Two of Us, by Grover Washington, Jr.

We’re back at the Royal Oak Inn by two, too early to check into our room yet; so we hang out in the dining hall for about an hour while we sift through photos and video and enjoy a refreshing beverage. After that we retreat to our room where we stay put until dinner. The meal is fine - the Royal Oak Inn has a good kitchen, as Paul told us this morning while he was sitting around in his bathrobe finishing his morning coffee. It’s where he and Monia like to drive over to from time to time for a change of scene.

While we enjoy our meals we also enjoy an extended conversation with the couple at the next table, up here from their home down in Sussex for the next four days. It’s another reminder of how appealing travel is in Britain in spite of the hills and weather. It’s a nearly daily experience that we have one or more interesting and pleasant conversations with someone. We really should make it back some year.

The view from our room at the Royal Oak Inn. A perfect day!

Oh, and one last thing: Happy Anniversary to Racpat, a couple we’re proud to share our anniversary with!

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Patrick O'HaraHappy Anniversary, Andersons! Here's to many more years of adventure and travel for you both! Your journal writing and photos have been part of my daily routine for years now!
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1 month ago

Today's ride: 30 miles (48 km)
Total: 2,604 miles (4,191 km)

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Steve Miller/GrampiesA very Happy Anniversary you two newlyweds. Our 57th will be celebrated just after our return home from our next trip, but an anniversary on the road adds an extra layer of special. What a gorgeous place to celebrate in. Wishing you many more years of fun, adventure and love.
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1 month ago

Gregory GarceauHappy Anniversary from The Feeshko and me. It's nice to see you had a memorable ride on a memorable day.
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1 month ago

Kathleen JonesAnother year together. Well done!
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1 month ago

Rachel and Patrick HugensThank you guys! Happy anniversary to you too. What a beautiful day to remember.
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1 month ago

Rich FrasierHappy anniversary, you two lovebirds! What a great way to celebrate!
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1 month ago

Bruce LellmanA great day for an anniversary! Cheers to you both.
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1 month ago

Scott AndersonTo Bruce LellmanWe were so lucky! The next day it poured all day.
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1 month ago

Scott AndersonTo Kathleen JonesCongrats to Rocky especially. She had much the harder job. I’m so lucky.
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1 month ago

Rachel and Patrick HugensJust checking your anniversary day...and truly it is a spectacular way to celebrate!!
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1 month ago

Scott AndersonTo Rachel and Patrick HugensIt really was. Maybe not the Rock of Gibraltar, but pretty special.
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1 month ago

Jacquie GaudetHappy Anniversary! What a fantastic way to celebrate!
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1 month ago

Polly LowWhat a great day -- and what great foresight to get married on one of the few non-rainy days of the summer!
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1 month ago

Scott AndersonTo Polly LowYes, we pride ourselves on our planning skills. This was a hard needle to thread through though, but we did it!
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1 month ago