March 16, 2024
To Benidorm
If we were in better condition or more ambitious, we might have biked all the way to Alicante today and earned a layover day. Were neither though at the moment, so we decided to break the 47 mile distance into two stages. Its only 17 miles to Benidorm, but it’s the obvious split point; so we’ve got a ridiculously short distance to cover today, possibly the shortest we’ll have in our entire tour of Spain this year.
Accordingly, we’re in no big rush to get out the door and don’t leave until nearly eleven, the latest check out time. The ride begins with the hardest part of the day as we work our way up from the coast through the ritzy neighborhood Rachael passed through on her hike yesterday. It’s not the easiest route west out of Calpe, but we’re avoiding for as long as possible merging onto N-332, the national highway that runs along the coast here.
We of course avoid significant highways like this in general, and the route I’ve come up with cuts our ride on this one down to only about four miles, the minimum possible unless we want to go way out of our way or leave the pavement and experiment with the sort of sand trap the Grampies seem to seek out. The issue is that headland that Rachael hiked yesterday, Morro de Toix. The only way past it is through the deep gap cut by a ravine that the highway follows.
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There’s no avoiding the highway, but I was a little apprehensive about it when I studied the map and saw that there was a pair of tunnels to be biked through. On the one hand, we love the right sort of tunnels because they spare us so much work; but we sometimes hate or fear the other kind, those with too much traffic or too little shoulder or too long and curved with insufficient light. It’s really amazing how quickly you can find yourself in pitch blackness on a bent unilluminated tunnel.
My fears were put to rest though by reading the Grampies account of their ride through here several weeks ago. They made it look like these were the good sort of tunnels - short, shouldered and straight. And they are, as we would soon find out for ourselves. And the N-332 itself proved to be just fine for the four miles we were on it, and full of bikes today.
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The highway’s been just fine, but as soon as there’s the option we leave it and head down to the waterfront. For the next five miles we hug the coast on the waterfront promenade along the bay of Altea, taking our time because it’s so relaxing and lovely, and because we’re in no hurry, and because we’re sharing it with walkers and runners and scooters and kids and strollers and even other bikes.
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It’s just turning one when we come to our turnoff to leave the coast and cut through the gap behind the next headland to Benidorm. It’s still about five miles away, but this looks like a much more attractive spot to stop for lunch. We finds our table, makes our choices, and enjoys a relaxing hour dining outdoors by the sea.
We’re really liking the rhythm of our days now, getting most of our ride in by midday and taking lunch as our main meal of the day. It took us a couple of tours here to figure this out, but we’re convinced now that this is really the best approach to taking meals in Spain. So much better than waiting until 9 at night for restaurants to finally open their doors, and even then find out you’re the only customer for the first hour.
An hour later we’re back on the bikes riding through neighborhoods for the last few miles to Benidorm, which I instantly take a disliking to as we bike into town. The east end is just a bit repulsive, with the promenade lined with bars filled with beefy, boisterous, bare-chested Brits spilling out into our path. It feels like we’re biking through about a mile of inebriated skinheads before we finally come to the small historic center of town and find our hotel. I’m not tempted to stop for a photo, but Rachael’s video gives a feel for it.
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Video sound track: Choro, by Vince Guaraldi and Bola Sete
So I’m not really keen on Benidorm, and don’t imagine we’ll stop here again. If we do though, or if you do, we can really recommend our lodging here, the Hotel Castillo. It’s a great place with a very welcoming staff. The desk agent gives us a very thorough orientation, totes our bikes down to the basement, and tells us a bit about the town. The eastern half is dominated by Brits he tells us, is always a zoo from the sounds of it, and is especially wild now because of Saint Patrick’s Day. The west end has a completely different character, he says.
We’re not tempted to go out and explore the town, so we stay in our room for a couple of hours before going out not long before sunset for pistachio cones, a stop at a bar to share a salad, and a walk along the waterfront to watch the sun go down and the hard-working beach crew collapse and stack beach chairs for the night. We like this other half of the city much better, and end the day feeling more charitable about Benidorm.
Oh, and one more thing. While we’re waiting out the afternoon we finally tackle the vexing question of how to get from Alicante to Águilas. The solution we finally come up with surprises and pleases us. We think you’ll approve too when you hear what the plan is.
Today's ride: 17 miles (27 km)
Total: 178 miles (286 km)
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Too bad they lost. :)
8 months ago
7 months ago