With two layover days here in Tiverton we plan to bike together on one of them and I’ll bike off on my own while Rachael takes a hike on the other. We seem to still be getting lucky with the weather so the order doesn’t matter. Rachael decides on a walk today, and we’ll take an out and back tomorrow on the hopefully tame ride I’ve picked out for us to share - not that any road around here is really all that easy.
We both plan on starting on the path along the Great Western Canal, probably the primary attraction in the area if you’re oriented to the outdoors. Rachael has mapped out the usual 12 miles for herself, a loop that starts along the canal and then doubles back to town on hopefully quiet backroads. When she’s back in town she’ll stop in at the Lidl to replenish our diminished snack inventory. In a last minute decision she reverses her route, realizing that she doesn’t want to carry peanut butter, bread, trail mix etc for the whole twelve miles.
We get started about ten, stuffed from a filling breakfast where we’re entertained by the hosts’ four year old son terrorizing the dining room in his stegasaurus sleeper.
We’re both starting our outings along the canal, so there’s a chance we’ll stumble across each other somewhere early on my ride. It doesn’t happen right away though. I start after Rachael, and by the time I make it up to the canal she’s already gone on ahead.
Tiverton’s a river town. The Exe runs through it, but so also does the Lowman shown here which merges into the Exe just south of here.
Built in the early 1800’s, the Great Western Canal was part of a never realized vision to connect Exeter and Bristol by canal. with the coming of the railroads the whole enterprise became obsolete, but the eleven mile section west of Tiverton remains as an outstanding recreational resource for the region used by walkers, bikers, fishermen and boaters. Like the ride between Exeter and Exmouth, it’s the sort of place you’d return to over and over if you lived here and never tire of it.
I had planned to leave it for the pavement after about three miles, but once here and finding what a delight it was I abandoned my ride plan stayed with it for ten.
On the canal now, at its western end in Tiverton. If we were here later into the season we could see this thing hauled up the canal by draft horses. It’s just for show now of course, but it’s one of the last ones still operating in the UK.
About once or twice a mile the canal path crosses beneath an arched overpass. There’s invariably a sign like this requesting bikes to take care, give priority or get off and walk through it.
It’s a good idea to dismount. The path narrows, visibility is often poor, the arch crowds the headroom, and it drops straight off to the canal. I imagine some unfortunate incidents have happened.
It’s pretty the whole way, a delightful place to walk or bike. Folks walking their dogs are a frequent sight, and they’re invariably courteous and give priority to bikers, stopping and keeping their dogs close by once they see a bike approaching. Its no place to race by though - everyone needs to do their part.
#249: Eurasian wren. This was a lucky sight, catching one in the open like this. I’ve seen a number of them by now, invariably as they’re disappearing into the greenery.
Serbian bellflower. In an odd coincidence, Jacquie Gaudet just posted her own bellflower photo from down in the French Pyrenees: https://www.cycleblaze.com/journals/pyreneesloop/aucazein-to-cierp-gaud/#53636_birecnykjbfovu9x3wa9tp9hcde.
Scott AndersonTo Jacquie GaudetThanks! I was pleased to discover this, but since then have found it’s very common here. I must see it every day, so it’s nice to know its name. Its always surprising to me to find out how common something is that I’ve never even noticed before. Reply to this comment 4 months ago
Scott FenwickYour bird photos constantly amaze me. Such great shots. And now you have captured the only one that I thought you might never get. https://www.cycleblaze.com/journals/tuscany/to-gambassi-terme/#46213_6n702z4xnyhhrcha6sptgoib5xx Reply to this comment 5 months ago
Scott AndersonTo Scott FenwickI was really pleased with this one. I especially like it when a bird poses in front of a nice background like this. Reply to this comment 5 months ago
Here comes Rocky, I see. She chastises me for not wearing my helmet, but I’m not going much faster than her. And if I tumble into the canal a helmet would just be a hindrance.
I’ve started paying more attention to the doves and pigeons since learning there’s a new one here I haven’t seen yet - the stock dove. This isn’t one - it’s just another run of the mill wood pigeon - but I liked the shot anyway.
I left the canal after Burlescombe and improvised my way back to town through the backroads because I was off my ride plan. Spoiled for choice again, though all ways seem quite lumpy.
In addition to the photos I came back with this video I took to capture one of the most remarkable bird songs I’ve ever heard. It went on for a full minute, constantly varying, before finally pausing for a few seconds before starting up again. Doesn’t this bird ever breathe? I couldn’t tell if it was coming from the reeds or trees just above it, and was frustrated by being unable to see it. Anyone know what this bird is?
I don’t make it back to the inn until nearly five, and by the time I arrive Rachael’s been worried about me. She’s afraid I’ll be late for dinner of course, but she’s also just concerned something’s gone wrong because I’ve been out so long and she can see how slowly I’ve been traveling. And she’s right - it takes me nearly six hours to cover 25 miles today, a time and distance a strong walker could match. That’s just how I travel when I’m on my own though - it’s virtually a hike with wheels. Stop here for five or ten minutes listening to a bird song, then over here for a dozen photos of a bird hoping one will come out well, and then over here to gradually close in on a buzzard shredding his pheasant with feathers flying out of his beak. That and the occasional 12-14% climb to overcome, and it all adds up.
An excellent if excessive meal at the Indian restaurant our host Chris recommended to us. We probably didn’t need all of the papadams, rice, and naan with sultanas and coconut to go with the mains.
Scott AndersonTo Diarmid HarrisHey, you knew it too! We don’t have this bird back in the states. What an astonishing call! Reply to this comment 5 months ago
Scott AndersonTo Stewart BradyCongratulations! I was sure someone would know. I identified it with the bird call matching function on Merlin. Reply to this comment 5 months ago
