In Shrewsbury: Haughmond Abbey

June 24, 2024

Photo dump day. Few words, but lots of pics to fill in the blanks. It’s another day where Rachael and I targeted the same destination, she on foot and I on wheels. Thanks to Rachael’s research we’re both off to see Haughmond Abbey, another striking ruin left to us courtesy of Henry VIII. I’m grateful for her spotting it on the map because I’d have missed it otherwise. All of these ruined abbeys are a wonderment, but Haughmond seems especially so. Established in the 12th century, it’s a sprawling place with many focal points that grip the imagination.

Rachael left first, following a branded walking route, the Shropshire Way Main Route, most of the way as it follows the Severn River and the overgrown Shrewsbury Canal. Parts of it were fine, but a fair stretch of it was narrow, overgrown and unpleasantly scratchy.

I started about half-hour later and followed the biking/walking path the whole way. Longer but paved most of the way, and very pleasant. I was impressed with how easy and serene it was to escape downtown and wind along the river.

Victoria Avenue, a pedestrianized riverside walkway lined with lime trees.

A female moorhen on the Old Shrewsbury Canal.

Rachael got to the abbey before me, went wild with her camera, and used up nearly all the good shots.

Rachael was gone by the time I arrived, but I swept up a few shots she missed.

The bay window of the abbot’s private residence. If you can’t be the king, it’s not bad to be an abbot instead.

A nice example of pareidolia (Pareidolia can cause people to interpret random images, or patterns of light and shadow, as faces). He’s got a wry expression, reflecting on the ruins surrounding him.

A more subdued look at the Chapter House.

St Michael the Archangel slaying a dragon.

St Catherine of Alexandria, with her wheel of martyrdom, exacting revenge on Emperor Maxentius. St John the Evangelist with eagle emblem.

Saint Peter, to the left of the processional entrance.

Rachael’s well on her way back by the time I finally leave the abbey. Her plan had been to walk from there up to the viewpoint atop nearby Haughmond Hill, but that trail was too overgrown and scratchy also so she just headed back to town, picking a better route this time.

I was thinking I’d bike up to the top of Haughmond Hill myself on one of its gravel paths but bikes weren’t permitted on them and I wasn’t feeling my inner scofflaw so I just circled the hill and headed back myself. On my way though I passed through a remarkable little village, Upton Magna, and took nearly as many shots there as at the nearby abbey itself.

The recently restored thousand year old St. Lucia Church is remarkable, but I was first struck by the collection of exceptional houses, which include what’s believed to be the oldest cruck-framed house in England:

A cruck frame is one where the structure of the building depends on two or more 'A-frames' which go from the top of the building down to the ground. These frames are usually constructed of curved timbers (the cruck blades) using the natural shape of a tree and in many cases the tree is sliced long-ways down the middle so that whatever the shape of the curve the two sides are symmetrical. The two beams are joined together at the top by a 'collar' or tie-beam.

Cruck Cottage, a ‘cruck-framed house’ from the Middle Ages. From tree ring dating it’s believed to be from 1269 AD, making it the oldest known surviving cruck-framed house in England.

The recently restored St. Lucia Church, dating back to the founding of the nearby abbey.

It’s hard to believe that the roof was falling in before the church was restored a decade ago.

So after that unexpected highlight I just biked home the way I came. The ride along the river was just as serendipitous this time through. A great day, and a nice way to end our time in southern England.

The quarry (the riverfront park just south of the city center), with St. Chad’s Church behind it.

One of the footbridges across the Severn.

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Today's ride: 17 miles (27 km)
Total: 2,358 miles (3,795 km)

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Graham FinchDebbie and I arrived in Shrewsbury on June 20th... it would have been srange (in a nice way) to have bumped into you!
We rode from there to Oswestry on the 21st.
I'm still jet-lagged and will be doing my blog here as and when. I don't know how you manage it all.
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4 months ago

Scott AndersonTo Graham FinchOoh, so close! Two days! I’m pretty sure we’d have recognized you two if we stumbled across you. How long are you in the U.K., and are you heading north before you head south?
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4 months ago

Graham FinchTo Scott AndersonWe arrived back in Taiwan on Thursday! We're still jet-lagged.

I'd not been tuned into your journal, otherwise I would have been in touch... we could easily have met up. I actually thought we would be longer in Wales, but we covered more miles than planned on a couple of days and got back to Lincoln (via train) sooner than expected. That worked out well, as I celebrated my birthday with family and friends on the 26th.
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4 months ago