In Settle: Malham Cove and Gordale Scar

August 6, 2024

The weather’s been a little unstable for the past week with intermittent and unpredictable wet and dry spells. The timing is working out really well for us so far though, in that we’ve been getting enough of a window on our travel days to fit our short distances in; and the best weather has come on our layover days, letting us get a good look at our latest surroundings on foot or two wheels.

Today is like that. It looks like it will stay dry all day, giving us both time to make it over to the other side of the high ground just to the east of us to Malham Cove. We’d never heard of this place and likely wouldn’t be going there today if it weren’t for the chance conversation we struck up with the walkers at the next table over dinner in Ingleton a few nights back. It was a lucky encounter because Malvern Cove is a really striking spot, well worth seeking out.

Rachael’s hike takes the most direct route there - up super-steep High Hill Lane to its crest and then picking up a walking path that continues straight east. The first part of this is the same as she walked last night, so this will be her second trip up High Hill Lane and back down again when she returns. And the rest of the walk is no picnic either, as she’ll drop off the far side down to Malvern Cove before climbing out again.

It’s great walk though, well worth the aching muscles and sore shins she’ll gripe about later. And Malham Cove is a brilliant destination:

Malham Cove is a huge curving amphitheatre shaped cliff formation of limestone rock. The vertical face of the cliff is about 260 feet high. The top of the cove is a large area of deeply eroded limestone pavement, of a strange pattern rarely seen in England. The majesty of Malham Cove looks out over the Village of Malham and has been attracting visitors for centuries.

And it’s busy - the footpath to the base of the amphitheater carries a steady stream of traffic even though it’s a weekday, with people walking to and from the nearby village where the car parking is. It’s always been an attraction, but maybe more so since it’s the filming site for a Harry Potter episode. Also, I was surprised to find that we’ve seen the place before in an episode of The Trip, the first of the delightful road trip/restaurant review miniseries with Steve Coogan and Rob Brydon. If you want a perspective from the limestone pavement above the amphitheater and to learn a bit about the geology of this place, watch the video:

And as usual, she brought back a gallery of shots along the way to share, along with a brief video. They pick up after she’s left too steep, too busy High Hill Lane.

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I’m taking a longer way to reach the cove, circling around the north side of this pile to the east. I’ll make a loop of it, returning to Settle by climbing over the same ridge Rachael walked back and forth across before dropping down High Hill Lane at the end. Plus, I’ve got an add on spur after Malham Cove, continuing east for another two miles to check out a second famous geologic formation, Gordale Scar.

My route starts by leaving town out the north end by passing through Market Square and then following the Ribble for about two miles, first on a bike path and then one a reasonably calm B road. It makes a relaxed start to the ride, giving me a chance to warm up a bit.

The first two miles paralleling the river make a comfortable start to the ride.

Too bad it’s so early in the day, because I’d like to check out this place in Stainforth. The name seems strange (craven means cowardly), unless you know that Craven is the historical name of this part of Yorkshire.

At Stainforth I leave the river and turn east, climbing sharply. I gain 450 feet in the next mile - it starts out at 17%, then a breather; then 16%, and another breather; and then a third bit at 13% before the road finally levels out. It’s a short respite though, because I almost immediately drop just as steeply into a notch crossing Tongue Gill, the stream I’ve been following on my climb so far. Before crossing the notch I look forward and notice two concerning features - first, the climb out the other side of the notch looks like it climbs as steeply as what I’ve done so far; and second, the road looks to be littered with a number of large black cattle. Hopefully there won’t be an issues getting past them.

He lost interest in me when he saw there’d be no handouts. As if I’d lug an apple up here.

Crossing Tongue Gill. It could be interesting climbing out the other side.

The livestock all walk ahead when I approach. I’m tired anyway so I’m happy to lag behind and give them space.

All except this gal, who got separated and was unhappy to find me in between her and her herd. We had a brief faceoff until I moved to one side and she passed by on the other.

Finally I’m more or less at the top and enjoy a couple of easier miles. The views are spectacular.

I get a nice view north to Pen-y-ghent, the third of the Yorkshire Three Peaks.

I take good advantage of the brief moments when the sun breaks through.

Looking back after my ascent. I think that’s Ingleborough ahead.

It’s mostly like this. Its a single track road, but I’ve practically got it to myself so it doesn’t matter that there’s so little room to pass.

A view east to Malham Tarn, another spot in the area that looks worth a look.

I finally reach the summit and am about to start the descent to the cove when I see on the Garmin that Rachael’s apparently been stopped for quite a while, just a quarter mile ahead of me. I’m afraid she might have a problem so I give a call and fortunately get through. She’s fine, and down on the trail into the cove already. Her marker is just stuck for some reason. She tells me where she is and will eat lunch in the cove, so we’ll meet up when I coast down.

More bikes going the other way! This makes it seem like I’m on a bike highway, but these three are the only ones I’ve seen since leaving the river.

It’s not long until I round the bend and see the rim of the cirque. Coming to it from above is a spectacular approach. As I descend I get great views straight into it. I stop at a few spots to look and to zoom in on the trail thinking I might spot Rachael, but I don’t.

Looking across the cove, which is hidden in the depression. That stretch of limestone pavement might be where Steve Coogan stood in the video. I’m sure the view must be enormous. If I come back some day I should look for the spot to walk out there.

Malham Cove. That’s the footpath into it below, filled with walkers. No bikes though, because they aren’t permitted.

When I get to the entrance to the footpath into the cove I’m disappointed but not surprised to see that bikes are prohibited. It seems perfectly reasonable given how narrow and heavily used the path is. It doesn’t make sense to me to either push the bike or lay it down somewhere just so I can get closer, when I have already gotten such a good view from above. I call Rachael to let her know the situation and continue on.

It’s about another mile to the entrance to Gordale Scar, another imposing limestone cliff formation. The entrance trail to this one is wider and doesn’t seem to prohibit bikes so I proceed - biking part of the time when the surface is reasonable, and walking when it’s covered with scree.

Gordale Scar is every bit as fantastic as I’d been expecting from what I’d read about it:

Like Malham Cove, this impressive natural feature was formed on the Middle Craven Fault. Unlike the Cove, however, the torrents of glacial meltwater that flowed over it cut down through faults in the rock. Successive Ice Ages have carved it deeper and deeper over thousands of years to create the deep gorge we see today. It was not formed by a giant cave collapsing as some have suggested. However, several smaller caves collapsing over the centuries probably contributed to the gorge being so deep.

I really like this spot - the walls look like a giant ladder.

This and Malham Cove are really must-see destinations if you’re in the region.

Gardale Scar and Malham Cove are barely a mile apart. It’s surprising how many fewer visitors are here compared to Malham Cove. Maybe it’s because Harry Potter didn’t come here.

So that’s the ride - the first half of it anyway. I’ve still got the same distance left to get back to Settle, including a long slog up over those hills Rachael hiked over. It’s some work but I have no complaints because the views are so impressive. Except for the final half mile down High Hill Lane anyway, which drops about 400 feet in just a half mile at a steady 17-20+%. Much too steep for enjoyment, but thank heavens I’m going this direction.

Impressive hills just about a linear mile from Settle.

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Patrick O'HaraNice ride, Scott. Doesn't look easy.
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4 months ago

Today's ride: 22 miles (35 km)
Total: 3,145 miles (5,061 km)

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Gregory GarceauThe landscapes are fantastic. I can only imagine how differently fantastic they'd be in Autumn, Winter, and Spring. Please don't leave the U.K. for at least nine months so you can show me.
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4 months ago

Scott AndersonTo Gregory GarceauHmm. We’ll have to think about that and get back to you. Remember though that this is the warm, dry, light season.
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4 months ago