In Saintes-Maries: a windy roundabout

October 16, 2024

As expected, a near gale-force wind blew in from the southeast during the middle of the night last night and persisted unabated all day today. Rachael went out for a walk along the waterfront and toward the lighthouse at the end of the jetty this morning but didn’t really enjoy being battered by the wind and abraded by the sand blowing up from the beach and came back after a just a few miles, deciding today was as good a time as any to take a day off and read a good book.

I went out a couple of times though, first on a neighborhood walk before lunch and then on the bike later in the afternoon. I might have sat out the day myself, but I’m still holding out hope for another new bird or two before we leave the Camargue.

The morning walk was fine, once I turned around and headed back toward town with the wind at my back. Before that though I walked east along the shore for about a mile, and by the time I turned back the windward side of my face was feeling chafed from the sand.

Windy today, varying between 25 and 30 mph all day long.

Looking back toward town. This, like every other photo I took today, was a challenge trying to get a focused shot because the wind was blowing so hard.

Many birds are out even in this wind, but there’s little diversity. Its mostly flamingos and gulls, with a few egrets and herons thrown in.

Here’s some variety anyway. Hundreds of black-headed gulls and one yellow-leg.

After lunch and the usual post-meal break I went out again, this time on the bike. I only had the vague plan that I’d bike back the way we came into town the day before yesterday - back to that spot where I saw the curlew sandpipers to see if I could get a better shot. First though I head west out of town for a mile or two, just because. And I’m pretty sure I’m looking at a new species or two this way when I come to a lagoon covered with birds including what looks like a lot of small waders. Unfortunately I have no idea what anything smaller than an egret is because they’re all so far out and there is no way to get closer. Quite frustrating, because this looks like probably the best birding spot close into town.

After that I circle back east above town and then backtrack our route of two days ago to the curlew sandpiper spot. When I get there those same two flamingos are still hanging around close to shore but that’s it. Maybe the 30 mph winds are driving all the little guys under covers, or maybe I was just lucky yesterday..

Another traditional style thatched roof house. I’ve seen several of them close into town, but I think they’re all modern constructions.

The avocets don’t seem to mind the wind, although I see that nearly all of them are pointed with their beaks away from it.

Just past that though I come to an unpaved spur I decide to take a chance on. It veers away to the northeast from the highway, pretty much in to the middle of nothing. There’s plenty of open water around, so it feels like a promising spot to snoop around. It doesn’t turn out that way though, with scarcely a bird in sight other than the occasional flamingo or egret.

It’s a good riding surface though - hard-packed clay or sand that makes for a reasonably comfortable ride. I resolve to go back later and stare at the map to see where it ultimately goes, thinking that if the forecast is wrong and tomorrow’s weather is better than expected I might come back here again as part of a longer ride.

I ride it for about three miles, lured on around one more bend in the road after another because it’s still staying close to the water. Nothing shows up though until right as I’m about to turn around because I’m running out of day. Now though, there’s another few flamingos ahead - and in the dim light I think I can just make out something small scurrying around their feet. I zoom in, hold the camera as still as I can as I take about a dozen shots in the hopes that one of them will be clear and definitive enough to identify later.

And I’m in luck. I got my shot, and I got my new bird - a common ringed plover, and my third lifer in as many days. Bird by bird, I’m inching my way toward 300.

Quite a nice riding surface, really. I could continue on this for a long ways if I had the time.

Every now and then the sun breaks through the clouds briefly to brighten thing up.

There’s nothing new nearby yet, but I do see a larger bird well off up a side channel. A curlew, the first since back in the Yorkshire Dales.

Still working my way north. I’ll turn back when I come to the upper end of the lagoon.

#284: Common ringed plover. What cute little guys! They’d make a good plush toy.

It’s well past six when I come to the end of the lagoon and turn back toward town. It’s only five miles away, but sundown is before seven now and there won’t be anything to light up this lonely road once it’s down so I pedal as hard as I can, given the fact that I’m biking into the wind again. As I bike I keep a close eye on the road surface, thinking how much I won’t like it if I flatten out here and have to walk back in the dark. I’m in luck though and pull up at the hotel at maybe 6:45. Plenty of time.

Back in the room I feast on the large wedge of cantal cheese nd large bag of mixed fruit and nuts Rachael picked up at the store for me, and then we spend the rest of the evening and all night long listening to the wind howl, as it has all day long.

Not dark yet, but I should probably quit pushing my luck like this.

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Today's ride: 16 miles (26 km)
Total: 4,261 miles (6,857 km)

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