In Saint-Remy: to Châteaurenard

September 28, 2024

What a relief it is to have a semi-normal day again! No trains, no fiascos, no near-catastrophes. Just a normal, pleasant sunny day with some modest exercise as we work our way back to full health, plus an excellent lunch and a few nice surprises. Looking back now, I wish we’d given up on the north and headed south a few weeks earlier.

And in a nice bonus, I’ve got all this time freed up. There’s not that much that needs to be said about days like these, so I don’t need to write an extensive post so we don’t forget any essential details we’ll enjoy laughing about years from now. A few quick notes and some pics will do.

Rachael’s plan for the day is to take a short hike into the small rocky formation just south of town, returning in time to meet me for our lunch reservation at La Roma Cafe. Once she gets outside though she decides it’s too chilly and windy for that and instead walks around town, taking in a few errands. Among them is a trip to a bike store where she picks up some new warm gloves for ones she either failed to pack at the start of the tour or were lost somewhere along the way way back in Spain. And while she’s there the picks up a handlebar mount for her cellphone, since for some reason she’s tired of us stumbling our way through navigating when we need a route that’s not on the Garmin. Also she notes that they have a nice collection of bike jerseys I might be interested in, which she’ll tell me about later.

On her way back to the room she stumbles across a small parade and is thoughtful enough to video so we can all enjoy it. Later, too late to be useful to us, we’ll learn that this is the weekend of the Journées du Revivre: these days that follow the votive festivities of Saint Rémy de Provence are an opportunity to discover or rediscover the life of our elders through costumes, old trades, folklore, gastronomy but also to perpetuate the spirit of celebration and solidarity that has animated our villages for generations on the occasion of these traditional festivities.

For myself, I’ve mapped out an easy loop north to Châteaurenard, which I’ll later find is the same route the Classens took after we met up with them yesterday but in the reverse direction. It’s a pleasant loop - on quiet lanes except when passing through Châteaurenard or other small villages along the way, and virtually flat. Just right for my recovering health situation.

After lunch at La Roma, a meal we enjoy enough that it’s a candidate for a second visit tomorrow, we walk together to the bike store to look at shirts. I don’t really care for any of them, but on the way back we also stopp in at the nearby Trek store but didn’t like any of theirs either. The walk wasn’t a bust though because right next door is an outdoor equipment store where I found a street shirt to replace one I apparently left behind somewhere about two weeks ago.

After that, we returned to the room and loafed for the rest of the day. If we were better tourists we would have gone out later to see the festivities - there’s a carnival, and a stage has been set up for a dance band, and probably other great stuff we could have seen and shown if we knew what was happening this weekend. But we didn’t know, didn’t go, and were quite happy with the day anyway.

I was surprised to see these Camargue cattle this far north, but I’ve since learned that this flat area, part of the sprawling Rhone Delta, is also considered part of the Camargue.

We’re in the Camargue! Good to know, after all this time.

I follow this stack of plant starts for about a quarter mile until it finally turns off. It’s only moving about 8-9 mph and I could pass at any time, but it’s a nice morning and I’m in no hurry.

The two remaining of the original four of Châteaurenard Castle stand high above the town.

The Church of Saint Denys, Châteaurenard.

I’d like to have gotten up to the castle as much for the views as anything, but I couldn’t find the paved route to the top that allegedly exists and didn’t really need to be doing much climbing yet anyway. This is good enough.

Looking northwest to the small Montagnette range at the confluence of the Durance and Rhone.

Nearing Saint-Remy. I wonder if they were participants in the festivities Rachael observed.

Strangely enough I can’t find any information about this tower at the entrance to Saint-Remy, but I think it’s a minoterie (flour mill).

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Today's ride: 21 miles (34 km)
Total: 3,847 miles (6,191 km)

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Carolyn van HoeveSo glad to read about your relaxing day, the sunny weather and improving health!
We’re on our way to Camprodon having more or less followed your trail from Uncastillo. It’s a truly remarkable landscape that seems impossible to capture in a photo. Every day impossibly more spectacular than the previous. We’ve thankfully only had one day of rain in the last couple of weeks and lately those amazing blue skies you had.
So thanks again for lighting the way!
In another 3 days we’ll be crossing back into France into Ceret & Collioure. It will be sad to leave this behind us.
Hope your recovery continues well and no more dramas!
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2 months ago

Scott AndersonTo Carolyn van HoeveYou’ve made it down to Camprodon! Congratulations! I’m glad it’s worked out well for you and you’ve gotten such good weather. I’m sure enjoy both Ceret and Coullioure when you get there too. We’re also going to each of them on our way to Barcelona and will be about a month behind you.
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2 months ago