In Palencia (a photo gallery)

May 8, 2024 to May 9, 2024

I think Palencia is a terrific place, if you’re just here to see the town anyway. Like Valladolid, Palencia is a provincial capital and is stuffed with fine monuments and elegant homes and mansions. It’s much smaller though - with its population of 80,000 it’s only a fifth of Valladolid’s size and feels more like a town than a city. The historical/cultural center is modestly sized, perhaps a half mile across, and is easily explored even if you have knee problems.

I went out for a look around the evening we arrived, and then got a second look on the following day when Rachael and I went out for lunch - once again, finding a shuttered restaurant that Google promised would be open today. This time at least we did better with our fall-back selection and got a more suitable, substantial meal - although it must be said that after nearly three months in Spain we’re both ready to move on to a different cuisine.

The photos are a dump from both days, and a collection of the usual urban subjects. Palencia definitely has a different flair though, with its heritage religious and civic architecture blending in with fine secular buildings, many in the art nouveau style. Plus, it’s a fine city for urban parks, claiming to offer its inhabitants more green space per person than any other city in Spain.

Wednesday

The south face of the enormous provincial palace, the seat of government for the province.

The provincial palace was created in the early 1900’s, along with number of Palencia’s other landmark buildings.

Major Principal, perhaps the most important street in the central city.

Almost every building along the heart of Major Principal is worth attention.

Along Major Principal. Many of the buildings are from the early 20th century, in the art nouveau style.

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The Villandrandro Building. “Designed between 1910 and 1911 by the architect Jerónimo Arroyo, it is a clear example of floral Art Nouveau, with neo-Gothic elements. It was built under the patronage of the Viscountess of Villandrando to provide shelter and seclusion for orphan girls and train them to work as governesses.“

On the Plaza de la Inmaculada, facing the cathedral.

Even the storage units have a touch of class.

Thursday

On the Mayor Principal again. We saw this yesterday, but the light was different earlier in the day.

On Mayor Principal, approaching the ayuntamiento for no obvious reason.

The tourism office was originally Jerónimo Arroyo's Studio: “The Palencia architect Jerónimo Arroyo built his studio and the offices of the Arroyo-Gallego company on the Calle Mayor at the beginning of the 20th century”. This architect designed the provincial palace and other important modernist buildings in the city.

“ The building's façade is Art Nouveau, with magnificent stained glass windows that represent three of the major arts: painting, music and architecture.They were made by the Paris-based company Mauméjean, one of the world's leading manufacturers of artistic stained glass. Founded in 1860, it was a purveyor to the Royal household.” I was sorry the tourism office was closed for lunch. I’d love to have seen the interior.

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Suzanne GibsonI can empathize with your need for a change in cuisine! After three months of Spanish restaurant fare, a change of diet and eating hours will certainly be welcome.
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6 months ago

Suzanne GibsonThe best meal we had was when we met you in Olivenza. The fish was terrific.
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6 months ago

Scott AndersonTo Suzanne GibsonYes, but I suspect we’ll be ready for a change from full English breakfasts and pub food by the time we sail for the continent.
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6 months ago

Scott AndersonTo Suzanne GibsonI know that was a hard day on both of you but I like thinking back on it with us sitting around the lounge that evening talking through the details of picking up your car.
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6 months ago