In Llançà: La Selva lunch run

November 2, 2024

After Rocky’s rigorous 12.5 mile rise into the Rodes Range she’s ready for a relatively restful 12.5 mile ramble. (Pretty good! That’s basically a 50% rate on the R-words in that sentence! Say that one three times out loud before continuing on. We’ll wait.)

So we’ll get to her walk soon, but while you’re untwisting your tongue let’s go back for another batch of photos from yesterday that got stuck on my phone again. Toward the end of the day yesterday we walked out to that small knoll at the end of the harbor, thinking we might see the sunset. We weren’t alone. Looking ahead we could see folks up there milling around already, and walking the same direction with us were others - oldsters, youngsters, kids in strollers, the works - making their way to the top. It felt like we were taking part in the local end-of-day ritual, like joining the passeggiata in Italy.

It was very pleasant. It was still comfortably warm when we started and comfortably cool when we returned. The views from the top were inspiring, some crag-martins were cavorting around the cliffs below us, we saw what’s claimed to be the largest mural in the world, and on the way down we saw a beautiful calico cat that slunk into a sheltered hole in the brush before Rachael could approach her because she (the cat, not Rachael) got spooked by an approaching dog.

We did not however see much of a sunset. Too bad, but we’re here for two more nights so maybe we’ll try again.

The view east across Llançà‘s small bay, in the direction of Portbou.

And to the west, toward El Port de la Selva.

Feeling daring, Rocky approaches the end of the point for a better view of that breakwater. Unfortunately I didn’t capture any of the martins flitting in and out of that chasm below.

This breakwater is doubling as a work of art. The breakwater was built after a storm badly damaged the port in 2008. Five years later the town commissioned muralist Charles Bros to create Banc de Peix (Bank of Fish), which they claim is the largest mural in the world.

I have just the hike for Rachael - an out and back along the coastal trail to El Port de la Silva. It’s the right distance, and from the section I saw yesterday it looks like it must be an easy, safe walk along the water. As a sweetener, I propose that we meet at the other end for lunch since the ride I have in mind includes a visit to la Silva also. We check out the restaurant scene there, pick a winner and make a reservation, and she leaves around 10:30, reminding me not to be late.

I’m not worried about time because it’s an easy six mile bike ride. I take my time to finish the day’s post and an hour later I finally start off myself. I just rode these miles yesterday so I don’t stop much but a few spots catch my eye this morning.

Looking up the steep slope of the Rodes mountains.

It’s hard to see here, but I think there are rows of vineyards running well over half way up that slope.

And in the flats below of course, I’m surrounded by olives.

Open windows. No shutters here to get locked shut by encroaching vines.

Ballet dancer with arch. Is there a name for this position?

I’ve had my eye on Rachael’s position as I bike, thinking I might be able to spot her from the road when I catch up to her. When I do catch up though I see that she’s a few hundred yards away, coming my direction on a side lane I hadn’t noticed. I bike down it and stop to position myself for a shot of her when she rounds the corner, thinking I’ll surprise her.

It doesn’t take her long. She’s been watching for me also, and looks up from her Garmin almost as soon as she rounds the corner. Hi, Rocky!

So since she’s here, let’s interrupt my day to look at hers. The coast trail is the excellent walk I’d hoped for her and she’s having a wonderful time enjoying the fabulous scenery and the others sharing the trail with her - but one that would have been improved with a well-placed outhouse along the way.

We chat for several minutes and then she resumes her walk, reminding me again as she leaves to not be late for lunch because she has to go to the bathroom.

I’m not worried about being late, so I can spare a few minutes to go around the bend to check out the small lighthouse at the end of the point, which I recognize from having looked down on it from yesterday’s climb.

Looking west to El Port de la Selva and Cap Creus.

The view back toward Llançà across the Aranella Lighthouse.

I time it perfectly and arrive at the edge of town just as Rachael walks up. We check out the restaurant Rachael made a booking at, but it is totally empty save for a lone staff member visible inside; and the posted menu doesn’t inspire me either so I suggest we check out the place next door where the outside area is packed and lively. The menu looks much better there and there’s an empty table just waiting for us to claim, so I lock up the bike and we grab our seats. Rachael has sea bass, I have a cute, fuzzy sheep, we split a salad, and in the background is the sound of a dance band warming up on the square.

La Selva is a much livelier spot than Llançà. Our table is on the other side of that crowd somewhere.

Lunch is fine, and when it’s done Rachael dashes inside for one last shot at a loo before she heads for home. I’m in no hurry, so I spend some time exploring the waterfront before starting back myself. It’s an attractive spot alright, but I cut my plans short (which included about another ten miles checking out side roads ) because the sky looks unexpectedly menacing. The sunny afternoon we hoped for now looks like we could even see a thunderstorm before long, so I cut my ride short and just head back, arriving back in Llançà just a few minutes before Rachael. Looking up toward where the monastery must be behind the clouds, I realize how lucky we were to have gone up there yesterday instead.

So I don’t see all that I’d thought I might her in La Selva, which is fine. One way or another, I imagine I’ll be back this way again tomorrow. In the meantime, here are a few pics from town. Feel feee to provide your own captions.

Red: hike; blue: bike.

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Today's ride: 14 miles (23 km)
Total: 4,584 miles (7,377 km)

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