In Hexham: the roads to the north

July 23, 2024

Part of the reason we’ve booked ourselves in Hexham for three nights is that it’s near the famous Hadrian’s Wall. Even though we’re following the Hadrian’s Wall Cycle Route through here we haven’t seen the wall yet because it’s just off to the north in the hills. We figured if we had a couple of days here we’d use at least one to hike or cycle north to see a section of it. The weather’s dry and promising today so that’s Rachael’s plan. She maps out a walking route for herself that heads north across the Tyne and into the hills with Brunton Turret as her goal.

It doesn’t work out quite as she’d hoped though. First, one negative about Hexham is that it’s unpleasant trying to get across the Tyne from here by going north. There’s bad congestion made worse at the moment by construction, and junctions that could be made safer with crosswalks or lights or more patient drivers. After that though her walk is fine for the next several miles as she climbs up a series of quiet lanes, finally coming to the Hadrian’s wall path.

Unfortunately, the section of the wall she’s come to looks like it disappeared centuries ago, leaving no trace that she can see. And the trail’s a mucky mess, so she backtracks to the nearest road - the B6318, which quickly proves too narrow and busy for walking comfort so she abandons it at the first lane she comes to and changes her goal - instead of walking to Brunton’s Turret she walks toward the village of Wall - which isn’t on the wall either, but has the right sound to it.

And then walks back. Really, I think Rachael’s going to have to bring her Wellingtons along next time because so many of her walks end up mire-blocked.

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Patrick O'HaraGreat shots....too bad about not seeing Hadrian's wall, though.
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4 months ago

Scott AndersonTo Patrick O'HaraOh, we’ll see it. Were staying right next to it for a few nights when we leave here.
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4 months ago

Patrick O'HaraTo Scott AndersonLooking forward to hearing about it. Those Roman history courses in Uni peaked my interest about this.
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4 months ago

I could have done roughly the same thing and probably have gotten to a surviving bit of the wall because I can cover more ground; but my imagination is piqued by discovering that Northumberland isn’t just an ancient kingdom - it’s also currently a large national park spanning the Scottish/English border. It starts further to the north also, but the nearest border is close enough for a day ride so I plot out a route that gets me there and back. It starts by biking west on Route 72 for a couple of miles to Worden, where there’s a much quieter crossing of the Tyne than the one in Hexham. It’s a pleasant ride on a paved pedestrianized trail the whole way, one I’ll enjoy coming back to at the end.

We’ll be coming this way in two days also when we cycle out of here, so I’ll save photos (and video!) of this path for then.

West of Hexham, propped against the wall separating the trail from the rail line.

Crossing the river, I go slightly off route when I see a church tower rising above the trees that looks more like a fortification than place of worship and decide to get a better look.

The Church of St. Michael and All Angels, at Worden.

Propped against the lychgate, a new word for me that I’m glad to discover after having seen many of these: a lychgate (from Old English līc, corpse) or resurrection gate is a covered gateway found at the entrance to a traditional English or English-style churchyard.

After that there’s a pleasant, gradual ascent along the North Tyne (which merges into the main channel just east of Worden) for about seven miles, until I cross the B6320 near Simonburn. Almost immediately after that the main job of the day begins - a steady climb for the next mile and a half up to a plateau near the border of the national park. It’s not bad as long as I’m on an unladen bike, but when I coast down on the return I pass a group of fully loaded travelers slowly pushing their way up.

Along the North Tyne, which is nearby but seldom seen from the road.

It doesn’t take long past Simonburn until the countryside opens up and I start getting the views.

Looking down on what must be the village of Wark on the North Tyne.

The views north are inspiring. I think the far ridge must be the high ground between the Tyne and Tweed watersheds.

Once up on the plateau it’s an open, rolling ride on a smooth single track until I decide to turn back.

I don’t go far into the National Park, because I’ve puttered around so much that I don’t want to risk being late for our dinner reservation. I cross a few easy rollers, but when I come to one that drops off steeply on the other side I’ve gotten my cue to turn back.

I need to go at least a short ways in just to say I’ve been there,

In Northumberland National Park. It’s a huge protected area and we’re just seeing a tiny corner of it.

Here’s the sign I’ve been watching for. Time to turn back.

Back on the bridge at Worden, looking upriver on the Tyne.

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Patrick O'HaraNice photos and looks to be a beautiful area.
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4 months ago

Today's ride: 33 miles (53 km)
Total: 2,874 miles (4,625 km)

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