In Collioure: Argelès-sur-Mer

October 28, 2024

Yesterday’s weather was excellent but none of our three layover days in Collioure look promising. Our plan is to just watch the weather and get out for whatever breaks come our way. This morning gives us one - overcast but dry until around one in the afternoon, so we both plan activities that will fit in before lunch. The clock fell back yesterday so we’ve gotten back an hour in the morning - plenty of time for the short out and back east to Saint-Cyprien, where I plan to circle its small inlet looking for waders.

When I bike down to the waterfront and look across the bay though, I decide that I should cruise along the waterfront first and get another look at Collioure under such different conditions than we enjoyed yesterday. It gives me a nice look back at the royal chateau and the waterfront from the opposite side of the bay.

From this side of the bay you get a better sense of the town’s layout. The royal chateau is on the left, the church is on the right, and in between there’s another whole section of the town tucked away.

The Royal Chateau. From the sea at least it looks absolutely impregnable.

The chateau has a typically deep and complicated history, with four different castles occupying this site going back to Roman times when Collioure was a major Roman port on this part of the coast. A look from this side gives a sense of this history, with the lowest tier built on schist and highest one reflecting Vauban’s enhancements after the French regained control of the city.

A look back at the heart of the city, wrapped around the bay.

From the west side of the bay I wrapped around the nose of the next headland for a look back across the schist outcrops.

And looked ahead to the next small cove. On foot you can continue around the point but it didn’t take long to decide I didn’t belong here with a bike.

From here I doubled back along the bay and then climbed up above the chateau for a look down.

I don’t think anyone’s coming up from this side.

Definitely has that Vauban vibe. And it’s nice that it’s labeled in case you’ve forgotten what we’re seeing here.

A look back to the west again. We’ve seen this view before although at sea level, but I like viewing it under such a different sky.

And then I drop down to explore that small neighborhood between the chateau and church we saw from the opposite side of the bay.

Finally, I leave town and start on my original plan, the loop to Saint-Cyprien and its small bay. It begins with a climb over those two ridges we crossed yesterday on the way here. They were annoying then, they’re annoying now, and they’ll undoubtedly be annoying again at the end of today’s ride.

After that though I drop to the shore at Argelès-sur-Mer and from there it’s a flat, easy cruise the rest of the way until I turn back.

A look back west at Collioure and its bay. A gloomy sky this morning.

I never make it to Saint-Cyprien though, and in fact don’t even make it out of Argelès-sur-Mer. Not long after I leave the waterfront it starts sprinkling, and then sprinkling harder, and then raining. Dammit, the weather apps lied again! I make a dash for the nearest shelter, a bus stop, and sit there to consider my options.

Several things are going through my head as I sit there waiting for improvements. One of course is the weather situation - is this just a passing fancy that I should wait out before continuing with my plan, or should I hope for a break and just turn back home. I consult the weather app for enlightenment, but get none. It’s still lying to my face insisting it’s not raining, so I decide it’s not to be trusted and make the decision to turn back.

The other thought is Rachael - or more accurately, the only key to our apartment, which she has. She’s out on her walk, and there’s no telling when she’ll be back without checking in with her so I give her a call. The news is good, in one sense at least - she doesn’t trust the weather either, and it didn’t take long for her to scale back her walk to a trip to the grocery store and bakery. She’ll be home by the time I arrive.

I don’t have to wait long - maybe another ten minutes - before the rain turns to showers, and then lighter showers, and then stops. I make my break, and I’m lucky enough that I make it back to the room two annoying climbs later and basically dry.

So that’s basically the day. Not long after I return we walk a block and a half to lunch, order the three course menu of the day and eat our fill while we watch the rains come down outside our window, and then I order a coffee after the dessert course of our menu arrives, stalling for time while we wait for a break in the rains that we can walk back to the room in. And back at the room we aren’t tempted to go out again as we listen to the intermittent cloudbursts hammering on the skylights up above. A good day to stay inside, do the laundry, read our books, and feel lucky that we don’t have to go anywhere.

Today's ride: 12 miles (19 km)
Total: 4,492 miles (7,229 km)

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