In Ávila: Gigantes y Cabezudos

May 2, 2024

Cabezudo. That’s my new word for the day. I’ve heard of gigantes (giants) before, but cabezudo (big head) is a new one to me.

I did some research last night, trying to learn something about the procession we just saw. It wasn’t what I assumed and doesn’t really have anything to do with May Day. The procession was just one event in a two week annual celebration honoring San Segundo, the patron saint of the city. You’ve doubtless heard of San Segunto before, but perhaps not under his Spanish name. This is Saint Secundus or Secundias, one of the seven Christian clerics sent by Peter and Paul in the first century AD to evangelize Spain. He is credited with evangelizing Ávila and serving as its first bishop.

Of more current interest though is the agenda for this week’s festivities. I misread the program and thought it said that there was another procession scheduled to leave the cathedral at 11 this morning so at about quarter before the hour I’m out on the plaza to check out the action. Sure enough, soon the church bells are chiming, cannons are firing, and theres the sound of drums and bombards (my other new word, thanks to Andrea) approaching in the distance. Soon an unlikely procession staggers down the street: a gaggle of Gigantes y Cabezudos plus a crocodile, followed by the musicians. They make a strange sight as they awkwardly twirl around, the giants occasionally bending low to stare into the startled face of some onlooker.

Before long though they make their way to the cathedral and the people inside unburden themselves of their costumes, line them up against the front wall of the cathedral, and then enter it along with the other members of the train.

One thing that impressed me was the diversity of the characters on display.

Gigantes, Cabuzedos, and a crocodile? What’s that about?

And then nothing happens on the plaza for the next hour, because I’ve misread the agenda. What’s actually happening is that there’s a major mass taking place inside the cathedral at 11, and the procession comes afterwards. At one point I peeked inside the side door and saw that the place was fully packed with the service in progress.

So with an hour to kill on my hands I walked around the neighborhood for a few minutes and then went back to the room to get warmed up again.

Not all members of the procession are believers apparently, or perhaps have other matters on their minds.

Outside the gate, a monument to Saint Teresa.

A small pottery market, for those who think I don’t take enough market shots.

There. Here’s another. Two’s enough for now.

And a well weathered window. That’s enough exploration. Its cold, and time to go back to the room.

At noon I’m back on the plaza again, which is packed now because mass is over and the masses have spilled out of the cathedral. The gigantes, cabezudos and the crocodile are suited up and strutting their stuff again; the dancers have arrived (but a different set than last night’s) and are atwirl to the music; and the Paso is emerging from the cathedral. Let the procession begin!

Xxx

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